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Old 03-15-2010, 01:04 AM   #2551
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Originally Posted by Black niNja View Post
Hi Uriah,

I finally got my Murnan Modified RBM3 .12 Modified and fully broken in. Wonder if u can assist me on the tuning tips for this great engine?
Thanks in advance.

not enough power..???
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Old 03-15-2010, 06:30 AM   #2552
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Hello Uriah, was wondering does the Novarossi 07601 conrod fit the Murnam RBM3 ?

Cheers
Les
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Old 03-15-2010, 07:06 AM   #2553
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Hello Uriah, was wondering does the Novarossi 07601 conrod fit the Murnam RBM3 ?

Cheers
Les
Hi. Yes, 07601 will fit the RBM3.
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Old 03-15-2010, 07:07 AM   #2554
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Originally Posted by Black niNja View Post
Hi Uriah,

I finally got my Murnan Modified RBM3 .12 Modified and fully broken in. Wonder if u can assist me on the tuning tips for this great engine?
Thanks in advance.
Here are some tips. I will post these on my website soon.

Tuning Tips for RBM3 Engine:

The RBM3 engine has been constructed with the finest materials, so break in will take longer than normal with the engine, but will reward you with very long life, and ease of tuning. For our pre-run in engines you will want to run approximately 10 more tanks of fuel to get the engine to race tune. This has been done at our facility, but it is just good practice to start the engine rich, and tune in instead of starting lean, and having to richen the engine for different climates. The different climates dramatically effect the needle settings for the engine. That is why the engines will come to you “very rich”.

The BASE needle settings for the RBM3 engine is as follows:
High Speed Needle = 6 Turns out
Low Speed Needle = 3 turns out
Mid Speed Needle = Flush with carb body


Approximate RACE tune needle settings:
High Speed Needle = 5 Turns out
Low Speed Needle = 2 ½ -3 turns out
Mid Speed Needle = Flush with carb body

These are typical settings for the following:

- 16% nitro
- Stock .3mm head shim
- C7TGF Novarossi Glowplug
- Novarossi 2652 exhaust with medium conical header.
- This is after the engine is fully run in, and will usually result in temperatures in the 270-300 F range. Those temperatures can be exceeded at your own risk.

The most important thing to protecting the engine is to visually inspect the glowplug after a run. If it is shiny, that means there is still enough lubrication, and no damage is occurring. If the glowplug is dry looking, or even worse burnt, and deformed the engine is too lean, and damage is most likely occurring to the engine. In this case you must richen the engine.

Usually it is very hard to damage the RBM3 engine if it has been properly run in. If you see any amount of smoke coming from the exhaust, you are probably OK.

You can use the following turbo glowplugs in the engine:
Novarossi/RB
C6TF
C7TF
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Old 03-15-2010, 07:57 AM   #2555
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Hi, Grinder, I have a MM 12 + 3SCT full ceramic (with Braking by you), the engine is running like new, I get like 6 minutes no more than 268º, but I need to get the correct Glow Plug (I am using C7TGF), the conditions we have in Panama, are the following:
Fuel 25% or 30% (this is the only we can get)
Temperature 32º C
Humidity 85% to 92%
Sea Level from 10m to 52m
I am using the Novarossi 2652 with medium conical.
The engine is tune High-speed Needle 4.5 turns
Low speed Needle 3.0 turns
Any recommendation, you can give me to improve performance.

Thanks

RCPANAMA
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Old 03-15-2010, 08:08 AM   #2556
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grinder View Post
Here are some tips. I will post these on my website soon.

Tuning Tips for RBM3 Engine:

The RBM3 engine has been constructed with the finest materials, so break in will take longer than normal with the engine, but will reward you with very long life, and ease of tuning. For our pre-run in engines you will want to run approximately 10 more tanks of fuel to get the engine to race tune. This has been done at our facility, but it is just good practice to start the engine rich, and tune in instead of starting lean, and having to richen the engine for different climates. The different climates dramatically effect the needle settings for the engine. That is why the engines will come to you “very rich”.

The BASE needle settings for the RBM3 engine is as follows:
High Speed Needle = 6 Turns out
Low Speed Needle = 3 turns out
Mid Speed Needle = Flush with carb body


Approximate RACE tune needle settings:
High Speed Needle = 5 Turns out
Low Speed Needle = 2 ½ -3 turns out
Mid Speed Needle = Flush with carb body

These are typical settings for the following:

- 16% nitro
- Stock .3mm head shim
- C7TGF Novarossi Glowplug
- Novarossi 2652 exhaust with medium conical header.
- This is after the engine is fully run in, and will usually result in temperatures in the 270-300 F range. Those temperatures can be exceeded at your own risk.

The most important thing to protecting the engine is to visually inspect the glowplug after a run. If it is shiny, that means there is still enough lubrication, and no damage is occurring. If the glowplug is dry looking, or even worse burnt, and deformed the engine is too lean, and damage is most likely occurring to the engine. In this case you must richen the engine.

Usually it is very hard to damage the RBM3 engine if it has been properly run in. If you see any amount of smoke coming from the exhaust, you are probably OK.

