LRP .30 questions
07-21-2011, 04:58 AM
#1
LRP .30 questions
I picked one up used (before you say anything I have seen videos of it running etc) Everything was perfectly fine with it and was sealed.
Background:
previous owner ran 30% fuel with HPI R5 plug
I'm running 20% (what I have for my savage 25 and trx 3.3) with the same R5 plug and HPI chrome ribbed tune pipe.
I put it in my savage and went to run it, and noticed it wasn't acting right. I have no holes in fuel lines, it holds an idle perfectly fine. When I go to tune it, I can't get it hot...no more than 130 def F. Even If I lean it out on purpose. When I say I can't get it hot is that anything over 1/2 throttle, it will die. It's weird to describe as it's "breaking up" and not a smooth rpm increase. Like it's missing or something. I can blip the throttle and it will seem fine but if I blip it to get up to speed then slowly ease on throttle more than 1/2 it "breaks up".
I did some digging around on glow plugs and found that the HPI R5 is a cold plug? Which may work running the 30% nitro. But Me using 20% it doesn't like it? So I put in a OS A3 plug in and still 20% but no change. Also with the new A3 plug on a cold engine start, as soon as I got it to idle and remove the ignighter it would die. Which means the plug is too cold still??(what I have read)
I have sprayed around the carb and motor with carb cleaner while running to check for leaks and all seems fine.
I found the engine manual and they recommend a R5 plug and 25% nitro. but I figured you could tune it to run on 20% and a hotter plug??
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...810_engine.pdf
Anyone have ideas? It can't be that complicated....these motors are not that complex....fuel, air and spark...
Background:
previous owner ran 30% fuel with HPI R5 plug
I'm running 20% (what I have for my savage 25 and trx 3.3) with the same R5 plug and HPI chrome ribbed tune pipe.
I put it in my savage and went to run it, and noticed it wasn't acting right. I have no holes in fuel lines, it holds an idle perfectly fine. When I go to tune it, I can't get it hot...no more than 130 def F. Even If I lean it out on purpose. When I say I can't get it hot is that anything over 1/2 throttle, it will die. It's weird to describe as it's "breaking up" and not a smooth rpm increase. Like it's missing or something. I can blip the throttle and it will seem fine but if I blip it to get up to speed then slowly ease on throttle more than 1/2 it "breaks up".
I did some digging around on glow plugs and found that the HPI R5 is a cold plug? Which may work running the 30% nitro. But Me using 20% it doesn't like it? So I put in a OS A3 plug in and still 20% but no change. Also with the new A3 plug on a cold engine start, as soon as I got it to idle and remove the ignighter it would die. Which means the plug is too cold still??(what I have read)
I have sprayed around the carb and motor with carb cleaner while running to check for leaks and all seems fine.
I found the engine manual and they recommend a R5 plug and 25% nitro. but I figured you could tune it to run on 20% and a hotter plug??
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...810_engine.pdf
Anyone have ideas? It can't be that complicated....these motors are not that complex....fuel, air and spark...
07-21-2011, 05:26 AM
#2
something else I have noticed COULD be an issue is the head shims and what the clearance needs to be with running different % nitro...
Possible issues:
long vs short plugs
hot vs cold plugs
head shims for a given nitro %
if the motor was liking 30% it may need to be re-run in for 20%??
Possible issues:
long vs short plugs
hot vs cold plugs
head shims for a given nitro %
if the motor was liking 30% it may need to be re-run in for 20%??
07-21-2011, 09:03 AM
#3
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (17)
Sputtering LRP .30
Smitty,
I just wanted to chime in because I run one of these (the pull start version) in my monster truck. I will say that I have not had this same problems, but will try to help out.
The one constant that you seem to have, even after the glow plug change, is the 20% fuel. You downgraded the nitro content and got lower (much lower) engine temps. That concept should have been expected. However, I would say to upgrade to atleast 25% fuel. I wouldn't run another drop of the 20%. I run 25% all the time with mine with the R5 plug in a moderate climate and it runs normal. It is usually no problem to keep it in the 210 to 230 range temperature wise.
If you do change the fuel, I would recommend going back to factory needle settings before you try to fire it up. If it is still leaned out, and you put the higher nitro content in, the temps could go throught the roof fast.
Hope this helps - reading through, this seems like the logical approach before getting too crazy.
I just wanted to chime in because I run one of these (the pull start version) in my monster truck. I will say that I have not had this same problems, but will try to help out.
The one constant that you seem to have, even after the glow plug change, is the 20% fuel. You downgraded the nitro content and got lower (much lower) engine temps. That concept should have been expected. However, I would say to upgrade to atleast 25% fuel. I wouldn't run another drop of the 20%. I run 25% all the time with mine with the R5 plug in a moderate climate and it runs normal. It is usually no problem to keep it in the 210 to 230 range temperature wise.
