The Life of a Nitro Engine
02-17-2013, 04:54 PM
#46
wow really? it wasnt directed at anybody at all , read my other post
you do what you do i do what i do Neal , i am through with bothering to respond or aim anything your way , you guys are ummmmmm , ah nevermind , sheesh
this is the exact reason why you dont see too many of the fast guys on rctech on a regular basis , too much drama
you do what you do i do what i do Neal , i am through with bothering to respond or aim anything your way , you guys are ummmmmm , ah nevermind , sheesh
this is the exact reason why you dont see too many of the fast guys on rctech on a regular basis , too much drama
02-17-2013, 06:47 PM
#47
If you have raced r/c and don't know Marty Korn you haven't been involved to much. Would have seen him at the last couple worlds. I know in 2008 he was aaa cool as thy come. A gives his honest opinion. Ran werks engines for a good while.
02-24-2013, 09:49 PM
#48
I decided to edit my post because I really wanted to get something across. I joined this forum because I was looking to learn and I am a complete newbie. I am also a Penetration Tester by trade so I always look for hard numbers and facts. What I have learned so far is that RC is a lot of feel. Meaning everyone has a slightly different opinion and no real scientific methods of testing. That does not mean someone is wrong, just different. Now I know I am a newbie, and this will be my first season of racing, but that is how I see things. I am not condemning anyone I am just trying to point out something I have observed since I have been a member.
Listen to the advice people give because it might come with experience, but draw your own conclusions. Neal is right, Monty is right, and so are some of the other posters. Take what you can learn and draw your own conclusions.
Listen to the advice people give because it might come with experience, but draw your own conclusions. Neal is right, Monty is right, and so are some of the other posters. Take what you can learn and draw your own conclusions.
02-24-2013, 09:58 PM
#49
02-24-2013, 10:02 PM
#50
Not if you're a penetration tester...
02-24-2013, 10:13 PM
#51
Get your minds out of the gutter. Lol It means companies pay me to hack their computers.
02-24-2013, 10:17 PM
#52
I know what it means... Was just trying to lighten the mood.
02-24-2013, 10:22 PM
#53
I decided to edit my post because I really wanted to get something across. I joined this forum because I was looking to learn and I am a complete newbie. I am also a Penetration Tester by trade so I always look for hard numbers and facts. What I have learned so far is that RC is a lot of feel. Meaning everyone has a slightly different opinion and no real scientific methods of testing. That does not mean someone is wrong, just different. Now I know I am a newbie, and this will be my first season of racing, but that is how I see things. I am not condemning anyone I am just trying to point out something I have observed since I have been a member.
Listen to the advice people give because it might come with experience, but draw your own conclusions. Neal is right, Monty is right, and so are some of the other posters. Take what you can learn and draw your own conclusions.
Listen to the advice people give because it might come with experience, but draw your own conclusions. Neal is right, Monty is right, and so are some of the other posters. Take what you can learn and draw your own conclusions.
02-25-2013, 12:21 AM
#54
Ok
so what engine are you running. The 5-6 gallon mark for novas is about when its time for a resize and check the con rod slop on the crank pin. Put your finger on the rod and turn the crank and check for slop. If you have more than a slight tic between the crank and rod it could need a new rod. At four gallons you should be good unless dirt got in there or things got rusty. And check the bearings they get sloppy too. If you have dirt inside the rubber shield in front it's probably needing to be replaced and the rear can get to where it lets the crank drift into the case inside. Check to make sure the bearing is tight. it may wobble a bit side to side but not when pushing the races together. If the crank has scratches around where the carb sits it may be getting loose or some dirt got in there. Most likely at 4 gallons it just needs to be dissasembled and cleaned. but I've seen some "crappy bearings gone bad" scenarios sometimes too. I hope this helps. If you have any more questions feel free to ask.
02-25-2013, 02:12 PM
#55
03-03-2013, 06:17 AM
#56
pros dont run lean, lets get that out of the way. if lean was fast we would all do it. 1 hour too lean and i'm lean bogging down the straight, so no, lean is not fast. ive turn marshalled many pro amains and there is a lot of smoke out there, and not much marshalling. just cause their motors are properly tuned, clutch is set up and they have the right pipe and fuel does not mean they are running lean.
