Go Tech Engines
#76
iSh that because they are a higher displacement plug ? Ma Ma Lishen ok
#77
From my experience. If you look at a turbo button with turbo plug installed, you can see the dome plus plug is a beautifull fit for good combustion.
Generally also Turbo plugs are hotter plugs and from my OS Vspec experience, I always had issues with the P3's. After about 1.5 to 2 litres the plug starts to lose performance and needs replacement. No ways you can tune it right.
What I do now is use standard buttons, I polish the chamber and make sure the plug makes a nice fit in the chamber without protruding or being in too deep. For me this works magic. Its like I am simulating the turbo button effect.
I cant see any noticeable difference to what I do to my standard heads versus the turbo head.
Mark share your experimentation with heads. I think you will agree you can get the same from a standard button if polished.
Generally also Turbo plugs are hotter plugs and from my OS Vspec experience, I always had issues with the P3's. After about 1.5 to 2 litres the plug starts to lose performance and needs replacement. No ways you can tune it right.
What I do now is use standard buttons, I polish the chamber and make sure the plug makes a nice fit in the chamber without protruding or being in too deep. For me this works magic. Its like I am simulating the turbo button effect.
I cant see any noticeable difference to what I do to my standard heads versus the turbo head.
Mark share your experimentation with heads. I think you will agree you can get the same from a standard button if polished.
#78
the main difference between Turbo and Standard button is the Geometric compression ratio. Turbo heads have a larger roundish dish. this has several effects
Hi all i have to edit my info , ive been corrected on the information, it was my impression that refraction is influenced by the shape of the dome.. its not so , what a larger dome does is allow for a larger charge to occour which is evenly transferred to the piston regardless of the shape ..
Woo hoo !
Hi all i have to edit my info , ive been corrected on the information, it was my impression that refraction is influenced by the shape of the dome.. its not so , what a larger dome does is allow for a larger charge to occour which is evenly transferred to the piston regardless of the shape ..
Woo hoo !
Last edited by MassiveMods; 05-08-2007 at 08:58 PM.
#80
it Should be a straight drop in but id recommend the Go Turbo button . I think the bore is the same but the clearence may be different ..
#81
The only real difference most experienced drivers have told me between std and turbo plugs is :
Turbo has definately a bit more power but that could be as Mark said from lower compression having more top end.
Dont have the hassle of thw washer falling of teh plug when making a quick change ina heat or final.
Only negative i have been told and experienced in a sense is with turbo plugs the tune seems to have a smaller window compared to std ,if that makes sense.They just seem to need a bit more precise tuning.
Turbo has definately a bit more power but that could be as Mark said from lower compression having more top end.
Dont have the hassle of thw washer falling of teh plug when making a quick change ina heat or final.
Only negative i have been told and experienced in a sense is with turbo plugs the tune seems to have a smaller window compared to std ,if that makes sense.They just seem to need a bit more precise tuning.
#82
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
Well guys, i use to hang out on the STS thread. but after 2 cranks breaking and not even 1 1/2 gal including break in. i have decided on the go tech motor. sounds like they can be a bugger to break in, but thats ok with me. i have placed a order on this motor.. GO Tech 7+2p Modified it may be to much motor for me but i am going to run on different size tracks all summer in the factory tracks. is there anything i should know about this motor befor i break it in?
also what can i expect for run time on this motor? and what type of 30% fuel should i use in this motor
Thanks
also what can i expect for run time on this motor? and what type of 30% fuel should i use in this motor
Thanks
Last edited by dido41; 05-07-2007 at 02:58 PM.
#83
Hey Dido
Youre gonna love this motor !
First thing is add shims, it prolly has .3 in it add .2 off the bat
Get you box charged ( youll need it )
1 Quart of fuel
Charged ignitor
Blow torch or heat gun
Chech carb idle gap is around 1 mm
Prime and ready your engine
Pre heat to about 150 F ( side of block under head )
Give it a good kick in the guts, should start first go provided its primed correcly
Bring revs up to 1/2 throttle
Tune HSN to clean 2 stroke ensure engine heats up to at least 180 to 220 F
Run 1 tank at 1/2 throttle
While still running fill tank and run the rest of the quart out on the road .
