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Old 06-27-2017, 08:38 PM
  #1471  
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so i decided to start on phase 2 of the buggy. i have something wierd with the 2 speed, i just cant seem to get the gear mesh correct. 2nd gear is always loose, even with 1st gear binding. its like the engine isnt parallel to the main shaft of the transmission, but it is. my gearing is 49/18 and 44/23, both add up to 67 like they should, with my gearing options i tried changing 1st down to a 17 tooth and it really made no difference. i just cant seem to figure it out.

so back to phase 2. my goal originally was to take a completely stock roller and put a 4 stroke in it, so im changing the only driveline part that isnt stock, im taking the 2 speed out and putting the center diff back in. the 2 speed was fun when it worked, however on dirt it really wasnt that useful. id like to see how this will perform with the enter diff and maybe see if i can get some track time with it in the future. all i need to do is make another set of engine mounts for it to work. because of how i built the 2 speed, the engine ended up a little further forward on the chassis, so i need to correct that. luckily it wont change much else.
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Old 06-28-2017, 04:08 AM
  #1472  
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Originally Posted by Sharkey_t
so i decided to start on phase 2 of the buggy. i have something wierd with the 2 speed, i just cant seem to get the gear mesh correct. 2nd gear is always loose, even with 1st gear binding. its like the engine isnt parallel to the main shaft of the transmission, but it is. my gearing is 49/18 and 44/23, both add up to 67 like they should, with my gearing options i tried changing 1st down to a 17 tooth and it really made no difference. i just cant seem to figure it out.

so back to phase 2. my goal originally was to take a completely stock roller and put a 4 stroke in it, so im changing the only driveline part that isnt stock, im taking the 2 speed out and putting the center diff back in. the 2 speed was fun when it worked, however on dirt it really wasnt that useful. id like to see how this will perform with the enter diff and maybe see if i can get some track time with it in the future. all i need to do is make another set of engine mounts for it to work. because of how i built the 2 speed, the engine ended up a little further forward on the chassis, so i need to correct that. luckily it wont change much else.
The gear total trick doesn't work exactly. The relationship between tooth count and gear radius is not linear. Add one tooth to a 12t pinion and add one tooth to a 54t spur, the pinion grows significantly, while the spur is almost unaffected.
I suspect due to your particular arrangement of gears, you're stuck in the middle so to speak.

Anywho, you should totally try to get more video! Haha

I'm still working on mine. I received a piece of drill rod yesterday, and I recently got a tool post dremel attachment for my lathe. I'm making a taper reamer to create the tapered holes in the backside of flywheels easily. Doing it by trial and error as I am now is taking a long time and it's wasting stock. The compound protractor is just not accurate enough.

So anywho, reamer...then flywheel...then retest.
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Old 06-28-2017, 09:18 PM
  #1473  
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yea i never really thought about it that way. ive just never run into any issues on other r/c cars with 2 speeds, although the gearing combo is a little unusual. i need to rework the 2 speed at some point, maybe ill work it around some xo-1 spur gears in 50 and 46 tooth and try a 6 tooth split on the pinion gears.
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Old 06-30-2017, 07:47 PM
  #1474  
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Originally Posted by Sharkey_t
yea i never really thought about it that way. ive just never run into any issues on other r/c cars with 2 speeds, although the gearing combo is a little unusual. i need to rework the 2 speed at some point, maybe ill work it around some xo-1 spur gears in 50 and 46 tooth and try a 6 tooth split on the pinion gears.
6 tooth sounds reasonable.

By the way, do you happen to know your idle rpm and clutch engagement rpm on your buggy with the steel shoes you made?
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Old 06-30-2017, 10:09 PM
  #1475  
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i have had steady idle as low as 3200 rpm, however it will stall when letting of the throttle. my normal idle is around 4500 rpm, its happy there. clutch engages around 6500 rpm.

so i started thinking about running the xo-1. after a bunch of though im going to tear it apart again before that happens. ive learned a lot from the buggy, and the biggest thing is im going to put a set of steel clutch shoes in it before running it anymore. i remember when i was running the car originally and it seemed the rpm was screaming just like the buggy did. i knew i was likely going to need to do it eventually, may as well do it now. i also need to address the exhaust, im not happy with how the mufflers connect to the headers (they are threaded on and constantly get loose) so im going to build new slip fit mufflers tail pipes.
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Old 07-01-2017, 07:22 AM
  #1476  
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Originally Posted by Sharkey_t
i have had steady idle as low as 3200 rpm, however it will stall when letting of the throttle. my normal idle is around 4500 rpm, its happy there. clutch engages around 6500 rpm.

