commodorexx

Hello all.

Im new to this site, So please excuse me if i have posted in the wrong section.

Im having issue's with my HSP 1/8 nitro truck.

At time of post, Im on 3rd tank of the break in.

It's fitted with a SH .18 engine.
Running Nitro-X 16% ,Os no 8 plug.

This is my 3rd "SH" nitro engine for this truck in 2 month's.

The issue is, It keep's running lean, If i try ritchen it up, It just stall's out....
The thing is, No matter how rich it is, It will run lean....And sound lean.

It run's around 220F, Only on the 3rd tank of the break in.

I have the HSN almost wound the whole way out, Still running lean!!..

I have sealed the engine up completly, The only air leak i know of is the front bearing, It seem's to leak a little if i blow air in, But as far as i understand, This is normal?...
(same leak on all 3 SH engines)

Tank and fuel line's, Brand new.

This is my 3rd SH engine, All have been doing the same thing!!!.

In my other offroad truck, I have a Team Infinity .18 engine, It run's excellent!!!


I have been into RC for a few year's now, And i have a fair understanding on how everything should be....I just have no idea what is going on with these engine's.

All 3 engine's still work, But i don't want to run them this lean, It will kill them.
I seen it happen to the first SH.

On the first SH engine, I wound the HSN all the way out and ran the truck, After 5 min's of running, It was at 390F.

For all the engine's in question, I can not get any of them to run under 200F, No matter what i do!!..

In all my previous engine's, Including TI, I could run them so rich that they would barely get up in the RPM's.

But with these engine's, They will only run lean and hot!!.
Even with the HSN would almost out)

Running at 230F, Turn the HSN 1/8 turn(richen) & it will stall out...

I don't know what's going on, I don't like them running so lean!!!...

What do i do??
Sorry for the long read, But i need to explain the whole story.

Thanx.

sschultz

iTrader: (15)

Are you adjusting lsn? That is where your initial adjustments should be, having the hsn flush or stock, you should be adjusting lsn first...
run a QUALITY 25% or 30% fuel.
read this
http://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-...ing-bible.html

dooug1960

iTrader: (6)

running at 220f is not lean a lot of engines run best at 250-280 as long as its under 300 your fine. you dont want to run your engine under 200 ever it need to be at least 220 for the piston ans sleeve to expand properly and seat the piston to the sleeve but over 300 is a problem. have you checked the fuel tank for leaks or make sure exhaust gaskets arent tore and are in good condition. read the link sschultz posted for you and good luck

commodorexx

Hey guy's, Thanx for the reply.

Yeah, I have read over the tuning bible a few time's.

Why will it not run any way rich?

YOu know how you can tune it rich and effect the top end.... Like if you keep tuning more more more on the rich side, You will loose more and more top end, Well i can not do this with this engine(all 3)
Not that i want it to run really rich, Just the fact i can not get it to do this has got me thinking why!.

With the first engine, I thought Ok, Ill run it as is and see how it goes, Thats when the temp went up to 390+F. I just shut it off.

That was with the HSN maxxed(out). So there was no way for me to keep it cooler.
Was just normal driving condition's.

LSN is set as normal, Via factory setting and pinch test.

Also a bit of a simmluar issue with the LSN, Tune it 1/8 turn rich, it will stall but not run rich(if you get what i mean)

I don't mind running over 200F, It's the fact that it goes from 200F to 400F really quickly and i can not stop it rising, Because it will not run rich in any way.
(normal driving)

Just worring that i can not get it to run on the rich side like all my other engine's.
Only either run lean and temp rises quickly, Or turn it 1/8-1/4 turn(rich) and it will stall.

fuel tank and lines are brand new, And tested for leak's = None.

The only leak i have found, Is the front bearing, This is the same on all 3.

I have returned the first Sh engine via warranty, New one did same thing

My Team Infinity engine runs great, You can run it really rich or lean, It takes a tune really well.
Hold's temp really well.

Seem's all 3 Sh engine's i own have leaking front bearing's from new, I believe the is no point me buying a new front bearing, Because it will probably leak as it seem's to me that they all leak.

Is this a big issue and abnormal for the front bearing's to leak?
Is there any way i can reduce the leak? (not buy new one)


Thanx again!

Maximo

iTrader: (11)

what is the oil percentage of the fuel ?

when you say they sound lean, can you better describe what your hearing and when your hearing it ? ie. at idle ?

Roelof

Maybe a movie will help?

Do you have the back pressure line connected between tank and exhaust?

CarlCrocco

iTrader: (92)

Convert it to electric, that should fix it

nitroexpress

Isn't Nitro-X fuel a full synthetic blend made in Austrialia by Mark and Co.? Try another brand.

commodorexx

Lean.
It will peak it's ass off for a second Then has a lean bog at full throttle.
After you come off full throttle, The idle flutters as in it's too lean.

Can not get it to stop the lean bog, No matter how rich i set it....

It will lean bog, Then richen it 1/8 turn, And it will just stall....Same deal on all 3 engine's.

Temp get's too high very quickly.

If i turn the HSN all the way out (ie 12 turn's from close(example)And drive as normal, Temp will rise upward of 390F in no time(if i let it) I just shut it down.

I just cant believe my luck!, 3 motor's and everyone of them are useless....
No point letting them run lean and as a result, Let the temp go thrugh the roof, It will just kill them in no time.

It's def a issue with these SH motor's, I mean, I have not read any issues anywhere with leaky bearing's, But all 3 of mine leak.... all from the same spot....all have the same lean issue. no matter the tune.

So, I need to find a way to seal these front bearing's, I believe it's the only way i am going to resolve this issue.

bearing code is 697RS.

