Community
Wiki Posts
Search

Advanced Nitro Break in

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-01-2015, 06:07 AM
  #1  
Tech Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
ctsvls2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Seabrook. TX
Posts: 331
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default Advanced Nitro Break in

I asked this question in the Sticky forum....but haven't gotten any response, so I thought I would ask here.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RTBMsosXitI

I am considering giving it a try. In the Sticky thread, there is a reference earlier on to one of the pros using this method. It was referred to as the "Japanese style" break in I think.


Was is the general opinion on this break in method?
ctsvls2 is offline  
Old 03-01-2015, 06:42 AM
  #2  
Tech Master
iTrader: (43)
 
305M3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 1,222
Trader Rating: 43 (100%+)
Default

I've tried this method for fun and when complete, I couldn't tell a difference in engine performance or longevity when compared to motors broken-in using the traditional heat-cycle method.

That being said, I now use Bones Break-in Fuel + the heat cycle method and the motor is ready for war in a fraction of the time...
305M3 is offline  
Old 03-01-2015, 06:58 AM
  #3  
Tech Lord
 
Roelof's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Holland
Posts: 12,335
Default

This is basicly what most people do. 1st tank very rich on a bench.

He is wrong to speak out that you will loose the pinch. A cold pinch does not say a thing of how it is on operating temperature, there is a difference!

But he keeps the motor on a high temperature and that is good, the pinch is a bit lower on high temps so the tight fit of the piston will not make uge scratches on the piston.
Roelof is offline  
Old 03-01-2015, 09:41 AM
  #4  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: IN
Posts: 306
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Maybe the head is 200+ but I bet the block is 150 at most. I use our Hot Headz engine heater along with the heat gun on the block but not with this wide open method.
gasser is offline  
Old 03-01-2015, 01:31 PM
  #5  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (16)
 
Juice1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Beeville, TX
Posts: 256
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Since trying the WOT break in method I've never gone back. I've done both my "Clocked" O.S., both of my O.S. Speeds, two stock O.S. blue heads, two GO MG66 and all still run to this day. An engine can be run-in in as little as 3hrs if done properly. Just remember to have a heat gun on it to keep the engine temps up because running that much fuel through it cools it off pretty quick.
Juice1 is offline  
Old 03-01-2015, 06:46 PM
  #6  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (35)
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Katy, Tx
Posts: 123
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Default

Interesting method for sure. Let me know how you get on, Porkchop
Captain3810 is offline  
Old 03-01-2015, 11:14 PM
  #7  
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 6,299
Default

AFAIC break-in is like many things in RC - it's something certain people like to over-think. A normal heat-cycling break-in is all that's needed IMO. No need to reinvent the wheel.

I disagree that you're automatically driving it around at 120F too just because you're doing it the traditional way. If the head is wrapped etc the natural pinch should ensure it's close to 200. And if it's not you can lean it a tad or just give it a bit more throttle in your initial tanks.

There have been enough guys over the years reporting breaking in high-pinch engines like Go's and Alphas without preheating and yet still having well-performing long-lasting engines (no rod or bearing changes in eight gallons etc...) which makes me wonder if preheating is even all that necessary.. I do think preheating is way overrated, but I try to do it for the first four or five tanks anyway. I think these engines are tougher and more resilient than some people make out. Not to say you can get away with being totally careless, but it really doesn't have to be rocket science.
Herrsavage is offline  
Old 03-02-2015, 12:31 AM
  #8  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (16)
 
Juice1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Beeville, TX
Posts: 256
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Herrsavage
AFAIC break-in is like many things in RC - it's something certain people like to over-think. A normal heat-cycling break-in is all that's needed IMO. No need to reinvent the wheel.

I disagree that you're automatically driving it around at 120F too just because you're doing it the traditional way. If the head is wrapped etc the natural pinch should ensure it's close to 200. And if it's not you can lean it a tad or just give it a bit more throttle in your initial tanks.

There have been enough guys over the years reporting breaking in high-pinch engines like Go's and Alphas without preheating and yet still having well-performing long-lasting engines (no rod or bearing changes in eight gallons etc...) which makes me wonder if preheating is even all that necessary.. I do think preheating is way overrated, but I try to do it for the first four or five tanks anyway. I think these engines are tougher and more resilient than some people make out. Not to say you can get away with being totally careless, but it really doesn't have to be rocket science.
+100... these little engines are tough little rascals and don't need to be pampered. I only preheat during break-in and if I remember on cold days. I pretty much live by the K.I.S.S. (Keep It Simple Stupid) rule on everything...LOL!!!
Juice1 is offline  
Old 03-06-2015, 06:27 AM
  #9  
Tech Master
 
Lille-bror's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Frederikshavn, Denmark
Posts: 1,792
Default

Originally Posted by ctsvls2
I asked this question in the Sticky forum....but haven't gotten any response, so I thought I would ask here.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RTBMsosXitI

I am considering giving it a try. In the Sticky thread, there is a reference earlier on to one of the pros using this method. It was referred to as the "Japanese style" break in I think.


Was is the general opinion on this break in method?
Looks like the perfect way to ruin the front bearing...
Lille-bror is offline  
Old 03-06-2015, 06:34 AM
  #10  
Tech Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
ctsvls2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Seabrook. TX
Posts: 331
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Lille-bror
Looks like the perfect way to ruin the front bearing...
Why? I do not understand.
ctsvls2 is offline  
Old 03-06-2015, 06:47 AM
  #11  
Tech Master
 
Lille-bror's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Frederikshavn, Denmark
Posts: 1,792
Default

When forcing so much fuel through the engine, you'll have a too high pressure on the front bearings sealing ring. You either get a leaking bearing (so I heard) or a non-smooth running bearing (tried it )

Edit: I didn't ruin the bearing due to too rich settings but because I ran some +15% oil mix in a Sirio engine... after 0.5 - 1 liter the engine started flaming and acting weird . I took out thefront bearing, and found a lot of resistance in it. Replaced it with a Avid bearing and stopped using the moonshine... no issues after that

Last edited by Lille-bror; 03-06-2015 at 09:02 AM.
Lille-bror is offline  
Old 03-06-2015, 07:04 AM
  #12  
Tech Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
ctsvls2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Seabrook. TX
Posts: 331
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

interesting.....
ctsvls2 is offline  
Old 03-06-2015, 07:08 AM
  #13  
Tech Master
 
Lille-bror's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Frederikshavn, Denmark
Posts: 1,792
Default

I hope some of the experts can back me up
Lille-bror is offline  
Old 03-06-2015, 02:45 PM
  #14  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: My house.
Posts: 3,569
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Lille-bror
When forcing so much fuel through the engine, you'll have a too high pressure on the front bearings sealing ring. You either get a leaking bearing (so I heard) or a non-smooth running bearing (tried it )

Edit: I didn't ruin the bearing due to too rich settings but because I ran some +15% oil mix in a Sirio engine... after 0.5 - 1 liter the engine started flaming and acting weird . I took out thefront bearing, and found a lot of resistance in it. Replaced it with a Avid bearing and stopped using the moonshine... no issues after that
The front bearing seal doesn't do an airtight seal, the "airtight" seal is done by fuel coating the crank, by the fuel that doesn't pass through the crank intake hole. The front bearing is the easiest way out for the oil in the engine to leak when the block is flooded.
30Tooth is offline  

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.