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Old 07-02-2007, 12:12 AM
  #1336  
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Originally Posted by pwnzor
Since we havent released the CRF .12 off-road engine yet, the rotary carburator is not currently available.

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Old 07-02-2007, 12:25 AM
  #1337  
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Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak
Team Orion (#ORI88836) V-REV Glow Plug-Turbo X-Type NO.6 (Medium) (10pcs) - WILL this plug work with my WASP CRF?

Or do i need CRF plugs what is the differance to these plugs - need to order a bacth of 10 ASAP and RC Mart have them, can some one confirm to say this plug is ok!

regards
Frankie
The V-REV plugs are specifically designed for the CRF engines.
There is the normal type and the X-type.
If you are new to the engine, I would get the normal type, if you are experienced I would take the X-type. The normal will be a little more reliable and the X-type will give a little more performance.

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Old 07-02-2007, 02:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Nano
The V-REV plugs are specifically designed for the CRF engines.
There is the normal type and the X-type.
If you are new to the engine, I would get the normal type, if you are experienced I would take the X-type. The normal will be a little more reliable and the X-type will give a little more performance.

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thank you ur a legend
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Old 07-04-2007, 01:38 AM
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Hey Guys, cant find the Link to how to Break the CRF in, anyone got the tips for breakin " i have used PARIS Tips in the past" is there something differant to this engine i should know for intial start?

cheers
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Old 07-04-2007, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak
Hey Guys, cant find the Link to how to Break the CRF in, anyone got the tips for breakin " i have used PARIS Tips in the past" is there something differant to this engine i should know for intial start?

cheers
Richen it from the factory setting or use as is out of the box. Run it on the car and on the track right away, not on the starter box. Take it easy for the 2-3 first fuel tanks, only give blips at full power. Let it cool between the fuel tanks.
After 3-4 fuel tanks you can start adjusting it to get the performance out. The LSN should need only small adjustements from the factory settings, the HSN usually needs leaning out a bit.

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Old 07-04-2007, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Nano
Richen it from the factory setting or use as is out of the box. Run it on the car and on the track right away, not on the starter box. Take it easy for the 2-3 first fuel tanks, only give blips at full power. Let it cool between the fuel tanks.
After 3-4 fuel tanks you can start adjusting it to get the performance out. The LSN should need only small adjustements from the factory settings, the HSN usually needs leaning out a bit.

Nano
Thank you,
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Old 07-05-2007, 04:20 AM
  #1342  
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Another question, do i need to change the conrod at what point in time after break in, or after certian amount of fuel?

Also what are your thoughts on the NOVAROSSI 2630 pipe i have on the car now, i want to use the WASP pipe that i got in my Combo deal butthy ran out of stock on the manifold and i have no other manifold to suit the pipe of the WASP as it is bigger - will it be ok to run?

Oi yeah here are some pics of my G4S Team Magic - the engine looks great

cheers again,
Frankie
Attached Thumbnails Team Orion CRF Wasp Rev X-Dyno results-digital-035.jpg   Team Orion CRF Wasp Rev X-Dyno results-digital-034.jpg   Team Orion CRF Wasp Rev X-Dyno results-digital-029.jpg   Team Orion CRF Wasp Rev X-Dyno results-digital-028.jpg  
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Old 07-05-2007, 07:56 AM
  #1343  
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The conrod should last for a long time, no need to change it after break-in. You want to check the rear bearing regularly, depending on how and where you run the car you will need to change more or less often. As long as you don't let the rear bearing deteriorate you won't need to change the conrod or piston/liner for a long long time.

Your pipe will work, not as good as a custom designed CRF pipe though.

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Old 07-05-2007, 06:28 PM
  #1344  
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Originally Posted by Nano
The conrod should last for a long time, no need to change it after break-in. You want to check the rear bearing regularly, depending on how and where you run the car you will need to change more or less often. As long as you don't let the rear bearing deteriorate you won't need to change the conrod or piston/liner for a long long time.

Your pipe will work, not as good as a custom designed CRF pipe though.

Nano
I thought the change interval on the rear bearing was 20 hrs. Has that changed??
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Old 07-06-2007, 04:09 AM
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I thought the initial change was after 10hrs ?
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Old 07-06-2007, 05:06 AM
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I'm pretty sure it's 10 hours too. Never heard of the 20hrs one.
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Old 07-07-2007, 12:42 AM
  #1347  
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Hey Guys,

Well i got the WASp running today and i am very very impressed with the engine, i found it not too hard to tune to 205F after 5 tanks of Massive Mods Fuel 333 with a stock plug and an indoor track.

I can vouch its the quickest thing i have had so far since the OS TZ.12

We could not go full throttle without it stepping out on us, looking forward to the big open track but so far so good!

Well done Team orion, happy customer so far!
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Old 07-07-2007, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Wild Tiger
I thought the initial change was after 10hrs ?
Originally Posted by Z00M
I'm pretty sure it's 10 hours too. Never heard of the 20hrs one.
Hehe.. You guys are right. It's 10. I don't know what I was thinking.
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Old 07-07-2007, 09:15 AM
  #1349  
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Hehe.. You guys are right. It's 10. I don't know what I was thinking.
That's ok, w'ell forgive you !
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Old 07-08-2007, 03:13 AM
  #1350  
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hi!i need some help...i use tornado plus 16% fuel,[with special formula,for extra lubrication]does this engine need this?now the summer?or, ican use the stock tornedo with 9% lube?with the plus i loose power?and something else,with the updated carb and the stock setting for the lsn[hsn lean out a half] the angine is really blog up.when i lean the msn a 45min is ok,so which is the right setting for the lsn?[the pipe is 2647]

Last edited by GREGORY!; 07-08-2007 at 05:09 AM.
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