OS FS26S-C 4-stroke development
#1471
Tech Regular
so i decided to start on phase 2 of the buggy. i have something wierd with the 2 speed, i just cant seem to get the gear mesh correct. 2nd gear is always loose, even with 1st gear binding. its like the engine isnt parallel to the main shaft of the transmission, but it is. my gearing is 49/18 and 44/23, both add up to 67 like they should, with my gearing options i tried changing 1st down to a 17 tooth and it really made no difference. i just cant seem to figure it out.
so back to phase 2. my goal originally was to take a completely stock roller and put a 4 stroke in it, so im changing the only driveline part that isnt stock, im taking the 2 speed out and putting the center diff back in. the 2 speed was fun when it worked, however on dirt it really wasnt that useful. id like to see how this will perform with the enter diff and maybe see if i can get some track time with it in the future. all i need to do is make another set of engine mounts for it to work. because of how i built the 2 speed, the engine ended up a little further forward on the chassis, so i need to correct that. luckily it wont change much else.
so back to phase 2. my goal originally was to take a completely stock roller and put a 4 stroke in it, so im changing the only driveline part that isnt stock, im taking the 2 speed out and putting the center diff back in. the 2 speed was fun when it worked, however on dirt it really wasnt that useful. id like to see how this will perform with the enter diff and maybe see if i can get some track time with it in the future. all i need to do is make another set of engine mounts for it to work. because of how i built the 2 speed, the engine ended up a little further forward on the chassis, so i need to correct that. luckily it wont change much else.
#1472
so i decided to start on phase 2 of the buggy. i have something wierd with the 2 speed, i just cant seem to get the gear mesh correct. 2nd gear is always loose, even with 1st gear binding. its like the engine isnt parallel to the main shaft of the transmission, but it is. my gearing is 49/18 and 44/23, both add up to 67 like they should, with my gearing options i tried changing 1st down to a 17 tooth and it really made no difference. i just cant seem to figure it out.
so back to phase 2. my goal originally was to take a completely stock roller and put a 4 stroke in it, so im changing the only driveline part that isnt stock, im taking the 2 speed out and putting the center diff back in. the 2 speed was fun when it worked, however on dirt it really wasnt that useful. id like to see how this will perform with the enter diff and maybe see if i can get some track time with it in the future. all i need to do is make another set of engine mounts for it to work. because of how i built the 2 speed, the engine ended up a little further forward on the chassis, so i need to correct that. luckily it wont change much else.
so back to phase 2. my goal originally was to take a completely stock roller and put a 4 stroke in it, so im changing the only driveline part that isnt stock, im taking the 2 speed out and putting the center diff back in. the 2 speed was fun when it worked, however on dirt it really wasnt that useful. id like to see how this will perform with the enter diff and maybe see if i can get some track time with it in the future. all i need to do is make another set of engine mounts for it to work. because of how i built the 2 speed, the engine ended up a little further forward on the chassis, so i need to correct that. luckily it wont change much else.
I suspect due to your particular arrangement of gears, you're stuck in the middle so to speak.
Anywho, you should totally try to get more video! Haha
I'm still working on mine. I received a piece of drill rod yesterday, and I recently got a tool post dremel attachment for my lathe. I'm making a taper reamer to create the tapered holes in the backside of flywheels easily. Doing it by trial and error as I am now is taking a long time and it's wasting stock. The compound protractor is just not accurate enough.
So anywho, reamer...then flywheel...then retest.
#1473
Tech Regular
yea i never really thought about it that way. ive just never run into any issues on other r/c cars with 2 speeds, although the gearing combo is a little unusual. i need to rework the 2 speed at some point, maybe ill work it around some xo-1 spur gears in 50 and 46 tooth and try a 6 tooth split on the pinion gears.
#1474
yea i never really thought about it that way. ive just never run into any issues on other r/c cars with 2 speeds, although the gearing combo is a little unusual. i need to rework the 2 speed at some point, maybe ill work it around some xo-1 spur gears in 50 and 46 tooth and try a 6 tooth split on the pinion gears.
By the way, do you happen to know your idle rpm and clutch engagement rpm on your buggy with the steel shoes you made?
#1475
Tech Regular
i have had steady idle as low as 3200 rpm, however it will stall when letting of the throttle. my normal idle is around 4500 rpm, its happy there. clutch engages around 6500 rpm.
so i started thinking about running the xo-1. after a bunch of though im going to tear it apart again before that happens. ive learned a lot from the buggy, and the biggest thing is im going to put a set of steel clutch shoes in it before running it anymore. i remember when i was running the car originally and it seemed the rpm was screaming just like the buggy did. i knew i was likely going to need to do it eventually, may as well do it now. i also need to address the exhaust, im not happy with how the mufflers connect to the headers (they are threaded on and constantly get loose) so im going to build new slip fit mufflers tail pipes.
so i started thinking about running the xo-1. after a bunch of though im going to tear it apart again before that happens. ive learned a lot from the buggy, and the biggest thing is im going to put a set of steel clutch shoes in it before running it anymore. i remember when i was running the car originally and it seemed the rpm was screaming just like the buggy did. i knew i was likely going to need to do it eventually, may as well do it now. i also need to address the exhaust, im not happy with how the mufflers connect to the headers (they are threaded on and constantly get loose) so im going to build new slip fit mufflers tail pipes.
