NOVAROSSI Engine thread....
#9166
It's got to be pushing 6 to 7 gallons. Bought a replacement at the beginning of this summer. I am just surprised it keeps running,and with good mid and top end. It was crisp and smooth throughout one week and the next weekend super fussy.
Not sure how many remember power house mods but he did this engine in 09.
Not sure how many remember power house mods but he did this engine in 09.
#9167
Mito 4 pre run
Anyone have any experience with a pre run engine? Curious to find out if it's worth the 30 extra dollars.
Factor in fuel, time to break in correctly, it's well worth the 30?
Also from what I heard is that if you buy a pre run, it's ready to get on the track and receive a race tune.
Factor in fuel, time to break in correctly, it's well worth the 30?
Also from what I heard is that if you buy a pre run, it's ready to get on the track and receive a race tune.
#9169
I have made a break-in bench without the need to fire up the engine and after 4 hours the engine is in a pre-runned state. With just 2 tanks on the track I could go on full power which did save me a lot of fuel, time, a rod change and a set of tires. So yes, 30 euro is a good save.
#9170
Anyone have any experience with a pre run engine? Curious to find out if it's worth the 30 extra dollars.
Factor in fuel, time to break in correctly, it's well worth the 30?
Also from what I heard is that if you buy a pre run, it's ready to get on the track and receive a race tune.
Factor in fuel, time to break in correctly, it's well worth the 30?
Also from what I heard is that if you buy a pre run, it's ready to get on the track and receive a race tune.
#9171
Rusty Crankshaft
Picked up a used keep-off 21-4 cheap.
The p/s is in great shape with great compression.
Got the engine apart and it had a lot of rust internally. I'm gonna replace the bearings.
The crank had a lot of rust on the counterweight and inside the center hole. I mic'd the pin and it measured .1962/.1959 so it's well within tolerance on the rod pin. All of the other critical surfaces are clean and mic up fine.
I masked all of the critical surfaces and sandblasted all of the rust off.
Will this be ok? has anyone done this before?
I don't want to spend money on a crank iff I don't have to.
The p/s is in great shape with great compression.
Got the engine apart and it had a lot of rust internally. I'm gonna replace the bearings.
The crank had a lot of rust on the counterweight and inside the center hole. I mic'd the pin and it measured .1962/.1959 so it's well within tolerance on the rod pin. All of the other critical surfaces are clean and mic up fine.
I masked all of the critical surfaces and sandblasted all of the rust off.
Will this be ok? has anyone done this before?
I don't want to spend money on a crank iff I don't have to.
#9172
i wouldnt sand blast a crank.....
#9173
Most of the time what looks like rust is just caked and dried castor oil...It looks just like rust !
#9175
400 series does, not sure what the bearing races are made from, but if I had to guess I would say 440C
#9176
If a nova crankcase have some deep scratches (4btt),will the engine losses it idling ability. I got 1 from a friend and it wont idling good, compression is good, crank is good.
#9177
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Has anybody had an issue with the C5TGN plugs. The past couple of weeks, my elite 8 wouldn't run at the beginning of heats. I installed a new C5TGN and it would run. The old plug glows, but it won't run unless I leave the igniter on it. Basically I'm only getting one race day on a plug and it still fires on the igniter.
#9178
Has anybody had an issue with the C5TGN plugs. The past couple of weeks, my elite 8 wouldn't run at the beginning of heats. I installed a new C5TGN and it would run. The old plug glows, but it won't run unless I leave the igniter on it. Basically I'm only getting one race day on a plug and it still fires on the igniter.
#9179
I'm looking for someone familiar with the Keep Off 4. I have about 3-4 gallons through mine. Idles an runs perfect except it seems to have a dead spot at low rpms coming off of idle. Basically lacking any low end punch at all.
I've driven a car with the same motor an pipe setup so I know it has tons on the bottom. But mine just has no snap. Holds the tune I have on it , has great compression an will idle for days.
I'm running the 41021 header and 2096 pipe, an I believe it is the 24067 carb. I have tons of mid to high end, just no bottom. It also temps great, 220-240 and good run times.
Any help or some baseline carb setting would be great, also it is a fairly new buku clutch that's working properly , an I can tune it out a bit with the clutch but it's still missing the bottom end.
I've driven a car with the same motor an pipe setup so I know it has tons on the bottom. But mine just has no snap. Holds the tune I have on it , has great compression an will idle for days.
I'm running the 41021 header and 2096 pipe, an I believe it is the 24067 carb. I have tons of mid to high end, just no bottom. It also temps great, 220-240 and good run times.
Any help or some baseline carb setting would be great, also it is a fairly new buku clutch that's working properly , an I can tune it out a bit with the clutch but it's still missing the bottom end.
Last edited by swayysta; 09-28-2016 at 02:05 PM.
#9180
Plus 4 is not a monster on bottom. But if you feel u have your tune right may need to try a little more tension on your clutch springs still. I did the same with my buku