Im going to go down to my local bearing shop tomorow and see if they have a replacemnt bearing, And just hope they are of better build quality and seal propley.....


I have been thinking of late, And reading on the forum's, Just to recap the issues (with all 3 engines)
Run lean.
Hard to get the tune right.
Stalling.
Hot hot hot.
It all point's to a air leak, In which i know the front bearing leak air, And quiet a bad leak too, Even from brand new.
So, I have to hope that i can fix it, Of the motor's will be paperwheight's.

I believe Nitro X is 9% oil. Thats what my LHS told me anyway.
I have now swiched to Redback which i think is 14% oil.
The above are the only 2 fuel's sold in my area.
Both fuel's have the same result. No improvement

Ohh, Im just really dissapointed, Getting back into nitro after a few year's, And just non stop problem's.
I would love just to be able to go and have a bash around without thinking im about to cook the engine's.

SH really should...I dont know...Re think this front bearing problem.

Any idea's??


Side note: The air is leaking out from between the crank and the inner race of the bearing.
Not from the actual bearing it's self.

Just really hope it's not a manufacture defect in the crankshaft in that it is too thin and not made for the bearing...
In that case, It will be irreparable, No new bearing will work becuase of the fit between the crank and bearing.

motomatt

iTrader: (12)

3 consecutive bad engines is almost statistically impossible. Agreed?
I read that you have replaced the tank and fuel lines.
If you can't get it rich enough to blubber, it is indeed lean.
This gives 2 possibilities.............

Air leak - not all bearings leak, but slight leakage is not abnormal.
An air leak between the inner race and the crank is caused by the crank (shoulder) not being fully drawn against the inner race. Always make sure to pull the crank forward when installing the collet/flywheel/nut. Leak testing with the flywheel off may also cause this.

Fuel starvation - I think the fact that 3 engines all have the same symptoms points to the problem not being an air leak. If the pressure fitting of your pipe is blocked, not only would no pressure go to the tank, it would also prevent any air entering the tank as the fuel level drops (creating a vacuum in the tank). This would cause exactly what you are experiencing.
Remove the pressure hose at the tank (leave it on the pipe) and try to blow through the hose. If you can't, you've found the problem.

I hope this is the case...........or I'll look like a damn fool.

commodorexx

I agree, This is why i am so annoyed.

I have tested tank and line's, in a tank of water + paint brush and bubbles. All ok there.

Exhaust is sealed as normal.

If you run the engine, And spray carby cleaner on the front of the engine down where the leak is, The engine will stall.
Same deal on all 3 engines.

I ran a long pipe from the intake up away from the engine to rule out any CC getting sucked into the intake and giving me a false reading.

The engine's are coverd in RTV to avoid any leak's. Ie carb, Back plate, needles, Carb screw, Idle screw, There all sealed and do not leak.

I just don't knw what to do.... I have sent them back for warranty replacment, New one returned with same issue.

Im positive they are leaking out of the front bearing, And as a result, Running lean.
Which make them useless to use.

Blow thrugh the fuel line, You can hear the air leaking.
Spray carb cleaner on the back of the flywheel, Engine will die.

Rest of engine has been thoroughly checked for leak's, None.

sschultz

iTrader: (15)

am just curious. Why do you have 3 of these engines when you had problems right away? Lots of choices out there bud, you chose to buy 2 more times. Sucks for you, but, seems your a gluten for punishment. Buy something respectable. Lots to choose from..... Good Luck....

latemodel13

iTrader: (101)

I think Moto man has your problem figured out. It sounds like a fuel delivery problem and not your bearings leaking. Try a different pipe. It's normal for the bearing to leak some when pressure testing. SH engines aren't too bad.

commodorexx

Brought 2 new HSP 1/8 scale truck's that came fitted with SH engine's. Both leak.
And an online company has a sale on there SH engine's, So while i was waiting for my truck' to arrive in the mail, I brought a spair engine on sale for a spair.

Went to my local hobby store today, And all he could say, Is SH engines Suck.....What a lot of help that was!!.

went over to a bearing store, And brought a new bearing, I was shocked at the cost of them... Nearly fell over!!!

Im about to install the new bearing today, So ill see how that goes, I really don't think it will help as the air is not leaking from the bearing its self, But from around the crank...

I did notice, That the new bearing is not sealed, It just has like metal cap's, And air does leak thrugh if i blow thrugh it..

I don't know, I just hope it fixes my problem.

I have a spair exhaust pipe in my part's box, I'll fit that today too and see how i go.

hitcharide1

iTrader: (1)

I've run S&H engines, so has my buddy, and they kick butt, especially in the price department.

HOWEVER....after awhile, they start to run lean, then have problems staying running. Then I read a post by another guy who had a similar problem with a different engine, and he solved it by adding shims to the head. So...I tried that, added .2 to it...and it instantly went back to how it used to be, ran nice and cool with lots of pep. And I haven't had a problem since.

It seems more than a few engines have a problem with rod stretch. You could go the expensive route and throw a new rod and/or piston to it, or go buy about four bucks worth of shims and get it done that way.

I'm running an S&H .21 8 and it's got about all I can handle.

My buddy is running an S&H .28 that once we tended the shim issue, is practically unstoppable. It just won't shut down, sips the fuel, and typically runs about 150-180 on temp and is easily the match of any other engine on the track. Best part of that engine was that he bought it new off ebay for about 87 bucks (with carb!) I don't know what they go retail....

Hope that helps, from what you're saying, it sounds like a very similar problem we both had and easily fixed (tho not after spending a month or so ripping our hair out wondering what the problem was.)