Advanced Nitro Break in
#1
Advanced Nitro Break in
I asked this question in the Sticky forum....but haven't gotten any response, so I thought I would ask here.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RTBMsosXitI
I am considering giving it a try. In the Sticky thread, there is a reference earlier on to one of the pros using this method. It was referred to as the "Japanese style" break in I think.
Was is the general opinion on this break in method?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RTBMsosXitI
I am considering giving it a try. In the Sticky thread, there is a reference earlier on to one of the pros using this method. It was referred to as the "Japanese style" break in I think.
Was is the general opinion on this break in method?
#2
Tech Master
iTrader: (43)
I've tried this method for fun and when complete, I couldn't tell a difference in engine performance or longevity when compared to motors broken-in using the traditional heat-cycle method.
That being said, I now use Bones Break-in Fuel + the heat cycle method and the motor is ready for war in a fraction of the time...
That being said, I now use Bones Break-in Fuel + the heat cycle method and the motor is ready for war in a fraction of the time...
#3
This is basicly what most people do. 1st tank very rich on a bench.
He is wrong to speak out that you will loose the pinch. A cold pinch does not say a thing of how it is on operating temperature, there is a difference!
But he keeps the motor on a high temperature and that is good, the pinch is a bit lower on high temps so the tight fit of the piston will not make uge scratches on the piston.
He is wrong to speak out that you will loose the pinch. A cold pinch does not say a thing of how it is on operating temperature, there is a difference!
But he keeps the motor on a high temperature and that is good, the pinch is a bit lower on high temps so the tight fit of the piston will not make uge scratches on the piston.
#4
Maybe the head is 200+ but I bet the block is 150 at most. I use our Hot Headz engine heater along with the heat gun on the block but not with this wide open method.
#5
Tech Regular
iTrader: (16)
Since trying the WOT break in method I've never gone back. I've done both my "Clocked" O.S., both of my O.S. Speeds, two stock O.S. blue heads, two GO MG66 and all still run to this day. An engine can be run-in in as little as 3hrs if done properly. Just remember to have a heat gun on it to keep the engine temps up because running that much fuel through it cools it off pretty quick.
#7
Tech Champion
AFAIC break-in is like many things in RC - it's something certain people like to over-think. A normal heat-cycling break-in is all that's needed IMO. No need to reinvent the wheel.
I disagree that you're automatically driving it around at 120F too just because you're doing it the traditional way. If the head is wrapped etc the natural pinch should ensure it's close to 200. And if it's not you can lean it a tad or just give it a bit more throttle in your initial tanks.
There have been enough guys over the years reporting breaking in high-pinch engines like Go's and Alphas without preheating and yet still having well-performing long-lasting engines (no rod or bearing changes in eight gallons etc...) which makes me wonder if preheating is even all that necessary.. I do think preheating is way overrated, but I try to do it for the first four or five tanks anyway. I think these engines are tougher and more resilient than some people make out. Not to say you can get away with being totally careless, but it really doesn't have to be rocket science.
I disagree that you're automatically driving it around at 120F too just because you're doing it the traditional way. If the head is wrapped etc the natural pinch should ensure it's close to 200. And if it's not you can lean it a tad or just give it a bit more throttle in your initial tanks.
There have been enough guys over the years reporting breaking in high-pinch engines like Go's and Alphas without preheating and yet still having well-performing long-lasting engines (no rod or bearing changes in eight gallons etc...) which makes me wonder if preheating is even all that necessary.. I do think preheating is way overrated, but I try to do it for the first four or five tanks anyway. I think these engines are tougher and more resilient than some people make out. Not to say you can get away with being totally careless, but it really doesn't have to be rocket science.
#8
Tech Regular
iTrader: (16)
AFAIC break-in is like many things in RC - it's something certain people like to over-think. A normal heat-cycling break-in is all that's needed IMO. No need to reinvent the wheel.
I disagree that you're automatically driving it around at 120F too just because you're doing it the traditional way. If the head is wrapped etc the natural pinch should ensure it's close to 200. And if it's not you can lean it a tad or just give it a bit more throttle in your initial tanks.
There have been enough guys over the years reporting breaking in high-pinch engines like Go's and Alphas without preheating and yet still having well-performing long-lasting engines (no rod or bearing changes in eight gallons etc...) which makes me wonder if preheating is even all that necessary.. I do think preheating is way overrated, but I try to do it for the first four or five tanks anyway. I think these engines are tougher and more resilient than some people make out. Not to say you can get away with being totally careless, but it really doesn't have to be rocket science.
I disagree that you're automatically driving it around at 120F too just because you're doing it the traditional way. If the head is wrapped etc the natural pinch should ensure it's close to 200. And if it's not you can lean it a tad or just give it a bit more throttle in your initial tanks.
There have been enough guys over the years reporting breaking in high-pinch engines like Go's and Alphas without preheating and yet still having well-performing long-lasting engines (no rod or bearing changes in eight gallons etc...) which makes me wonder if preheating is even all that necessary.. I do think preheating is way overrated, but I try to do it for the first four or five tanks anyway. I think these engines are tougher and more resilient than some people make out. Not to say you can get away with being totally careless, but it really doesn't have to be rocket science.
#9
I asked this question in the Sticky forum....but haven't gotten any response, so I thought I would ask here.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RTBMsosXitI
I am considering giving it a try. In the Sticky thread, there is a reference earlier on to one of the pros using this method. It was referred to as the "Japanese style" break in I think.
Was is the general opinion on this break in method?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RTBMsosXitI
I am considering giving it a try. In the Sticky thread, there is a reference earlier on to one of the pros using this method. It was referred to as the "Japanese style" break in I think.
Was is the general opinion on this break in method?
#11
When forcing so much fuel through the engine, you'll have a too high pressure on the front bearings sealing ring. You either get a leaking bearing (so I heard) or a non-smooth running bearing (tried it )
Edit: I didn't ruin the bearing due to too rich settings but because I ran some +15% oil mix in a Sirio engine... after 0.5 - 1 liter the engine started flaming and acting weird . I took out thefront bearing, and found a lot of resistance in it. Replaced it with a Avid bearing and stopped using the moonshine... no issues after that
Edit: I didn't ruin the bearing due to too rich settings but because I ran some +15% oil mix in a Sirio engine... after 0.5 - 1 liter the engine started flaming and acting weird . I took out thefront bearing, and found a lot of resistance in it. Replaced it with a Avid bearing and stopped using the moonshine... no issues after that
Last edited by Lille-bror; 03-06-2015 at 09:02 AM.
#13
I hope some of the experts can back me up
#14
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
When forcing so much fuel through the engine, you'll have a too high pressure on the front bearings sealing ring. You either get a leaking bearing (so I heard) or a non-smooth running bearing (tried it )
Edit: I didn't ruin the bearing due to too rich settings but because I ran some +15% oil mix in a Sirio engine... after 0.5 - 1 liter the engine started flaming and acting weird . I took out thefront bearing, and found a lot of resistance in it. Replaced it with a Avid bearing and stopped using the moonshine... no issues after that
Edit: I didn't ruin the bearing due to too rich settings but because I ran some +15% oil mix in a Sirio engine... after 0.5 - 1 liter the engine started flaming and acting weird . I took out thefront bearing, and found a lot of resistance in it. Replaced it with a Avid bearing and stopped using the moonshine... no issues after that