xjr14

I can remove my idle screw and the carb doesn't close....idle screw has no effect either tightening or loosening....even removing; the barrel opens, but does not close all the way even when Idle screw is removed? please help.

abqNitro

iTrader: (1)

I just went through this same thing on a new O.S. 25xz... Take your filter off and pull out your reducer, and also remove the idle screw... Then, back out your low speed needle until the carb slide valve closes all the way.. Then back out the low speed needle an additional 1 turn to allow some adjustment.. Whats happening is that your lsn is turned in so much that its forcing your carb slide to stay open and not allowing it to close all the way. When this happens, it makes your idle screw useless when trying to slow down your idle...

dashstryk3

iTrader: (4)

What engine are we talking about here? If your engine has a mid range needle, you might wanna check that one out too.

xjr14

Kyosho KE25.....stock motor for the NEO RaceSpec. I think it only has a high and low needle

abqNitro

iTrader: (1)

Like I say, pull off the filter boot so that you can look down into the carb. Remove the idle screw, then try to close the slide by hand all the way... If it wont easily close, then your lsn needs to be backed out until the the slide will close...

marshon50

iTrader: (6)

Or, your idle screw is broken and the tip of it remains in the slot in the slide. As was said, back out your low speed needle completely and remove the slide....you'll find out what's up.

MonsoonRain

Hi I'm new to this hobby and had exactly the same problem.

After 4 days of trying and a blistered finger, I got my KE25 to start, did the rich break in routine and have learned to lean it out through the forums. Thanks guys!

Thought It was my turn to pass on my carb problems and solution as i had the same symptoms: on leaning out I found that my car kept trying to run because the idle was too high. Reduced it by turning idle out until it fell out. Carb still wide open. Pulled it apart and found that the idle screw dented the barrel a bit from when it was fully screwed tight. So the carb slider could not close completely. Fixed it with gentle but firm scraping with a tiny screw driver (don't have a dremmel yet!). After a few attempts carb slider now closes completely. Finished it off with a good wash out using a small amount of nitro fuel. Did not want to get the shavings into that newly broken in engine! Tested it this pm. Started on my second pull! That's the quickest I've had it run so far. 7 th tank full and I'm loving how it runs now!

Thanks to all that have posted online on forums and nitro RC videos. It certainly has helped a noob like me! Nitro RC's rock!

Btw, before pulling the carb apart, make sure that your issue is not caused by an incorrectly set servo and throttle linkage. This is easy to test by adjusting the throttle trim on your radio. My carb still wouldn't close with the servo linkage removed. So in my case it was an internal carb blockage, I think the ke25 is prone to this if you accidentally over tighten the idle screw like I did. (it dented the softbal metal enough to keep the carb slider from closing completely)

This hobby rocks!

Regards

MonsoonRain

Btw abqnitro's tip above helped me a lot. Did not want to pull out the carb if I did not need to. So I tried the idle screw first and then the LSN. Ended up unscrewing both completely and the carb still didn't close. The KE25 spec sheets were confusing as it had an addendum that seemed to say it was never meant to close completely. I had no other reference. But it does now, and it idles sweetly without the need for brakes to be applied. Plus the leaning out and lower idle mean I can run my car longer now. Reduced fuel consumption by at least half yet it still races a bit when I do a pinch test, so the settings are still on the conservative side.