Team Orion CRF Wasp Rev X-Dyno results
02-17-2007, 02:08 AM
#901
Ran my Murnan CRF today just for break in. I started by richening 3 hours for low and high speed needles. Now i'm back to the original setting. This engine is already more powerful than anything else including my current Max MF12 and still have a long way to go until it is at the best tune.
Took a bit to get the clutch right and i still think i will need to do some more during racing tommorrow. So far i have tried with an RB & Mugen pipe and the Mugen seems to have the best power spread at the moment. We have a reasonable large straight and the gearing seems to be a bit high as i am not peaking before i need to get off the gas.
Can't wait for tomorrow to check run time and temps from running against others.
Took a bit to get the clutch right and i still think i will need to do some more during racing tommorrow. So far i have tried with an RB & Mugen pipe and the Mugen seems to have the best power spread at the moment. We have a reasonable large straight and the gearing seems to be a bit high as i am not peaking before i need to get off the gas.
Can't wait for tomorrow to check run time and temps from running against others.
02-17-2007, 07:11 AM
#903
Originally Posted by B4
Can't wait for tomorrow to check run time and temps from running against others.
02-17-2007, 08:12 AM
#904
Originally Posted by impalabob64
Hey guys ,the Murnan CRF performed at its best ,made to the D-main the mistake i made was tire shore .Out of 101 sedans getting in the D or C is a task by it self with alot of good drivers.
02-17-2007, 11:36 PM
#905
Run time with the Murnan CRF was 8 mins on medium fast track. Temp at the end of the race was 193 deg. I still need to try the 16t pinion on the 720 to see if i can get some more bottom end. Don't get me wrong i liked all the power but there is an abundance so why not try something different.
02-18-2007, 12:09 AM
#906
With the standard CRF engine I won the second round of our club championship today. That makes it two wins from two starts for me this year, having won the first round a fortnight ago.
Once you get this engine into the sweet spot with clutch and gearing, it's a winner.
Once you get this engine into the sweet spot with clutch and gearing, it's a winner.
02-19-2007, 01:40 AM
#907
Nice to see you guys enjoying your engines, congrats!
B4 what clutch setup did you use? and what about you Zoom?
B4 what clutch setup did you use? and what about you Zoom?
02-19-2007, 04:59 AM
#909
I finally got the CRF with the new carb parts tuned - and I have lots of low end power (and I do mean LOTS!), but I have a problem with excessive wheel spin/hop when I get back on throttle on a very technical course. I'm basically going WOT exiting the turn. Any suggestions?
Also, my idle seems a lot higher than with the old carb parts. Are you guys experiencing this?
Thanks!
V-ONE RRR WCE
Clutch gap: 0.5mm
Clutch nut: 1.2mm (up from 0.8mm)
End play: 0.1mm
Clutch parts: Stock Kyosho
Gearing: 16/21 ; 61/56
Also, my idle seems a lot higher than with the old carb parts. Are you guys experiencing this?
Thanks!
V-ONE RRR WCE
Clutch gap: 0.5mm
Clutch nut: 1.2mm (up from 0.8mm)
End play: 0.1mm
Clutch parts: Stock Kyosho
Gearing: 16/21 ; 61/56
02-19-2007, 05:27 AM
#910
Rmd,
Your gearing sounds really short, try 17/23, that's what used at the tight CRF indoor track.
The idling should be perfect, obviously you need to set the idle screw differently since the bore of the carburator is different than before. Because of the crankshaft design the engine sucks in a lot of air, therefore the carb aperture for idling will be very very small.
Nano
Your gearing sounds really short, try 17/23, that's what used at the tight CRF indoor track.
The idling should be perfect, obviously you need to set the idle screw differently since the bore of the carburator is different than before. Because of the crankshaft design the engine sucks in a lot of air, therefore the carb aperture for idling will be very very small.
Nano
02-19-2007, 05:33 AM
#911
Originally Posted by Nano
Rmd,
Your gearing sounds really short, try 17/23, that's what used at the tight CRF indoor track.
The idling should be perfect, obviously you need to set the idle screw differently since the bore of the carburator is different than before. Because of the crankshaft design the engine sucks in a lot of air, therefore the carb aperture for idling will be very very small.
Nano
Your gearing sounds really short, try 17/23, that's what used at the tight CRF indoor track.
The idling should be perfect, obviously you need to set the idle screw differently since the bore of the carburator is different than before. Because of the crankshaft design the engine sucks in a lot of air, therefore the carb aperture for idling will be very very small.
Nano
I've been fussing with the idle screw, but it's just not coming down enough. I will continue to work on it, but I was just wondering if other people noticed a difference.
02-19-2007, 05:38 AM
#912
BTW, I'm using the Skyline VR12 Plus pipe with the new carb parts and I'm really happy with this combination. As mentioned above, LOTS of power.
02-19-2007, 12:29 PM
#913
I have bought the crf in a josh cyrul kit,with 2626 pipe,muffler and a clutch kit for rrr.i cant unterstand if this is the old or the new motor.his code is ori80000.it has o.1 and 0.3 shims in the head.the manual say tha the main indle mast set in 5.5 turns.the manual in the new one is different?what are the codes of the new parts?
02-19-2007, 01:18 PM
#915
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Who do I contact about getting updated CRF parts in the USA. Im looking to run my CRF in my new chassis. Thanks.