TruggyDude91

iTrader: (2)

Hey Guys,

Ryan Lutz created a thread asking people what they felt was missing or could be done better with the major brands of 1/8th scale cars. I thought it would be cool to create a thread doing the same thing, but with nitro engines. Now this is NOT going to turn into a brand bashing war or saying that this or that engine is complete crap. Responses should be one word or short sentence answers and only respond to the brands that YOU have owned and used. Not your buddy, not his buddy, or what you have seen. Below is a general template of the major nitro engine brands today being used.

*Novarossi
*O.S. Speed
*Alpha
*Werks Racing
*Orion
*LRP
*RB
*Fuzion
*Maxy
*Reds
*Reedy

Mods feel free to delete this thread if people become out of hand.

Jaz240

iTrader: (52)

I've never had any stock engines that had anything "wrong" with them. I just prefer some over others.

TruggyDude91

iTrader: (2)

I changed the word wrong to "done better." After your comment I thought this would be better.

Eivind E

O.S. speed - I can't think of a single thing wrong with them, except for the price they are perfect
Novarossi - does not have DLC coated crank, and their glowplugs are moody things.. don't like the nova plugs.
Alpha - the quality control is laughable, one engine can be great, second one no compression out of the box etc

Any manufacturer who does not do a DLC crank today is behind the times. Even Go engines do a DLC crank for their $140 priced CERA engine.

rcmoe

iTrader: (21)

Novarossi doesn't need to DLC there cranks IMO. There cranks are as tough as it gets and have lasted a long time in my experiences with running nova engines.

Jerm13

iTrader: (36)

I know this is going to cause a fight but here goes.
Now some of these engines I haven't used and I went 4-5 years running a brand that's not on this list. But I will add something to everyone as I have been around a while and seen or used most of these.

*Novarossi--Italian Power House. Has its ups and downs.
*O.S. Speed--expensive but worth it.
*Alpha--Quality control ( like it was said before) but great for the prices.
*Werks Racing--Always under rated. This is that drink that sneeks up to you and kicks you in the chops!
*Orion-- Almost a cross between the Nova and Werks.
*LRP-- Says "I race in Europe"
*RB-- Over rated for a while, fell off, making a come back!
*Fuzion-- Nova off shoot. Kind of like a Chevy in a GMC world. Not a bad thing!
*Maxy-- See them do well. Don't know much about them. I would run them.
*Reds--See above...
*Reedy-- And I thought they only made electronics

Like to see on that list:
Sirio--Best .24 motor I ever ran!
Radical--the 2 versions 621P and 621T were CRAZY, but they loved to drink!!
Picco-- Evo 2 7 port. Nuff said.

zooker

Dlc coating is way to use cheaper materials and mask it with a coating. Nova does not need it since they use very good quality materials. OS products were notorious for using lighter materials that worked great in static environments but when in the hands of less capable people their faults came up.

DLC coatings has its place but not every manufacture needs to use or are behind the times if they don't. Also DLC coating is not a cure all. The truth is people that buy $140 Cera engine is not looking at keeping up with it. If they get 6 gallons through it great and buy another whatever flavor of the month sub $200 engine is. People that buy $500 Nova will maintain it. My point is if you compare a Cera crank with 6 gallons to a Virtus crank with 14 gallons you will see my point.

Also there is no way in hell I would pay $140 for a Cera engine since the assumption is dlc is superior over a $200 Werks B5.

I am pretty sure the Cera engine and Alpha engine are manufactured in the same factory.

Eivind E

No.

Nova cranks wear just like the other cranks.
Difference is that after 6~7 gallons of actual RACE use the OS crank has negligable wear, and will still be usable for at least two more RayAracing re-pinches. After extensive RACE use the Nova crank will have more wear on it, it will be at least down to 4.88~4.90 or less while the OS will be at least 4.91~4.93. That's my actual experience from running them at race tune.

When even Go Engines can put a DLC coated crank in their low-cost engine, there is no reason why high priced Nova engines can't do it. If I buy an OS I know all I have to do is spend $20 repinch and $70 on a rod and bearings, and I have a "new" engine and I can do this twice. While on the Nova usually you'll need a new crankshaft too. Makes for worse economy for the end user, but obviously it's great for Novarossi as a company.

So you're saying DLC is superior?

Alpha and Go have addresses on the same street, in the same city, just different house numbers. Does anyone really think there'll be two micro-engine companies in the same street in the same city who both have bought expensive machines to make engines with?

madweazl

iTrader: (12)

Well, for .21s, I've only raced 2 of those listed, those being the O.S. VZB and the Werks B6 and B6 Pro.

I really cant think of a single bad thing to say about the O.S. other than the price tag which really isnt bad when you factor in just how fantastic of an engine it really is. Tough as nails, pretty smooth, and reliable as anything you'll find. I moved on to the B6 long before this engine was "done" and gave it to a buddy of mine who ran it hard and subsequently gave it to a buddy of his. I have no idea if it's still running or not but I'll shoot them both a text tonight to find out (couldnt even take a guess as to how much fuel has been run through it now though it was rebuilt once with new bearings, piston and sleeve).

Now, I've been running the B6 for the last 5 years and I truly love this engine. They have been easy to tune, reliable, and just lay down the power so nicely. During that 5 years I've ran the B6 and most recently, the B6 Pro. I honestly cant tell the difference between the 2 of them. I suppose if I ran them back to back something would stand out but after a week or two layoff between swaps, it just feels like my trusty B6. If I could improve something on this engine, it would be to have just a tad more bottom end but that would probably take away the part of this engine I enjoy so much; fantastic predictability. Again, I just dont think I have anything negative to say about these, much like the VZB. Longevity isnt something I could really comment on as none of them have over 5 gallons (what can I say, I like buying new stuff ).

Edit: Across the board, I'd say that a better balance of reliability, run time, and power delivery would be a better focus than some of the manufacturers shoot for right now. Cost is always a factor and you cant get all 3 in a "budget" friendly engine typically (Werks certainly puts that theory to the test) but I'd give up some longevity to have an engine that gave me those. I'd rather have an engine truly be good for 6 gallons than have one that only gave me 2 of the 3 things I feel are important for 8-10 gallons.

Maximo

iTrader: (11)

DLC is a worthwhile upgrade to any engine, and a hardened crank dos not equal DLC......DLC has a much higher lubricity then bare steel, which allows you to run leaner with less chance of rod damage..Without any question I would take DLC coated over hardened bare steel... Some engine may not have rapid crankpin wear due to proper hardening, however that still wont replicate or match the performance and durability of a DLC coating....

am

I am sorry to say that the old OS v-specs did not even last 10 liters on the crankpin, because of their very soft cranpins, so i belive that OS actually started DLC as one of their main reassons. We sold Recab os engnes witch was the first DLC cranks in any engine ever :-). It was standard V-spec crank that was initially very soft, but could run for years after the had been DLC`d. Fisrst crank i had lasted 3 years before the DLC started to show any wear at all. We wore out the SG shaft, since we only had DLC on the crankpin for the first engines.

Roelof

To get a hard crankpin the whole crankshaft needs to be hardened and that can take out the needed flex. With the right steel and the right hardening proces it is easy to get a hard crankpin with still flex in the crankshaft. That does cost a lot of time and expertise (and so money) so a compromise is needed. But it is not all about the crankpin only, also the brass bushing in the rod and the fuel have their part in the wear of the crankpin.

vandalzzz

*Picco. Lack of dust caps in the box package.

CKmaxx

iTrader: (1)

You need to add the FX to your list....

madweazl

iTrader: (12)

The sealed plastic bag isnt enough?