Sirio CL3B .21 Off-Road Buggy Engine
07-09-2009, 05:27 AM
#1
Sirio CL3B .21 Off-Road Buggy Engine
Does anyone run the Sirio CL3B .21 Off-Road Buggy Engine? If so how do you find them.
07-30-2009, 12:36 PM
#4
Can anyone tell me where to find a replacement crankshaft for one of these motors?
thanks,
Brad Shearer
thanks,
Brad Shearer
07-31-2009, 12:40 PM
#5
I run one of these 3 ports in my RC8. I ran over a gallon and a half through it in stock form to get a good feel for it. It had good bottom to mid pull but lacked slightly up top with a JP-4 pipe, stock clutch setup. Runtime was between the 8 to 9 minute mark depending on the day.
After getting a good feel for it, I sent it off to Clockwork Racing Engines ( Maximo ) to get it modified. I can now beat my buddy's CL7B STi, from bottom to top ( he used to smoke me on top end, and we were fairly well matched in the low-to mid ). It's just an amazing engine now, and I get over 10 minutes of runtime. And still running the standard head button. This is an excellent buggy engine to begin with, and after the mod, it's even better. Hope this helps you.
After getting a good feel for it, I sent it off to Clockwork Racing Engines ( Maximo ) to get it modified. I can now beat my buddy's CL7B STi, from bottom to top ( he used to smoke me on top end, and we were fairly well matched in the low-to mid ). It's just an amazing engine now, and I get over 10 minutes of runtime. And still running the standard head button. This is an excellent buggy engine to begin with, and after the mod, it's even better. Hope this helps you.
07-31-2009, 04:32 PM
#6
I run one of these 3 ports in my RC8. I ran over a gallon and a half through it in stock form to get a good feel for it. It had good bottom to mid pull but lacked slightly up top with a JP-4 pipe, stock clutch setup. Runtime was between the 8 to 9 minute mark depending on the day.
After getting a good feel for it, I sent it off to Clockwork Racing Engines ( Maximo ) to get it modified. I can now beat my buddy's CL7B STi, from bottom to top ( he used to smoke me on top end, and we were fairly well matched in the low-to mid ). It's just an amazing engine now, and I get over 10 minutes of runtime. And still running the standard head button. This is an excellent buggy engine to begin with, and after the mod, it's even better. Hope this helps you.
After getting a good feel for it, I sent it off to Clockwork Racing Engines ( Maximo ) to get it modified. I can now beat my buddy's CL7B STi, from bottom to top ( he used to smoke me on top end, and we were fairly well matched in the low-to mid ). It's just an amazing engine now, and I get over 10 minutes of runtime. And still running the standard head button. This is an excellent buggy engine to begin with, and after the mod, it's even better. Hope this helps you.
You have the link? My CL3B is just sitting here. I won't mind sending it off. Thanks
08-01-2009, 10:29 AM
#7
If you PM Maximo, he will give you more details than I'm capable of giving you, or I can PM you his phone number, and you can give him a call. I believe he is currently working on a website, but don't quote me on that. Most of his clients are word of mouth. I know quite a few guys ( personally ), and many on other forums that run his engines, and we all sing the same song.
I also recently put a Clocked P7R in my RC8T ( used to run a CRF .21 ), and HOLY COW, it made me wish I'd have never bought my CRFs. Now I know better
I put a video up on Vimeo, I wanted to see what kind of runtime I get from one tank. It's one continuous shot, and I drove hard ( as you can see by all my crashes
) to use as much fuel as possible, that way I get a 'worst case scenario' of the runtime. I a race, I don't push it this hard because I want to keep it on the wheels:
Clockwork Racing Picco P7R
I also recently put a Clocked P7R in my RC8T ( used to run a CRF .21 ), and HOLY COW, it made me wish I'd have never bought my CRFs. Now I know better
I put a video up on Vimeo, I wanted to see what kind of runtime I get from one tank. It's one continuous shot, and I drove hard ( as you can see by all my crashes ) to use as much fuel as possible, that way I get a 'worst case scenario' of the runtime. I a race, I don't push it this hard because I want to keep it on the wheels:Clockwork Racing Picco P7R
08-01-2009, 12:39 PM
#8
The Sirio 3-port engine is a very good choice. I know of a few top level racers that have run it, and now the Orion ABI, which is a racing version of the 3-port and the run them in box-stock condition. There's no need to modify the engine - Cody King simply installed a turbo plug and raced it successfully for about half a season. Now he's running the ABI 3-port with comes with a turbo head, ceramic bearings, lightweight head, etc. The standard Alpha is closer to the CL3B in terms of features, but they're both good engines. Modifying these engines even when done properly (which is VERY rare) defeats their purpose. The CL3B and especially the ABI 3-port are designed for smooth power delivery (still lots of power) and great fuel economy. They require about 2 gallons worth of break-in before they really start running well, but when they do, it's a very good engine. I've seen as much as 13.5 minutes on a 125cc tank in a buggy without any additional restriction or throttle EPA adjustment.
FYI - a P7R and the Orion CRF engine are very similar creatures, and they come from the same factory. So, knowing better apparently doesn't include the knowledge that they're very similar engines in many respects.
FYI - a P7R and the Orion CRF engine are very similar creatures, and they come from the same factory. So, knowing better apparently doesn't include the knowledge that they're very similar engines in many respects.
08-01-2009, 02:24 PM
#9
...FYI - a P7R and the Orion CRF engine are very similar creatures, and they come from the same factory. So, knowing better apparently doesn't include the knowledge that they're very similar engines in many respects.[/QUOTE]
FYI, I knew that already. They're both Picco based, and the crank is where the similarities end. The P7R has a different feel than the Orion, the CRF has an absurd bottom end punch that's just too much for racing, for most, hence why the American version was produced. I have faith in my engine modder, if you can't feel the difference between the modded version and a stock version, then that's something that you should take up with your engine modder. The Clockwork modded CL3B, with a standard plug, will eat the stock 7 port STi.
FYI, I knew that already. They're both Picco based, and the crank is where the similarities end. The P7R has a different feel than the Orion, the CRF has an absurd bottom end punch that's just too much for racing, for most, hence why the American version was produced. I have faith in my engine modder, if you can't feel the difference between the modded version and a stock version, then that's something that you should take up with your engine modder. The Clockwork modded CL3B, with a standard plug, will eat the stock 7 port STi.
08-01-2009, 05:46 PM
#10
Enjoy your "modded" engine.
08-02-2009, 09:34 AM
#13
I will be trying to put a turbo head button in as soon as I can get one. From what I understand, it was Paul King that suggested using the turbo head button from the CL7B. Try heating up the cylinder with a heat gun, and freezing the button, then try installing it. I had the same issue putting the turbo head from my CRF, into my P7R.
08-02-2009, 09:41 AM
#15
I will be trying to put a turbo head button in as soon as I can get one. From what I understand, it was Paul King that suggested using the turbo head button from the CL7B. Try heating up the cylinder with a heat gun, and freezing the button, then try installing it. I had the same issue putting the turbo head from my CRF, into my P7R.
... I think the one with the black crankcase is slightly bigger
.. Im very sure its a Sirio head button. I thought they were all the same.....