#1476
i have had steady idle as low as 3200 rpm, however it will stall when letting of the throttle. my normal idle is around 4500 rpm, its happy there. clutch engages around 6500 rpm.
so i started thinking about running the xo-1. after a bunch of though im going to tear it apart again before that happens. ive learned a lot from the buggy, and the biggest thing is im going to put a set of steel clutch shoes in it before running it anymore. i remember when i was running the car originally and it seemed the rpm was screaming just like the buggy did. i knew i was likely going to need to do it eventually, may as well do it now. i also need to address the exhaust, im not happy with how the mufflers connect to the headers (they are threaded on and constantly get loose) so im going to build new slip fit mufflers tail pipes.
so i started thinking about running the xo-1. after a bunch of though im going to tear it apart again before that happens. ive learned a lot from the buggy, and the biggest thing is im going to put a set of steel clutch shoes in it before running it anymore. i remember when i was running the car originally and it seemed the rpm was screaming just like the buggy did. i knew i was likely going to need to do it eventually, may as well do it now. i also need to address the exhaust, im not happy with how the mufflers connect to the headers (they are threaded on and constantly get loose) so im going to build new slip fit mufflers tail pipes.
I feel like you already covered this, so sorry if so.
#1477
Tech Regular
telemetry sensors on the radio. airtronics mt4. im using a magnetic pickup sensor and have a magnet imbedded in the flywheel
#1478
Got the flywheel finished. I purchased a #41 drill bit per your recommendation. Nice press fit. I used retaining compound anyways.
The reamer I made for the tapered collet hole did not work because stupid me forgot to harden it. It took quite a bit of work to make.
So, I ended up cutting the tapered hole the old (trial and error) way.
I made this bad boy HEAVY. Also, you can see the sides actually encompass part of the clutch bell, this is to add weight and also increase the surface contact with the starter wheel (the skinny aluminum wheel was cutting into the starter wheels).
Next step, some shoes. I have a steel bolt spacer in my box of junk thats perfect. All I should have to do is take a bit off the OD, groove the OD for a spring, and slice it in half. Going for a wrap-around spring 2 shoe clutch style.
upload a new photo
The reamer I made for the tapered collet hole did not work because stupid me forgot to harden it. It took quite a bit of work to make.
So, I ended up cutting the tapered hole the old (trial and error) way.
I made this bad boy HEAVY. Also, you can see the sides actually encompass part of the clutch bell, this is to add weight and also increase the surface contact with the starter wheel (the skinny aluminum wheel was cutting into the starter wheels).
Next step, some shoes. I have a steel bolt spacer in my box of junk thats perfect. All I should have to do is take a bit off the OD, groove the OD for a spring, and slice it in half. Going for a wrap-around spring 2 shoe clutch style.
upload a new photo
#1479
Tech Regular
nice work.
#1480
#1481
Got the shoes done. I drilled a couple extra holes on accident, but oh well. I'm about to go bench test the engine and see:
1)How low will it idle now.
2)Will the clutch disengage at all with these shoes being so heavy.
url for an image
1)How low will it idle now.
2)Will the clutch disengage at all with these shoes being so heavy.
url for an image
#1482
The results are in.
The idle is reliable now. It can get pretty dang low, I'm very happy with that.
However, as I figured, the clutch needs to engage a bit later. Even with this new super low idle, it drags and kills the engine if I hit the brake.
I did put the truck down on the ground on my back patio to give it a quick clutch stall test.
The damn thing has power. I had to put some weight down on the truck to keep the tires from spinning on the concrete to check the stall!
I didn't get to drive it though, after a few stall tests, the clutch spring snapped. It was stretched pretty hard to get the engagement point where it was. I'll put on a new spring, and drill some holes in the shoes.
I have a short video, it just shows the brakes stopping the engine.
https://youtu.be/NBJLN4wHAMU
The idle is reliable now. It can get pretty dang low, I'm very happy with that.
However, as I figured, the clutch needs to engage a bit later. Even with this new super low idle, it drags and kills the engine if I hit the brake.
I did put the truck down on the ground on my back patio to give it a quick clutch stall test.
The damn thing has power. I had to put some weight down on the truck to keep the tires from spinning on the concrete to check the stall!
I didn't get to drive it though, after a few stall tests, the clutch spring snapped. It was stretched pretty hard to get the engagement point where it was. I'll put on a new spring, and drill some holes in the shoes.
I have a short video, it just shows the brakes stopping the engine.
https://youtu.be/NBJLN4wHAMU
#1483
Tech Regular
shoes look good. my only tip would be to drill the holes a size you can easily tap, that way if you take too much weight out with holes you can add set screws to tune the engagement point
#1484
Thanks for that tip, I'll be sure to do that. I need to make a trip to the hobby shop tomorrow to get a few more of those Traxxas clutch springs. I thought I had a spare kicking around but evidently not.
#1485
Successful testing today!
The clutch still engages a bit at idle, but I'm tempted to leave it.
I got a couple gopro videos to share.
The clutch still engages a bit at idle, but I'm tempted to leave it.
I got a couple gopro videos to share.
+ YouTube Video | |
+ YouTube Video | |