I believe its about time we all had a place to come together and leave the wealth of information we have to share about nitro engines .
Post anytime , post often but please please always post intellegently and knowingly .
If you don't know what you are talking about for sure then ask a question , that's what forums were designed for , knowledge sharing !!
preheat- before you ever fire your nitro engine up it should be preheated to a temperature of at least 190°F
air filter- maintain a well protecting air filter , if you see dirt on the inside of your filter you need to change what you are doing .
fuel - use a well known name brand fuel , try to get fresh fuel if possible and run at least 11% oil fuel for the first gallon or two
fuel system - this is where 95% of an erratic running engines problems occur . check your tank , fuel line , fuel filters all down the line to make sure all is proper .
glow plug - make sure you use a glow plug in the heat range that is either specified by the manufacturer or engine builder such as myself, maximo , powerhouse , abmods , rbmods etc. etc.
BDC - evrytime you shut your engine down you should make sure the piston is in a free movement area , not necessarily BDC but free moving
engine shut off - engine should be shut off by the flywheel and not by plugging the exhaust!! the exhaust method will cause premature front engine bearing failure
I've also learned about the problems that occur with not burning every drop of fuel in the engine and following with after-run oil!
Lately, I keep hearing about leaving the piston at BDC. I've not taken time to do that. What does it do??
i beleive when the engine is hot the sleeve expands, after shutting down the engine and putting the piston a BDC it allows the sleeve to return to normal size and still keep its compression, with the piston at TDC it will not allow it to that and will cause engine to loose compression faster. and will also make it hard on conrod for restart as the sleeve will shrink tight onto piston.
D8 "HARA", OS SPEED, ,SAVOX 1267/68 SERVOS, BYRONS 25%, SPEKTRUM DX3R PRO
D8T GO GXII ,SAVOX 1267/68 SERVOS, BYRONS 25%, SPEKTRUM DX3R PRO
NMRCC -(northern michigan rc club)
i dont ever run them out of fuel... many times I plug the exhaust to shut them down...I never worry about putting them to BDC, IMO as long as its not TDC you have no worries, its not going to bind anywhere but TDC IMO..and other then when new an engine never shuts down at TDC..... i never use ARO... I usually beat on my engines from tank 1.... I won't say how I treat my own engines is recommended or proper...But I get great life from my engines and rarely if ever have to replace bearings.....personally I think a clean airfilter and a proper tune matter way more then anything else...I think engine lifespan has more to do with having a proper tune and keeping the engine dirt free then any other factors combined.
I have never put after run oil in my engines either, and I have yet to tear one apart and find anything other then nice shiny lubed internals! Honestly I don't think that ARO is really a necessity anymore! The fuel we run today is way more advanced then it was years ago. Maybe 5 years ago ARO was a must because fuel didn't have the rust inhibitors and things like that to preserve an engine after use! I run byrons 30/11 and never had any problems!
~~~~~ Joey Morales ~~~~~
Heritage RC Raceway, San Diego CA
I never run my engines out of fuel, rarely use ARO, only put the piston at BDC during break-in, Only pre-heat during break-in or when running in cold outside temps.
What I do, do is tune them properly and use fresh air filters. I also run ceramic bearings in all of my engines and replace connecting rods after break-in. I also tear my engines down every gallon or two and inspect + clean them inside and out. I run Odonnell 20% race fuel because I'm weird. In a perfect world I would do everything listed(except running the engine dry... Never liked that idea) but what I do works and I get the most life out of my engines as anyone I know.
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