Wheetie

Hey guys this is kind of a stupid question and probably one that's been asked before but I can't seem to locate it in the search. I'm building my first nitro kit, and I don't have a piston locking tool to install the flywheel onto the motor without the motor spinning. Do you have to have this tool? If not how do I go about getting it on there with no damage? I don't want to mess up a brand new engine or flywheel attempting it if it's not the right way to go about it.

bash bros

iTrader: (2)

You don't need any special tools for that, just slide the collet on, then the flywheel, then hold the flywheel with a pair of channel lock pliers while you crank the flywheel nut down. If it's an aluminum flywheel you can use a rag or something if you want so you don't gouge up the flywheel.

Sometimes a flywheel wrench is nice to have, but a channel lock pliers or vise grips will get the job done okay too.

My ST-RR EVO

iTrader: (5)

Yup. It also helps to just get it started a little by pulling the crank with one hand and pushing the flywheel on with the other, then carefully start threading the nut on while holding the flywheel by hand (for careful precision reasons). The more the pressure increases the less likely it is to slip. Then switch to pliers.

stoney452

iTrader: (1)

I have a brand OS XZB blue head setting in my HN x3 sabre. There is a gap between the back of the flywheel and the Flywheel. Is the flywheel supposed to but up right against the bearing race in front or it alright. I think it might be because the guy I bought the car from gave my the flywheel but not the Tapered collet and I just grabbed one of the shelf at a LHS. I ran my Jammin X1cr like this and it worked good but I didn't have much reach for clutch bell.

bash bros

iTrader: (2)

Yeah the type of collet can make quite a bit of difference where your flywheel sits. Usually the collet and clutch bell from your kit will get everything to line up fairly well, save for a few .1mm shims for fine tuning. Otherwise you may have to shim behind the collet, or use some shims between the flywheel nut and clutch bell in order to line everything up with the spur.

stoney452

iTrader: (1)

I dont have many sources for parts for this car in the US as there is no us distributer at this time.In fact I dont even have a track in the town where I live but would like to get it running soon. I put the collet on first the I tightend it down by holden it with channel locks and it tightened down but the gap I mentioned early was there. I haven't ran this engine yet as I haven't had time to really get running yet.

Maxximize

On all my engines there generally is a few mm between the flywheel and the front bearing. As long as it's tight and the clutch shoes aren't exposed too much, it won't hurt anything. As mentioned above it will likely need a few shims to line up pwerfectly. Search Ebay for Ofna shim kit, it's a bag of different sizes of shims for clutch bell and flywheel shimming. I used one of those kits on my LRP .28 for my T Maxx and it worked well.

22Racer

iTrader: (67)

I am not a fan of piston locking tools as they stress the piston and rod. I will use a channel lock pliers on the flywheel. Sometimes the flywheel will spin, in this case I clean it up very well and remove the carb. I use a thick peice of plastic or even aluminum will work and put it down through the carb hole in the block and into the crank opening. This will keep the crank from turning.

Rex