57LikesThe New Werks B6 .21 Buggy Racing Engine!
12-05-2016, 04:03 PM
#4291
Mxr33, congrats on becoming more comfortable tuning and adjusting your engine. This is one of the bit advantages of our tuning system, it greatly simplifies things. Making things I feel less intimidating which encourages users to start playing aroudn with setting more. Something that is going to help you not only become again more comfortable with adjusting your tune but also give you a better understanding of exactly what type of adjustments to make!
In regards to your run time question getting 9:30 with a 2013 pipe set is actually quite good. A simple swich to a 2058 should give you an easy 30 seconds additional run time putting you at the 10 minute goal that you were looking for!
In regards to the clutch set up start off with the light version initially and try that with the 2x composite with 0.9mm spring and 2x aluminum (either standard WRX6570 or soft WRX6572) and 1.0 springs. Run the soft aluminum shoes if you want more snap, the standard aluminum shoes if you want a little bit more slip. As far as the clutch bells are concerned I've not used the ProTek bells before (although I do know they are popular) so I'll have to let someone else answer about which version they use. Hope the above helps!
In regards to your run time question getting 9:30 with a 2013 pipe set is actually quite good. A simple swich to a 2058 should give you an easy 30 seconds additional run time putting you at the 10 minute goal that you were looking for!
In regards to the clutch set up start off with the light version initially and try that with the 2x composite with 0.9mm spring and 2x aluminum (either standard WRX6570 or soft WRX6572) and 1.0 springs. Run the soft aluminum shoes if you want more snap, the standard aluminum shoes if you want a little bit more slip. As far as the clutch bells are concerned I've not used the ProTek bells before (although I do know they are popular) so I'll have to let someone else answer about which version they use. Hope the above helps!
12-06-2016, 05:21 PM
#4292
Tech Regular
I am running the Protek bells on my Mugen MBX7R, just the standard Mugen / Ofna style bell. With the 2058 you will get definitly your runtime, and if you need a little bit of extra time, try to reduce throttle travel by 2 to 3 clicks. Does wonders when you just need a couple more seconds and wont really affect your performance.
02-23-2017, 06:24 AM
#4293
Well I have to give a big thanks to Werks, for their warranty service.
I had a abnormal issue with mine. Werks didn't hesitate to replace it!
I had a abnormal issue with mine. Werks didn't hesitate to replace it!
02-23-2017, 01:21 PM
#4294
As I mention all the time we as manufacturers stand behind our products and if there is ever anything wrong with one of our motors that you feel is manufacturing related, just touch base with us so that we can have you send the engine in. As long as it's not an issue caused by abuse or misuse more than likely we can get it taken care of under warranty. Every engine manufacutrer should take care of their customers like this, so even if you are running a different brand of engine if something happens to it call the company that made and discuss the issue with them. You can tell a lot about a company when things go wrong and if they don't want to give you the time of day then you probably should ask yourself if you should be dealing with them again!
03-12-2017, 05:48 AM
#4296
03-12-2017, 05:54 AM
#4297
Wow, doesn't look like that engine saw much use at all, can't say i'm surprised though, i didn't get to use my B6 much either, couldn't even get it to stay running for a single club day. First "real" nitro engine i ever owned, thought it was normal at the time.
03-12-2017, 01:22 PM
#4299
Not much use? Look at that cooling head all eaten up. I wouldn't knock the b6. How did you break it in? Did you follow Ron's guide? Did you tune it per his guide? My werks engines have broken in and tuned easier than my reds, or os's.
03-12-2017, 02:22 PM
#4300
03-12-2017, 02:51 PM
#4301
im on my phone but the break appears to be in a bowl or concave shape, like the steel alloy didnt blend fully or something.
It odd its the full snout qnd not from the bearing out or from the clutch out. Maybe the gear mesh was super tight or the engine was not straight on the car. Either way its odd and a freak accident, one of those things you cant really blame on the quality of the motor
It odd its the full snout qnd not from the bearing out or from the clutch out. Maybe the gear mesh was super tight or the engine was not straight on the car. Either way its odd and a freak accident, one of those things you cant really blame on the quality of the motor
03-14-2017, 03:27 AM
#4302
I'm not real sure why the crank cracked. Engine was running awesome and i was having a good run against a fellow racer when it seemed like it flamed out. My pitman tried to restart but said the flywheel was loose. Pulled the engine out to tighten it up when i found the real isscue. Didnt think i had any bad landings or crashes and the bell hasnt hit the chassis. Pulled the back plate off and everything still moves, even the front bearing. Anyone ever seen this happen before?
03-14-2017, 03:49 PM
#4304
im on my phone but the break appears to be in a bowl or concave shape, like the steel alloy didnt blend fully or something.