03-06-2013, 05:31 PM
#57
Anytime I give an opinion I do my best to give advice that can be used by everyone regardless of skill level or budget. But I think I should make something clear. I do get my engines for free. But even when I paid for them I treated them the same and my break in procedure was the same. After many years of experimenting with different procedures the quick and easy way I explained before has proven to be the best way in my opinion. You could put around blubbering rich if it makes you feel better but the resulting fluid friction from too much oil and low internal temperatures will do more harm than good.
The first 2 minutes after starting your engine are the hardest on your engine. Once it has come up to temperature it loosens up and wears at a much slower rate.
There are people on here saying they regularly get 10-12 gallons through their engines. This just is not entirely true. This is only possible if they are pinching, replacing bearings, and not tuning for mileage. We all have different philosophies about what is best.
All I can do is tell you what has worked for me over the last 20 years. Pinching an engine will prolong its life, but it will never be as good as it should be. Most pinching tools do not clamp evenly. And even if they do you must consider this; when engines wear the entire engine wears. You can pinch an engine all you want but the bearings and rod are also worn. When you simply pinch the sleeve and put the engine back together you are increasing the internal pressures on your other worn parts. BUT if you are just club racing, pinching as needed (very lightly) is a great and viable option to save cash and prolong engine life.
In my opinion there is one way to properly rebuild an engine. New bearings, new piston, new sleeve, new rod, new wrist pin, new clips. Pinching your engine and slapping ONE new bearing in it is NOT going to result in a properly running engine.
The first 2 minutes after starting your engine are the hardest on your engine. Once it has come up to temperature it loosens up and wears at a much slower rate.
There are people on here saying they regularly get 10-12 gallons through their engines. This just is not entirely true. This is only possible if they are pinching, replacing bearings, and not tuning for mileage. We all have different philosophies about what is best.
All I can do is tell you what has worked for me over the last 20 years. Pinching an engine will prolong its life, but it will never be as good as it should be. Most pinching tools do not clamp evenly. And even if they do you must consider this; when engines wear the entire engine wears. You can pinch an engine all you want but the bearings and rod are also worn. When you simply pinch the sleeve and put the engine back together you are increasing the internal pressures on your other worn parts. BUT if you are just club racing, pinching as needed (very lightly) is a great and viable option to save cash and prolong engine life.
In my opinion there is one way to properly rebuild an engine. New bearings, new piston, new sleeve, new rod, new wrist pin, new clips. Pinching your engine and slapping ONE new bearing in it is NOT going to result in a properly running engine.
03-06-2013, 05:39 PM
#58
hmmmm. Maybe the front bearing. Umm, That brown tint(varnish) that builds up on the port runners is good to get rid of also. Not all engines are so ridiculously tight from new that the rods have a short life span also. If people are scrapping there engines after 4-6 gallons,,,
that's just plain a waste of money. Your break-in process maybe why your only getting 4-6 gallons out of YOUR engines.... just sayin, Your getting half life IMO...
that's just plain a waste of money. Your break-in process maybe why your only getting 4-6 gallons out of YOUR engines.... just sayin, Your getting half life IMO...
03-06-2013, 05:48 PM
#59
4-6 gallons to run good on a "quality" engine? You must be in retail
I have a little over 11 gallons on a VZB speed with the stock rear bearing and rod, only thing done was a new front bearing and a pinch and that was only 2-1/2 gallons ago. She's been my back up for 3 seasons now in Truggy and Buggy. I should use it as my primary in one, it runs better then some of the new garbage in the market
I have a little over 11 gallons on a VZB speed with the stock rear bearing and rod, only thing done was a new front bearing and a pinch and that was only 2-1/2 gallons ago. She's been my back up for 3 seasons now in Truggy and Buggy. I should use it as my primary in one, it runs better then some of the new garbage in the market
03-06-2013, 05:58 PM
#60
Hallo everyone, i have been in this hobby for about 4 years, i know its not a lot. So i have one realy big qestion that i need to know. Its about the Nitro engines, how long do the bearings last and how long does the conrod last. What i mean is, for how many gallons or liters do they last, what are the sighs that worn us about them. I now that it also depends on if i race with my engine or if i just bush with it, i mostly race with my buggy. My engine has gon through 13 liters about. I cant wait for an answer...
Thank you !!!!
Thank you !!!!
Of course everyone has different opinions. My best advice to you is to hook up with an experienced local driver who uses similar equipment to you and ask him any questions you would like answers to. There is no such thing as a stupid question. Most of RC related things must be learned and are not common sense type things. Many things you will need to learn through trial and error. But you can save yourself a lot of trouble by asking questions to the RIGHT people lol.