1LikesJL Racing .12
11-15-2007, 02:35 PM
#931
The only reason the price is so low is because the owner of OFNA wants everybody to be able to afford racing RC cars with a motor that is as fast as a motor that is priced higher, there is nothing cheap about this motor. this motor is worth more than US$300.00 in quality and performance.
11-15-2007, 11:01 PM
#932
The only reason the price is so low is because the owner of OFNA wants everybody to be able to afford racing RC cars with a motor that is as fast as a motor that is priced higher, there is nothing cheap about this motor. this motor is worth more than US$300.00 in quality and performance.
Sounds good to me .
I've had mine for awhile now and i'm more than happy with it
.To put it nicely it Hauls arse and it's an Evo2!!!
Can't wait to get the Evo3.
11-16-2007, 12:23 AM
#933
11-16-2007, 02:56 AM
#934
The only reason the price is so low is because the owner of OFNA wants everybody to be able to afford racing RC cars with a motor that is as fast as a motor that is priced higher, there is nothing cheap about this motor. this motor is worth more than US$300.00 in quality and performance.
11-16-2007, 04:02 AM
#935
I can guarantee you that picco nor Ofna is losing any money selling it for $179.00. I just don't believe there enough material in a .12 to justify charging $300 plus dollars for one. I'm betting all the .12's would be within this price range if the other companies weren't being greedy. Just my opinion, if I'm wrong I'm sure someone will let me know.
Last edited by Xr Turbo; 11-16-2007 at 05:43 AM.
11-16-2007, 04:19 AM
#936
JLR 12
I've had really good luck with this motors. I went through the entire season last year with two of them. One big thing about these motors is that they make fuel mileage. Thats a big plus if your racing right on the edge, and struggling to make mileage. Look...........when it's 70 degrees outside.........all motors make mileage. It's a different story when it's 90 degrees outside.
Most people looking to buy this motor should definately be buying the 2607 pipe.The racing circuit has become so competitive that racers need to buy the pipe designed for the car.
One thing I do notice about the motor is that you have to stay on top of rod replacement. This is really true about all motors. I run my motors on the ragged edge every weekend that I race. Some tracks are fast and smooth..........and some are very bumpy. In any case make sure you check the rod often(after every race weekend) The motor at the wrist pin end seems always to be fine. At the crank pin check for wear. If you remove the back plate and rotate the piston to top dead center check the rod movement. You can do this buy rocking the crankshaft back in forth while the piston is at top dead center. If you notice the crank swinging more than 10 degrees...........replace the rod. If you do replace the rod.....also check the crank pin for wear. Use calipers to check it. I have found there crank pins to be very hard with little or no wear. I do end up replacing the rod every gallon to 1.5 gallons. You may not have to do this, but I push my motors really hard. It's still cheap insurance for a long lasting motor.
Most people looking to buy this motor should definately be buying the 2607 pipe.The racing circuit has become so competitive that racers need to buy the pipe designed for the car.
One thing I do notice about the motor is that you have to stay on top of rod replacement. This is really true about all motors. I run my motors on the ragged edge every weekend that I race. Some tracks are fast and smooth..........and some are very bumpy. In any case make sure you check the rod often(after every race weekend) The motor at the wrist pin end seems always to be fine. At the crank pin check for wear. If you remove the back plate and rotate the piston to top dead center check the rod movement. You can do this buy rocking the crankshaft back in forth while the piston is at top dead center. If you notice the crank swinging more than 10 degrees...........replace the rod. If you do replace the rod.....also check the crank pin for wear. Use calipers to check it. I have found there crank pins to be very hard with little or no wear. I do end up replacing the rod every gallon to 1.5 gallons. You may not have to do this, but I push my motors really hard. It's still cheap insurance for a long lasting motor.
11-16-2007, 01:51 PM
#937
is the pipe ofna 51900 the same as the 2607?
11-16-2007, 09:12 PM
#939
Anybody besides XR Turbo had problems with the pinch bolt not holding the carby in tight, tightened mine as tight as it could go and carby is still loose and moves everytime you move the throttle servo, i know this is a quick fix but maybe Picco/Ofna have overlooked this 
11-16-2007, 09:17 PM
#940
i've had this problem, just replace it bro. not the engine lol and not the carb, the bolt ok.
11-16-2007, 09:43 PM
#941
Anybody besides XR Turbo had problems with the pinch bolt not holding the carby in tight, tightened mine as tight as it could go and carby is still loose and moves everytime you move the throttle servo, i know this is a quick fix but maybe Picco/Ofna have overlooked this
11-16-2007, 09:44 PM
#942
Anybody besides XR Turbo had problems with the pinch bolt not holding the carby in tight, tightened mine as tight as it could go and carby is still loose and moves everytime you move the throttle servo, i know this is a quick fix but maybe Picco/Ofna have overlooked this
to mine it hasen't move a mil.
11-16-2007, 10:04 PM
#943
Anybody besides XR Turbo had problems with the pinch bolt not holding the carby in tight, tightened mine as tight as it could go and carby is still loose and moves everytime you move the throttle servo, i know this is a quick fix but maybe Picco/Ofna have overlooked this
11-16-2007, 10:29 PM
#944
That's what i did but to both sides, locks fine now, umm 1 tank through it now 
, pity they cant stay new forever Look out now Itchy B
, pity they cant stay new forever Look out now Itchy B