It odd its the full snout qnd not from the bearing out or from the clutch out. Maybe the gear mesh was super tight or the engine was not straight on the car. Either way its odd and a freak accident, one of those things you cant really blame on the quality of the motor
It odd its the full snout qnd not from the bearing out or from the clutch out. Maybe the gear mesh was super tight or the engine was not straight on the car. Either way its odd and a freak accident, one of those things you cant really blame on the quality of the motor
I'm not real sure why the crank cracked. Engine was running awesome and i was having a good run against a fellow racer when it seemed like it flamed out. My pitman tried to restart but said the flywheel was loose. Pulled the engine out to tighten it up when i found the real isscue. Didnt think i had any bad landings or crashes and the bell hasnt hit the chassis. Pulled the back plate off and everything still moves, even the front bearing. Anyone ever seen this happen before?
03-14-2017, 05:22 PM
#4305
Sorry to see that you had an issue with one of our engines. If you ever do have a problem with a product (be it ours or someone else's) please try contacting the manufacturer if you think it's possible a defect or warranty related issues. If we know about something we can try to help you out, if we are never told about the issue obviously we're not going to be able to help you. Posting on a forum, while we do come here occasional is not a way to contact us and I just checked our general e-mail box and in the last few days we have received not one e-mail from anyone about engine related issues. Were you just posting the pictures to inform everyone of the issue that you experienced or would you like us to try and figure out what caused the issue and see if it's a warranty relted issue that we can help you out with?
You neeed to put on some glasses lol. Regarding the rest until you actualy learn how to tune it is pretty normal to have problem keeping an engine running. Did things get any better by the time when you were on to your second real nitro engine ??? Some people learn faster than others and sometimes it can take a person a while to "get it".
I would agree and I've seen that happen maybe 3-4 times in the last few years but when that happens I've only seen the crank break outside of the front bearing, not inside. So this is a little unusual!
Thanks, you're the voice of reason again instead of just pointing fingers. Giving this some more thought though this is imho not a user error type issue. I have an idea of what it may be and will mention it below.
Something like that would probably cause a rod failure if it happened so suddenly that the cltuch shoes could not disengage and you had the momentum of the counter weight (on the crank) still rotating.
I noticed that too but it's really hard to see detail in those pictures.
As mentioned it's not uncommon to see cranks break every now and then and I've seen it happen with every brand of engines including ours, Picco when we imported theirs, Nova's, OS etc. etc.It's usually caused by people lawn darting their cars or landing them in a manner that causes the chassis to flex enough that it impact the clutch bell putting a side load on the rotating crankshaft which causes it to crack and break off. As I mentioned though before when that happens the crank usually breaks before the front bearing, not after as in the picture you posted. I've seen them break after from someone running an engine with a rear bearing that was going out which caused the rear of the crank to wobble around putting stress on smallest part of the crank, the front section and causing it to break behind the bearing. You mentioned however that everything still moves smoothely etc, so I'm thinking that what happened in your case may just be a slightly over hardened crankshaft which can make metal brittle combined with some type of hit or harmonics thing caused the failure. In essence a one in a million fluke tyep situation. If you want me to take a look at it just send me the crank and I'll check it out and send you another one under warranty so that you can get back up and running.
You neeed to put on some glasses lol. Regarding the rest until you actualy learn how to tune it is pretty normal to have problem keeping an engine running. Did things get any better by the time when you were on to your second real nitro engine ??? Some people learn faster than others and sometimes it can take a person a while to "get it".
I would agree and I've seen that happen maybe 3-4 times in the last few years but when that happens I've only seen the crank break outside of the front bearing, not inside. So this is a little unusual!
Thanks, you're the voice of reason again instead of just pointing fingers. Giving this some more thought though this is imho not a user error type issue. I have an idea of what it may be and will mention it below.
Something like that would probably cause a rod failure if it happened so suddenly that the cltuch shoes could not disengage and you had the momentum of the counter weight (on the crank) still rotating.
I noticed that too but it's really hard to see detail in those pictures.
As mentioned it's not uncommon to see cranks break every now and then and I've seen it happen with every brand of engines including ours, Picco when we imported theirs, Nova's, OS etc. etc.It's usually caused by people lawn darting their cars or landing them in a manner that causes the chassis to flex enough that it impact the clutch bell putting a side load on the rotating crankshaft which causes it to crack and break off. As I mentioned though before when that happens the crank usually breaks before the front bearing, not after as in the picture you posted. I've seen them break after from someone running an engine with a rear bearing that was going out which caused the rear of the crank to wobble around putting stress on smallest part of the crank, the front section and causing it to break behind the bearing. You mentioned however that everything still moves smoothely etc, so I'm thinking that what happened in your case may just be a slightly over hardened crankshaft which can make metal brittle combined with some type of hit or harmonics thing caused the failure. In essence a one in a million fluke tyep situation. If you want me to take a look at it just send me the crank and I'll check it out and send you another one under warranty so that you can get back up and running.
Hi Werks, I was mainly interested to see why and how it could happen as I've never heard or seen anything like this before. I'll email you as soon as I can.