Werks

iTrader: (3)

Hi Deckman, on the older 3 needle carbs set the mid range needle so that the end of the needle is flush with the edge od the carb case.

Deckman

Thank you

Gavel

iTrader: (6)

Does that .5mm idle gap tuning method work with this engine? I tried it and couldnt even get it to stay running long enough to tune, no matter how lean i went on bottom

grizz1

Yep - the method described and talked about on here should work with any .21 engine.
The new edition carb on the B7-KE and Pro Series II engines runs with the bottom end needle more in from flush than previous models - so you may find starting at flush / flush on the needles just requires some more leaning on the bottom end than just say 5 or 6 hours in like on the older models.........

What's happening - is it just still running rich and flooding and dying with the .5mm gap ?

Gavel

iTrader: (6)

its idle is just so low as soon as i stop any throttle it stalls, and cant get the bottom lean enough to bring it up

grizz1

How far in on the bottom end needle are you ?

Gavel

iTrader: (6)

A long way, enough that i was getting concerned about bottoming it out so i stopped

grizz1

At .5mm to .7mm and both needles flush, the engine should still run - albeit pretty rich with a real low idle that will come up to speed as you lean the bottom end bit by bit.
If your leaning the bottom end that far without the idle speed changing I can only assume the idle gap is way too small (less than .5mm) to allow sustained running.

Gavel

iTrader: (6)

right, ill check the gap again tomorrow

Werks

iTrader: (3)

Please do check and let us know. Also please note that the 0.5mm idle gap measured with the reducer out is the setting for after break in when you go to race tune. It should allow the engine to run but with a very, very low idle at break in needle settings. To make things easier for everyone I reposted break in instructions in post #2 of this thread. You will note that it specifically mentions an idle gap of about 2-2.5mm for break in or about 1 1/2 turns in on the idle stop screw from flush I belive. Just look it over for specifics and it should answer any questions that you may have, if not please feel free to put up a post and I'll get back to you in detail.

Ron

Hoelshot

What kind of fuel mileage can I expect with the B7ke?

Thanks

Werks

iTrader: (3)

I've never been one to claim unusually long run times for our engines as it's a difficult question to answer, it's kinda like asking how many miles miles per gallon will my automobile go on a gallon of gas? It depends on the vehicle, types of road (track) and most importantly your driving style. I can say that in testing Kortz gets about 9 minutes on a tank in his Kyosho racing against other Pro level drivers. That is in line with what the other Pro level drivers seem to be getting from other engines.

If you are asking because you are trying to find one of those "10 minute engines" all that I can say is that in the hands of of a driver that runs at a slower pace I would expect run time to be longer, in the hands of a driver that is inneficient with throttle contorl and does a lot of blipping etc. I would expect it to be less. At the end of the day run time is for a great part dictated by the users ability to properly tune the engine and what you do with your trigger finger!

wittyname

iTrader: (4)

I also like to use this system because I often end up tuning and/or breaking in a lot of different types of engine with people. Using this system i never even worry about knowing what the factory needle settings are or anything along those lines. I just set the HS and LS flush with the end of the housing, set the air gap so that the slide is open 1-1.5mm and fire the engine up. How it idles immediately tells me if the LS needle is too lean or rich so I set this, then check the temp after a high speed run, adjust the HS needle to be in the 220'ish range, check idle speed and set LS so that it is smooth and steady and the engine is ready to go. Takes about 4-5 minutes total on an engine that could be completely out of whack and I've never even seen or ran before lol!

can someone please fix this ... is it .5 or 1 - 1.5

grizz1

1mm - 1.5mm idle gap is for a new engine that you are running in. This will allow the engine to run / idle with an extremely rich bottom end.

The .5mm setting is for attaining a race tune on a fully run-in engine.

These are two completely different animals.

wittyname

iTrader: (4)

Dude .... What I posted is the last paragraph of the break in post , its referencing a broken in engine. It clearly says 1 to 1.5mm , flush , HIGH SPEED PASS, TUNE TO 220 .... Obviously he is referring to tuning a engine already broken in that paragraph.