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NEW - Arrow Racing GTR-II PLUS 5-Port DLC Crank Short Stroke .21

NEW - Arrow Racing GTR-II PLUS 5-Port DLC Crank Short Stroke .21

Old 11-06-2014, 08:25 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by BillyT.
FWIW, the Arrow rear cover will not fit in the VZ-B case... Arrow is 1.050 and OS is 1.020... They use the same rear bearing though... but the holes for the rear cover are not the same.
Hey Bill, never thought about that....don't buy one, should have one in the mail by saturday.
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Old 11-07-2014, 01:18 PM
  #32  
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I have to say that the motor is awesome. I have 27 tanks through it it has not stalled once .hold a excellent tune arrow did a great job on the plus motor. This weekend were running one of them fully modded. I will post how it does after the weekend. It doent need anything were doing but we cant leave well enough alone. Just putting ceramics in front and back mad a big difference so were going all out with one and the other stock just to see. Nothing to do with trimming so its gonna run we looking to increase the run time as well as go.
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Old 11-08-2014, 06:03 AM
  #33  
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Has anyone ran this motor with the o.s. 2090 pipe ? I'm assuming it would be a good combo ?
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Old 12-29-2014, 07:19 AM
  #34  
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Will it works with os 2060?
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Old 12-29-2014, 07:21 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by cczjordan
Will it works with os 2060?
Yes the 2060 will give better fuel mileage and top end. The Arrow pipe will give more bottom end power.
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Old 12-29-2014, 07:30 AM
  #36  
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Other nova pipe will work? Got 9886 n 9901 oso. Thanks in advance
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Old 02-19-2015, 02:06 AM
  #37  
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I compared the Arrow turbo head button to the VZB V-spec. The Arrow has a slightly higher compression ration. Sleeve timing numbers compared Are all within 1-2 deg's.

I have GTR II plus P/S/R/head listed for sale if anyone is looking for a set.
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Old 03-29-2015, 06:11 AM
  #38  
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I recieved a plus with a buggy that i purchased off this site. The engine as i was told was never started. I have had it apart and this would appear to be true. On Arrow Racing web site it talks about a .1 mm shim that needs to be installed and used for the first three tanks. When i took it apart there were two shims under the button a copper one and a silver one. Can someone tell me if all the shims are in place for the first start or do i need to put in another .1 mm shim to make 3 shims in total? if not please identify for me witch shim to take out after the first three tanks.

Thank you
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Old 04-04-2015, 07:14 AM
  #39  
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Could someone look at my questions at the end of this thread and post some answers.
Thank you in advance
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Old 04-04-2015, 07:29 AM
  #40  
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They recommend using 1 silver and 2 copper shims for break in. Then you can remove 1 copper shim if needed for more bottom end power.
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Old 06-10-2015, 04:07 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by MUTATIONRACER
I have to say that the motor is awesome. I have 27 tanks through it it has not stalled once .hold a excellent tune arrow did a great job on the plus motor. This weekend were running one of them fully modded. I will post how it does after the weekend. It doent need anything were doing but we cant leave well enough alone. Just putting ceramics in front and back mad a big difference so were going all out with one and the other stock just to see. Nothing to do with trimming so its gonna run we looking to increase the run time as well as go.
would love to hear how the modding went on this engine... results etc.. please fill in the blanks..
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Old 06-10-2015, 05:13 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by DaRaceMasta
would love to hear how the modding went on this engine... results etc.. please fill in the blanks..
I can't imagine there's much to mod really, it already has like a insanityridden number for timing, 230 degrees or whatever.. so timing mod is not going to happen.
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Old 06-10-2015, 06:20 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Eivind E
I can't imagine there's much to mod really, it already has like a insanityridden number for timing, 230 degrees or whatever.. so timing mod is not going to happen.
expand on that please and other wise it would be kool to see one with epoxy fill and i cant see a turbo cut on the rear of the crank so.. or is that just the way the picture was taken that has miss infromed me lol.. other wise yeah a mate of mine picked one up and raced it at FEMCA last week and came 1st in his Qualifiers so.. it has mm just as good chance of doing well as most engines out there.. which has peeked my interest.
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Old 06-10-2015, 06:34 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by DaRaceMasta
expand on that please and other wise it would be kool to see one with epoxy fill and i cant see a turbo cut on the rear of the crank so.. or is that just the way the picture was taken that has miss infromed me lol.. other wise yeah a mate of mine picked one up and raced it at FEMCA last week and came 1st in his Qualifiers so.. it has mm just as good chance of doing well as most engines out there.. which has peeked my interest.
Basicly most all engines sort of cost the same to manufacture.
The manufacturers cripple some engines with lower timings, like 180-190 degrees.
Other than financial reasons, there's no reason why a cheap engine shouldn't be given as good timings as an expensive one. So they're F'ing us in the A.

Engine modders will increase timings to make the engines give more power, more speed, etc.
Now, when an engine already is maxed out on timing, that is not an option.

That's what I was aiming at explaining here.

The Arrow on the other hand, is just a copy of an older OS engine, with something like 228-230 degrees timing. So you can't really increase on that.
That only leaves the backplate and internal case reworking really, I don't think that's really as effective as timing modding an engine.

Now this isn't the only thing determining the performance of an engine. There's also how precisely round the piston and sleeve is, tolerances, materials etc.
The reason I bring this up, is the Arrow is sort of cheaply made. So that's why, despite being a copy of an OS, it doesn't run as fast as an OS.
Tolerances are a bit off, not 100% round, etc. Still good enough for most people!

But the point being, I've heard stories of top level drivers being given hand selected bits that are rounder more perfectly, less tolerances, etc, by Novarossi and similar.. The best selection of 1000s manufactured pistons, basicly. And supposedly, this could be 10% more performance or whatever, just an example number.
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Old 06-10-2015, 07:40 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Eivind E
Basicly most all engines sort of cost the same to manufacture.
The manufacturers cripple some engines with lower timings, like 180-190 degrees.
Other than financial reasons, there's no reason why a cheap engine shouldn't be given as good timings as an expensive one. So they're F'ing us in the A.

Engine modders will increase timings to make the engines give more power, more speed, etc.
Now, when an engine already is maxed out on timing, that is not an option.

That's what I was aiming at explaining here.

The Arrow on the other hand, is just a copy of an older OS engine, with something like 228-230 degrees timing. So you can't really increase on that.
That only leaves the backplate and internal case reworking really, I don't think that's really as effective as timing modding an engine.

Now this isn't the only thing determining the performance of an engine. There's also how precisely round the piston and sleeve is, tolerances, materials etc.
The reason I bring this up, is the Arrow is sort of cheaply made. So that's why, despite being a copy of an OS, it doesn't run as fast as an OS.
Tolerances are a bit off, not 100% round, etc. Still good enough for most people!

But the point being, I've heard stories of top level drivers being given hand selected bits that are rounder more perfectly, less tolerances, etc, by Novarossi and similar.. The best selection of 1000s manufactured pistons, basicly. And supposedly, this could be 10% more performance or whatever, just an example number.
Thanks for making the effort , last but not least crank tinkering :P
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