acey

Ok, guys here we go:

Breaking in took about 3 Gallons and initially I used the Heat cycle method. Now it finally produces great power and compression. This Engine has quite some power. I have mine combined with a OS-2050 pipe and it now finally gives me a runtime of approx. 11 minutes under the following: Kyosho MP777 SP1, RB 5 plug, 8 MM carb restrictor, Byrons 20%, OS-2050 Pipe, os header for the 2050. Operationally I run it at temps between 230-240 deg. F measured with AIRTRONICS mt-4 telemetry heat sensor which is mounted at the front of the mating area between cooling head and crank-case. Temp gun measures about the same. To get 11 minutes I use occasionally full throttle (20% of time), 3/4 throttle (30 % of time), 1/2 throttle (40% of time), Less tha 1/2 throttle 10% of time. The power band with this setup is high on the bottom and the top, the mid is not as pronounced with this engine. It makes my kyosho fly like a bullet with short rapid bursts of throttle. Small inputs with throttle control make this car fly. Very sensetive, I get instant power when needed. Overall I like this engine. I have to try some smaller restrictors to see if I can prolong race time past 11 mins, as there is an overabundance of power with this engine. I have about 4.5 Gallons on it now and it now just barely feels like it is broken in. Lets see how far she will go. Had no failures of breakdowns with her sofar. Got the temps up a few times in the 270+ for short periods and it seemed not to matter. Overall I am pleased with this engine. I bought it because I had heard that RB lasts past 10 Gallons before resleeve. I am at 4.5 Gal and lets see how far this engine will go without replaceing parts. So far, so good! It took me a while to figure out how to get this thing properly dialed in so I can get good run times. Before that I could not seem to get it past 6 mins. I was using full throttle 80% of time though.

joydude630

U read my mind mate..I wanted to start a thread on RB F11 to get more detailed info on this engine..I heard this engine has crazy top end..

Chris Peralta

The engine is the same as the Rally with a different cooling head, and yes it makes a lot of power!!!! The top end is amazing but the thing still has a ton of bottom end as well and is more than enough even in truggy!!! Be aware that the engine does come with the older style carb so the idle screw will be on the front of the carb by your flywheel rather than behind the carb.

Herrsavage

Sounds interesting.. - and so is the price..

How does it compare to the Buggy 11? (And then to the other usual suspects - Alpha, Go, Argus, OS, Werks and co?)

If this is such a powerhouse, can it be from the Italian-made engines of the RB line and still have the good price? Or is it one of the Taiwanese-made RB's?

Chris Peralta

This is still a Nova made engine and not a Taiwan made engine. More power than the Buggy11. Will also drink more gas than the B11. Also has the older style carb and the smaller cooling head.

Herrsavage

MORE than the B11? Wow.. Don't know much about the Nova-based RB engines, as I generally write them off as being out of my price range.. But I have observed C6's over the years with respect... If this has C6-like power, for the price it might be right up my alley.. Especially since I don't care about run-time anyway..

Chris Peralta

Honestly it makes more power than a standard C6 ever did in my experience. The C6USA tuned version to me is more on par with how this engine performs, if you have seen one of those run.

joydude630

Chris cant the carb be turned the other way around..As per the pics on amain, the throttle linkage is on the right hand side instead of left..

Herrsavage

Not the greatest, but found this on youtube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-WW7Zie2mX8

Can't tell too much, but it does seem to have a pretty wicked turbo boost in the mid-range, up to a screaming top.. I like it..

EDIT - This one is at my local track coincidentally..:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u0jnTnqgYtQ

joydude630

Indeed a screaming top end..Any idea about the carb on my last post?

Herrsavage

Of course you can turn the carb around.. I see what he's saying though - once you turn the carb around, the idle needle will be on the bottom, which yeah isn't ideal...(Why in the hell did they make the picture that way?...)

Joydude, are you in the UK, or down under somewhere?(going on you saying "mate" earlier..)

I ask cuz, if the UK, what's the best price for the F11 over there?

Here in Germany, just the engine is €209 - or the combo for €249.. - which is a bit higher than I normally like to spend, but hey, sometimes I feel like going crazy..(though I should save up and buy a new kit first ha ha.. Already have too many engines..) Tower doesn't have it, unfortunately.. They have the best deals by far for international buyers..

Also, the combo here in Germany comes with the 2087 pipe, not the 2045 like at amain.. Difference?

Chris Peralta

I think that carb body is part of the reason that the engine is priced as good as it is. Also the engine won't have the head button with the O-Ring so that probably helped the price too. If you like power it's a great engine!! Just have to accept that the idle screw is on the other side of the carb.

joydude630

Haha I am not sure about the picture. Hope its the other way around if i decide to buy it..Whats the solution to it if the carb is turned the other way around as you said it isn't ideal?

I am originally from India but born in Dubai, UAE. I completed my Bachelors Degree & Masters Degree & worked for a while too..Now back in Dubai..I am not sure about the F11 in UK.

Chris Peralta

The carb on the engine will come installed in the wrong direction. You will need to pull the carb and put it on the engine the right way for your car. After doing that you will notice the idle screw is up front by the flywheel. Not going to hurt anything just not as easy to get to when your trying to raise or lower your idle which really should not be very often.

Jaz240

iTrader: (52)

People touching their idles is one of the biggest mistakes I see in tuning all Nitro engine. Once your engine is broken in and race tuned, you should never have to touch your idle. If it does not idle well after that first time you set it, then its your tune ( mostly bottom end ) that is off. Once you start chasing that tune to the point you need to change your idle then there are other areas of concern. Having the idle screw in front of the carb never bothered me.