E1 Diablo

iTrader: (10)

@Klimp

Take the carb off one of the good running motors and put it on the one that's acting up. Maybe a small leak in carb? Look at the carb (maybe front bearing) to see if it's leaking.

Werks

iTrader: (3)

Any time that you have to trouble shoot things it's basically a process of elimination. As you know the other 2 engines run normally as someone already suggested swap the carb from an engine that runs normally to the one that you are concerned about and see how it runs. If it now functions normally then you know the issue is carb related, so take the other carb apart and spray it out with a can of carb cleaner to remove any possible blockage, inspect the o-rings on the needles and if they are ok put a drop of after run on them then re-install and re-test the carb.

If you swap carbs and still have the same issue then you are going to need to pull the engine apart. Start by inspectign the front and rear bearings checking for any rooughness or notchiness to the bearings which more than likely is going to be where the problem lies (one of the bearings going bad).

Give the above a shot and let me know what you find!

Ron

Klimpen717

Thanks Ron, we can always count on you!
I have already cleaned the struggeling engines carb, checked the needles and oiled them. Also did a reset of needles and re-tuned.
Running perfectly good on low and high needle but just the idle acting up.

I will do what the others and you suggested. I'll put in the other carb to test with that. If it's not helping I will check the bearings.
Should you say the front should be replaced after say, 2-3 gallons?
What about the con rod? Replace it at 2-3 gallons?

Werks

iTrader: (3)

There is no real set amount of hours that specific parts should be replaced, idealy they should last the life of the engine! However front bearings can run into issues with dirt, the rubber shield getting damaged etc. etc. and if any of those happen then a change is certainly needed. Con rod is something that you should not have to even worry about unless you possibly had a run away or something like that. We have never had rod issues and they normaly easily last the life of the P/S set!

Klimpen717

That is comforting to hear Ron.
We are running on this extremely abrasive lime-stone-dust track.
So front bearings last a little shorter than normally.
I can't see any visible slop in the con-rod of the oldest engine that has run 9+ gallons.
Why I asked was because I hear from every corner that you should replace con-rod after this and that many hours/gallons. Alphas need it, Go Engine actually included one to change right after break-in.... *smile*

Gavel

iTrader: (6)

Hey all, got a b5 2,in a losi truck and am having a drama down bottom.

When i go full noise from a stop or a close stop like a tight corner etc, it bogs down hard before opening up, any ideas?

Ive two different clutches and it does it with both, my tune is alright, nothing special but not so far out that should cause a big bog down bottom, so im looking for help.

Thanks all

grizz1

If it's doing it with both clutches it sounds like a tuning / fuel supply issue.
Have you checked all the usual culprits such as exhaust seals, fuel tubing leaks, tank lid O-Ring seal etc ?
Does this happen all the time, or only when the tank gets low (or below a certain point each time) ?
Is it a lean bog type issue or simply feels flat and unresponsive ?

Gavel

iTrader: (6)

Flat and unresponsive, and it only seems to happen when its hot, i checked fuel line, not tank seal, any fuel level, gaskets are new but ill check them too

Maximo

iTrader: (11)

sounds like your too lean on the HSN... especially if it gets worse as it gets hot....

Gavel

iTrader: (6)

Lean on high? But its fine down the main straight. Ill give it a go as i havent touched the top much since i thought it was a botton issue

Maximo

iTrader: (11)

Absolutely...that is one of the first signs of a lean HSN .. when you hammer the trigger and there isn't enough fuel behind the needle and the engine will sag for s split second till the fuel starts to flow..... Treat the LSN as a idle mixture needle only...that means use it only for adjusting the mixture while the throttle is closed.... Everything else is tuned with the HSN...power out of the corner, power in the midrange and power on top .. When the engine idles you want it to have a nice mellow relaxed idle, if the engine sounds like a box of angry bee's your either too lean on the LSN or the idle gap is set too big or a combination of both..

grizz1

+1 on that.
The HSN is the first restriction the fuel comes to in the system. When your off throttle in a corner etc the tank pressure drops, and if the HSN is closed off just a little too much the reduced tank pressure won't push enough fuel through the HSN, so you get lean bog until things can catch up once the tank pressure rises up again.
A lot of guys will rush straight for the LSN and richen it when they get lean bog - but a large majority of the time it's the HSN that's too lean.
You will probably find your issue will get worse as the tank level drops and the engine will come in pretty hot.

dm.operating

iTrader: (6)

Hi guys, does the b5 come with a long or short needle. Thanks in advance

Jerm13

iTrader: (36)

Shorty....

grizz1

The Werks carburetors operate on short low speed needle.