You can use the following turbo glowplugs in the engine:
Novarossi/RB
C6TF
C7TF
Hey man thanks a lot for ur prompt reply
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Old 03-15-2010, 07:08 PM   #2557
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grinder View Post
Here are some tips. I will post these on my website soon.

You can use the following turbo glowplugs in the engine:
Novarossi/RB
C6TF
C7TF
Uriah, what are you thoughts on O'Donnel Plugs? I switched to these (99T) and have used them in MM engines with great success. Cheaper, more consistent, better idle, longer lasting, brighter glow then the Nova plugs.
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Old 03-15-2010, 07:39 PM   #2558
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I thought 270-300 degrees was too high for these engines? maybe that myth is from way back (when we would break our engines in at idle) but i keep it under 250, what is the optimal temperature for a nitro engine these days? lol
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Old 03-16-2010, 09:06 PM   #2559
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Default RBM3 piston,liner into anMM RBR3?

Hi Muriah

Could you advise if I can use a MM RBM3 piston, liner, conrod in a MM RBR3 motor.

From visual inspection the motor body (RB v12) and the crankshaft look similar. The conrod also looks the same so if I put a RBM3 liner/rod/pison in the the RBR3 will this give me the M3 charateristics and power distribution.

Both engines have ceramic bearings and a similar carb as well.

Many thanks
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Old 03-17-2010, 04:25 AM   #2560
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Hi Uriah,

Novarossi had issues with their glow plugs in the past, but you told us that they should be fine from now onwards. How can we tell if the ones we have in our toolboxes ar OK, or we should dispose them?

Thanks a lot and best regards, Stefan
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Old 03-17-2010, 10:33 AM   #2561
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Originally Posted by rcpanama View Post
Hi, Grinder, I have a MM 12 + 3SCT full ceramic (with Braking by you), the engine is running like new, I get like 6 minutes no more than 268º, but I need to get the correct Glow Plug (I am using C7TGF), the conditions we have in Panama, are the following:
Fuel 25% or 30% (this is the only we can get)
Temperature 32º C
Humidity 85% to 92%
Sea Level from 10m to 52m
I am using the Novarossi 2652 with medium conical.
The engine is tune High-speed Needle 4.5 turns
Low speed Needle 3.0 turns
Any recommendation, you can give me to improve performance.

Thanks

RCPANAMA
How many head shims are you using?
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Old 03-17-2010, 10:35 AM   #2562
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Originally Posted by Novarossi View Post
Uriah, what are you thoughts on O'Donnel Plugs? I switched to these (99T) and have used them in MM engines with great success. Cheaper, more consistent, better idle, longer lasting, brighter glow then the Nova plugs.
The O'Donnel plugs are good. I know Barry Baker always ran them in all of the engines he got from me. He never had any problems.
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Old 03-17-2010, 10:49 AM   #2563
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Originally Posted by fdjizm View Post
I thought 270-300 degrees was too high for these engines? maybe that myth is from way back (when we would break our engines in at idle) but i keep it under 250, what is the optimal temperature for a nitro engine these days? lol
The RBM3 piston is very durable. These temps are not a problem. They would have been a problem in something like the LS3, or LL3. Those pistons were very easy to damage if you ran too lean. It is also very important to run a high quality fuel. Some fuels will eat an engine alive if you run it for an hour at 300+ no matter how durable of an engine it may be. Just as an example I have run the RBM3 at over 350+ degrees for an hour trying to melt it. I could not. It just slowed down, and when it shut down the engine was smoking. I let it cool off for about an hour, and it ran fine after that.

I always start break in with a couple of idle tanks.

There is no optimal temperature for these engines. Each one is different, and made if different materials. Fuels can make a 50 degree difference sometimes. The most important thing is to see some smoke from the exhaust. I actually lean my engines until they start to slow down, and then richen them until they are as fast as they will be. Only when it counts of course.
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Old 03-17-2010, 11:03 AM   #2564
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Originally Posted by Yeah Right! View Post
Hi Muriah

Could you advise if I can use a MM RBM3 piston, liner, conrod in a MM RBR3 motor.

From visual inspection the motor body (RB v12) and the crankshaft look similar. The conrod also looks the same so if I put a RBM3 liner/rod/pison in the the RBR3 will this give me the M3 charateristics and power distribution.

Both engines have ceramic bearings and a similar carb as well.

Many thanks
Yes, the parts are all interchangeable with eachother. The following engines parts are interchangeable. If you replace the parts with RBM3 parts, you will see RBM3 like performance.

RBM3
RBR3
RBT9
RBT9RB
RBT10
RBT10RC
Maxpower XXL3
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Old 03-17-2010, 11:05 AM   #2565
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Originally Posted by fulcrum2 View Post
Hi Uriah,

Novarossi had issues with their glow plugs in the past, but you told us that they should be fine from now onwards. How can we tell if the ones we have in our toolboxes ar OK, or we should dispose them?

Thanks a lot and best regards, Stefan
The plugs that I had that were bad were the C7TGF. The way to tell is that the plug was supposed to black with a gold tip. The bad ones were silver (regular) with a gold tip.
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