Originally Posted by SasonRC
You are on the right track. I use my lady's haridryer at the hottest setting, point the blower to the crankcase and not the carb, you can try to rest the hair drier on top of the chassis and it only takes 3 minutes to heat it up enough to get it to crank on the box. Leave the glow igniter on for sometime after you get the engine to start so that you do not stall. Also ensure that you have set the idle screw correctly. Some people forget to check the idle screw when first cranking their engines and blame it on it being too new etc.
I just broke in my EB Modded tz 3 and I had to heat it up for the first 4 tanks of break in. If you cannot get the temps up high enough on the first tank, leave the hair drier on the crank for 1/3 of the tank once the engine is ignited.
I used the Cyrul's WOT method to break mine in but you use what you feel more comfortable with.
I was not able to successfully break in my motor over the weekend
I used a hair dryer to get the temp up to 170F (according to the temp gauge), I could see the flywheel turning straight away but no fuel was getting into the motor.
Afte taking the car off the starter box, I was able to turn the flywheel full circle without any effort or compression!!!
I pulled the motor apart and saw the piston was stuck 2/3 up the sleeve, I had to re-heat it to get the piston out.
Have I broken anything? When the piston was stuck in the sleeve the flywheel was turning very easily - without effort. After I got the piston out (out of the sleeve) the piston was moving up/down OK.
Do I need to use a heat gun to get the temps hight?