Herrsavage

Well I just got the F11 back from the engine guy, and he said all it needed was a pinch.. I asked him about the rod, and he says it should hold another 5 liters or more. But I'm wondering about picking one up to have on hand to change when the time comes. I've never actually changed a rod.. What part # or whatever do I even need?

It came with a 2045 pipe with a non-RB header - which looks longer.. I assume that means more torque? On a pipe - the 2045 - which as far as I have heard is more a top-end pipe?.. Not too concerned as it's just gonna' be a fun engine for the SC8 (then maybe buggy..), but kinda' curious about what to expect. I also have a 2087, 2058, etc etc..

hambone

iTrader: (1)

2058 will give more topend, 2045 bottom/mid. RB rods are made to last well past life if engine, they have larger diameter crank pin. Just check for crank pin wear. New is .198".If pin is worn down to .196" a nova rod can be used.

Herrsavage

Thanks. And how do you check for that wear on the rod pin?

So people don't change RB rods like they seem to do on every other brand?..

BTW - I race my truggy with my other "good" F11 with a 2058. Seems an awesome combo for racing, but I was wondering about maybe something with more brutal raw power.. I guess I'll just have to experiment with pipes..

hambone

iTrader: (1)

Use a good caliper or micrometer and check it all the way around inside to outside since they'll wear with a taper.

Herrsavage

OK, digital caliper.. Been figuring I needed one of those for a few years now, but have never gotten around to it..

Anybody try the Kanai yet? On sale at amain for $260..

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ine-Turbo-Plug

The Speed onroad engine is also on sale.. Is that something you could put a bigger (Blast, maybe..) cooling head on and run it offroad?... Was reading about the Italian Job race and some guys running NR Virtus' for all-out power.. How would this Speed engine be different from a Fire 11, besides the head?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...urbo-Plug-2014

I see it doesn't have the good blue front bearing like the Fire..

Herrsavage

And now the Blast V19...:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...1014-blastv19_

Thoughts?..

No MES?.. Looks like the V9?.. (the only 5-port afaik without MES..) 14.5mm crank though, instead of 14mm like the V9.. Whatever that means..

smelly62

iTrader: (25)

Looks like someone has run a brake cylinder hone through it, not the best thing to do but should be ok. The shiny part near the top is normal and with that still there the piston should be ok.

Herrsavage

Well it's clutched, piped, mounted and ready to go.. Just need some decent weather and time to break it in and see what happens..

kyosho28

RB Blast V20, http://www.neobuggy.net/2014/01/14/n...st-v20-engine/

InspGadgt

Hey people...need some help here. A friend of mine got an RB X10 .21 engine a couple years ago and we've never been able to get it to run right. It was so tight to start with a starter box couldn't turn over the motor and we had to use a Hudy break-in stand just to get the engine run at all. Once we got the engine to run and back in the car we noticed the engine was still really hard to start and ran well over 300* even when running rich. So he gave up on the car for awhile. Now I've got my hands on it to try and make it work. I figured I would add in a head shim and seal it up really good in case it is an air leak or compression too high. I now have the engine head off and am noticing that sometimes when I turn the crank by hand the piston gets stuck really hard near the top...but most times it gets tight but not stuck. Should I worry about this? Am I going the right direction trying to seal it up and add a shim?

Thanks

aznitronut

iTrader: (3)

If you still have the Hudy break in bench, run some more fuel thru it, it won't hurt to use another head shim either, heat the engine up to at least 200 degrees before you try to start the engine, check your needle settings, factory settings are HSN 3.5 turns out from bottom, LSN 5 turns out from bottom.

InspGadgt

Well I've got it all back together now, sealed up and with 1 extra .2mm shim in there and it feels much better...hardly ever gets stuck now and I can turn it by hand with a bit of effort. I'll give that a try thanks.

aznitronut

iTrader: (3)

If the pinch is less binding, you should not have to run it in on a the break in bench, but, its best to heat the engine up first to 200 degrees, before starting, that is less stress on the engine.

am

...... i screwed up..

BillyT.

iTrader: (4)

Sold my back up V11. 2 hours later my modded V11 got run without a filter, which was all my fault. Made it half a tank. Zero compression...

So I have a V19 on the way. Hope it's as good as the 11. As long as I keep the filter on it, should be the only engine I need this year.