so i started thinking about running the xo-1. after a bunch of though im going to tear it apart again before that happens. ive learned a lot from the buggy, and the biggest thing is im going to put a set of steel clutch shoes in it before running it anymore. i remember when i was running the car originally and it seemed the rpm was screaming just like the buggy did. i knew i was likely going to need to do it eventually, may as well do it now. i also need to address the exhaust, im not happy with how the mufflers connect to the headers (they are threaded on and constantly get loose) so im going to build new slip fit mufflers tail pipes.
How are you measuring RPM?
I feel like you already covered this, so sorry if so.
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Old 07-01-2017, 08:56 AM
  #1477  
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telemetry sensors on the radio. airtronics mt4. im using a magnetic pickup sensor and have a magnet imbedded in the flywheel
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Old 07-04-2017, 07:51 AM
  #1478  
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Got the flywheel finished. I purchased a #41 drill bit per your recommendation. Nice press fit. I used retaining compound anyways.

The reamer I made for the tapered collet hole did not work because stupid me forgot to harden it. It took quite a bit of work to make.
So, I ended up cutting the tapered hole the old (trial and error) way.

I made this bad boy HEAVY. Also, you can see the sides actually encompass part of the clutch bell, this is to add weight and also increase the surface contact with the starter wheel (the skinny aluminum wheel was cutting into the starter wheels).

Next step, some shoes. I have a steel bolt spacer in my box of junk thats perfect. All I should have to do is take a bit off the OD, groove the OD for a spring, and slice it in half. Going for a wrap-around spring 2 shoe clutch style.




upload a new photo
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Old 07-04-2017, 09:56 AM
  #1479  
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nice work.
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Old 07-04-2017, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Sharkey_t
nice work.
Thanks!
As you can see, a single-wheel knurler does not work well on a mini lathe. I should have opted for a scissor style knurler. Oh well, it textured the OD and that's all that matters.
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Old 07-04-2017, 01:50 PM
  #1481  
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Got the shoes done. I drilled a couple extra holes on accident, but oh well. I'm about to go bench test the engine and see:

1)How low will it idle now.

2)Will the clutch disengage at all with these shoes being so heavy.



url for an image
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Old 07-04-2017, 03:39 PM
  #1482  
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The results are in.
The idle is reliable now. It can get pretty dang low, I'm very happy with that.
However, as I figured, the clutch needs to engage a bit later. Even with this new super low idle, it drags and kills the engine if I hit the brake.

I did put the truck down on the ground on my back patio to give it a quick clutch stall test.
The damn thing has power. I had to put some weight down on the truck to keep the tires from spinning on the concrete to check the stall!
I didn't get to drive it though, after a few stall tests, the clutch spring snapped. It was stretched pretty hard to get the engagement point where it was. I'll put on a new spring, and drill some holes in the shoes.

I have a short video, it just shows the brakes stopping the engine.
https://youtu.be/NBJLN4wHAMU
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Old 07-04-2017, 05:09 PM
  #1483  
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shoes look good. my only tip would be to drill the holes a size you can easily tap, that way if you take too much weight out with holes you can add set screws to tune the engagement point
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Old 07-04-2017, 05:55 PM
  #1484  
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Originally Posted by Sharkey_t
shoes look good. my only tip would be to drill the holes a size you can easily tap, that way if you take too much weight out with holes you can add set screws to tune the engagement point
Thanks, the shoes ended up pretty easy to make. The only iffy part was marking out the holes by sight, as I don't have one of those circle center finder tools.
Thanks for that tip, I'll be sure to do that. I need to make a trip to the hobby shop tomorrow to get a few more of those Traxxas clutch springs. I thought I had a spare kicking around but evidently not.
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Old 07-09-2017, 03:53 PM
  #1485  
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Successful testing today!
The clutch still engages a bit at idle, but I'm tempted to leave it.

I got a couple gopro videos to share.
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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