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Old 10-31-2010, 07:38 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
ok but how is the jp1 on runtime though or is it just depend on how you drive really ? i notice somewhat of a diffrence with the 53 pipe torque wise but it still felt like i needed more .

i like the 2045 pipe but man $150 !
The RB 2045 is the best tuned pipe for RB engines. The RB 2045 cost 105 dollars
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Old 10-31-2010, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by cdc
The RB 2045 is the best tuned pipe for RB engines. The RB 2045 cost 105 dollars
i was adding the header too.
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Old 10-31-2010, 07:41 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by jmaxey51
the JP1 gets about what the 2045 will get. i know people getting 9 min or so with the WS7, S7 and S5 with the JP1... the JP1 has way more torque. dont get the 007 dynamite pipe, its so much bottom that it runs out of the power half way down a straight, ive only used the 007 once LOL

the 2045 is an awesome pipe. just glad i got it cheap, no way i would pay 150 for a pipe

ok well insend of messing with the clutch than maybe i will try the jp1 out does it give you to much torque but than again i can control that with my finger or clutch springs.

9 min doesnt sound i do run a 8mm restricter because theres no way i can get that without it. and 8 min on a rich bottom not real rich.
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Old 10-31-2010, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by cdc
The RB 2045 is the best tuned pipe for RB engines. The RB 2045 cost 105 dollars

if it came with a header i would get it .
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Old 10-31-2010, 07:44 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
if it came with a header i would get it .
The RB 2045 is 65 dollars at tower hobbies.
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Old 10-31-2010, 07:50 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by cdc
The RB 2045 is 65 dollars at tower hobbies.

oh cool so it whould be $106 with buying the header seprate which im guessing you cant get any cheaper headers for it ?

but i chould use a coupon though with it.
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Old 10-31-2010, 07:54 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
oh cool so it whould be $106 with buying the header seprate which im guessing you cant get any cheaper headers for it ?

but i chould use a coupon though with it.
i would do that over the JP1... the price i was referring to was off amain, never check tower. 2045 is way better IMO but the next best alternative is the JP1 IMO
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Old 10-31-2010, 07:56 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Dr. Evil
Someone mentioned heavier spring and let it sing --

Umm. Aren't we talking about a 4 stroke engine?? IF I got that wrong
I'm sorry. 2 strokes could allow the engine to spool up to create the power in order to drive the drive train. 4 stroke engines I would imagine don't have the long /high RPM range as a 2 stroke. No were near and IF 4 stroke is the case, then torque is there on the bottom. That being said I would try the light springs to get this puppy to engage immediately without getting too much RPM behind it. If too much RPMs are behind it with a ton of torque, this thing will never hook up without sliding..


Ahhhh The other thing you could try is a weighted Clutch shoe with a light spring. This will allow quicker engagement and the weight on the clutch shoe will help force the shoe in to the end bell..
Yes, we were, but it drifted off topic.
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Old 10-31-2010, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr. Evil
Hi. I don't off the top of my head know of the shoe mfg, but, I think the weighted shoe / lite spring combo would work for you.

What was the 4 stroke engine in?? Didn't pick up the type of RC Car/Truck..
It's an OOOLLLLDDDD Ofna/Sinyih buggy. Think like 1993. Hence it not handling worth a crap.

I"m getting clutch issues figured out in this because the engine is really easy to remove and replace, then taking what I learned and putting it on an old Jammin X1X.

then, converting to a GT or SC truck...not sure which yet. WRC Imprenza is what I want...but not paying 90 bucks for a Kyosho Subaru body.
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Old 11-01-2010, 05:02 PM
  #55  
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MIP Heavy 3 shoe FTMFW!

Spun around to leading shoe, stock spring weight, 18tooth clutchbell=slip for about 2 feet. I now I could get it better, but I"m happy as a pig in slop.

thanks all!
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