If its cold wrap alfoil round the head to keep heat in
it will take around 1 to 2 gallons for it to be fully run in but you can race it after 1 quart
If you want to run HB 444 ( thats our off road blend ) contact Brian Cooper on [email protected] they are our US manufacturer in NY
Fuel Type run in All castor 12% 20 % nitro
After that run it on HB 444 25% nitro if you wanna go higher add another .2 shim and run it on HB 444 30%
Cheers MM
Youre gonna love this motor !
First thing is add shims, it prolly has .3 in it add .2 off the bat
Get you box charged ( youll need it )
1 Quart of fuel
Charged ignitor
Blow torch or heat gun
Chech carb idle gap is around 1 mm
Prime and ready your engine
Pre heat to about 150 F ( side of block under head )
Give it a good kick in the guts, should start first go provided its primed correcly
Bring revs up to 1/2 throttle
Tune HSN to clean 2 stroke ensure engine heats up to at least 180 to 220 F
Run 1 tank at 1/2 throttle
While still running fill tank and run the rest of the quart out on the road .
If its cold wrap alfoil round the head to keep heat in
it will take around 1 to 2 gallons for it to be fully run in but you can race it after 1 quart
If you want to run HB 444 ( thats our off road blend ) contact Brian Cooper on [email protected] they are our US manufacturer in NY
Fuel Type run in All castor 12% 20 % nitro
After that run it on HB 444 25% nitro if you wanna go higher add another .2 shim and run it on HB 444 30%
Cheers MM
#84
Mark. I took my button and opened it up and gave it a bigger dome. Like the way a turbo button is. I removed the shim I added and the engine is much better. Like it better now.
Also one thing I noticed. If you use a Novarossi plug you have to use 2 washers. I noticed this is not the case on all GO engines. Some buttons you dont need 2. Have you found this?
Also one thing I noticed. If you use a Novarossi plug you have to use 2 washers. I noticed this is not the case on all GO engines. Some buttons you dont need 2. Have you found this?
#86
Hey jersey
I dont know why you would use 2 washers unless the Nova plug was Long body and you wanted to de compress the Geo Dome C R
In future use Short body plug with 1 washer
DIDO
The fuel is what i recommend , i run in most motors like that with that fuel blend cos ive found it works nice. Castor is thick so it keeps things hot and it protects well when you have those tight tolerances in a new engine. If you cant be assed then just go to 25% nitro , should be fine, heaps of people do that.
Cheers <MM
I dont know why you would use 2 washers unless the Nova plug was Long body and you wanted to de compress the Geo Dome C R
In future use Short body plug with 1 washer
DIDO
The fuel is what i recommend , i run in most motors like that with that fuel blend cos ive found it works nice. Castor is thick so it keeps things hot and it protects well when you have those tight tolerances in a new engine. If you cant be assed then just go to 25% nitro , should be fine, heaps of people do that.
Cheers <MM
#87
Originally Posted by Rookie 4.6
I have a nova P5X carb and 9886 pipe on my GO it holds its tune very well and has not flamed out once since i began tuning it. I run a LRP 6 plug, and use the MASSIVE MODS HB444 25%. At the end of my last final, temp check was 80degC which i believe is too cold?? Its already producing ridiculous power and I really dont feel the need to lean it anymore.
Does anyone know what factors contribute to engine temp being cold apart from the obvious??? And also what the point of turbo heads are??
I have a P5X head and think it will fit straight on the GO, is there something to gain by this??
Thanks in advance....
Does anyone know what factors contribute to engine temp being cold apart from the obvious??? And also what the point of turbo heads are??
I have a P5X head and think it will fit straight on the GO, is there something to gain by this??
Thanks in advance....
#88
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by MassiveMods
Id tune for performance regardless of temp , then limit throttle servo EPA to reduce power.. OR ! use a smaller carb restrictor . Dont run it cold it will wear the engine..
#90
I have found that I was mistaken on the head shimming that my GO .21 5 port came with.
I took the head off again and found that it had 3 shims from the factory.
2 thin copper ones and 1 thick copper one.....
I took the head off again and found that it had 3 shims from the factory.
2 thin copper ones and 1 thick copper one.....