If you do change the fuel, I would recommend going back to factory needle settings before you try to fire it up. If it is still leaned out, and you put the higher nitro content in, the temps could go throught the roof fast.
Hope this helps - reading through, this seems like the logical approach before getting too crazy.
07-21-2011, 09:30 AM
#4
Thanks a lot moto
I ended up calling Associated and the tech had said to run 30% since the "larger motors" run better with the higher nitro. Plus the fact that this motor saw 30% it's whole life.
Even though "I (Associated tech) don't have much experiance with this motor" (lol) given the info I gave him he said 30%. He also told me that the team guys run 30% and a mild temp plug.
I guess I figured as long as you match the nitro and plug temp, you can run whatever....but I may be (and prob am) wrong.
Also I assumed the factory settings were "flush" for the needles, but reading the engine manual they say to close them and back them out 2.5 turns or something. So I may have been even righer than LRP's stock settings....strike 2 lol
I'll pick up some 30% after work, put it to stock settings, put the original plug in it (R5) and cross my fingers....but i'll have to un uncross them to start it
And thanks for pointing out the 20% fuel as being the only thing unchanged. It's the last variable in the equation needing to be alterd to get a diff result. I didn't step back and look at it that way.
I ended up calling Associated and the tech had said to run 30% since the "larger motors" run better with the higher nitro. Plus the fact that this motor saw 30% it's whole life.
Even though "I (Associated tech) don't have much experiance with this motor" (lol) given the info I gave him he said 30%. He also told me that the team guys run 30% and a mild temp plug.
I guess I figured as long as you match the nitro and plug temp, you can run whatever....but I may be (and prob am) wrong.
Also I assumed the factory settings were "flush" for the needles, but reading the engine manual they say to close them and back them out 2.5 turns or something. So I may have been even righer than LRP's stock settings....strike 2 lol
I'll pick up some 30% after work, put it to stock settings, put the original plug in it (R5) and cross my fingers....but i'll have to un uncross them to start it
And thanks for pointing out the 20% fuel as being the only thing unchanged. It's the last variable in the equation needing to be alterd to get a diff result. I didn't step back and look at it that way.
07-21-2011, 10:27 AM
#5
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (17)
Thanks a lot moto
I ended up calling Associated and the tech had said to run 30% since the "larger motors" run better with the higher nitro. Plus the fact that this motor saw 30% it's whole life.
Even though "I (Associated tech) don't have much experiance with this motor" (lol) given the info I gave him he said 30%. He also told me that the team guys run 30% and a mild temp plug.
I guess I figured as long as you match the nitro and plug temp, you can run whatever....but I may be (and prob am) wrong.
Also I assumed the factory settings were "flush" for the needles, but reading the engine manual they say to close them and back them out 2.5 turns or something. So I may have been even righer than LRP's stock settings....strike 2 lol
I'll pick up some 30% after work, put it to stock settings, put the original plug in it (R5) and cross my fingers....but i'll have to un uncross them to start it
And thanks for pointing out the 20% fuel as being the only thing unchanged. It's the last variable in the equation needing to be alterd to get a diff result. I didn't step back and look at it that way.
I ended up calling Associated and the tech had said to run 30% since the "larger motors" run better with the higher nitro. Plus the fact that this motor saw 30% it's whole life.
Even though "I (Associated tech) don't have much experiance with this motor" (lol) given the info I gave him he said 30%. He also told me that the team guys run 30% and a mild temp plug.
I guess I figured as long as you match the nitro and plug temp, you can run whatever....but I may be (and prob am) wrong.
Also I assumed the factory settings were "flush" for the needles, but reading the engine manual they say to close them and back them out 2.5 turns or something. So I may have been even righer than LRP's stock settings....strike 2 lol
I'll pick up some 30% after work, put it to stock settings, put the original plug in it (R5) and cross my fingers....but i'll have to un uncross them to start it
And thanks for pointing out the 20% fuel as being the only thing unchanged. It's the last variable in the equation needing to be alterd to get a diff result. I didn't step back and look at it that way.
Not a prob. Yeah, some engines use flush as factory settings and some don't - you always have to check.
I am pretty sure you will be alright with the 30%. These LRP .30 motors are beasts, and suck down some serious fuel also. Out of all the larger engines I've ran, these are the most dependable and easy to tune.
07-21-2011, 12:09 PM
#6
Well I'm glad to hear that...not the sucking down fuel part, but about the tuning lol
I can see the power increase this has over my original .25 even with it running like crap lol.
I'm going to pick up fuel on my way home and see how it works out. Update to come later tonight. If all goes well and I get it dialed in I'm sure I will have a huge smile on my face
I can see the power increase this has over my original .25 even with it running like crap lol.
I'm going to pick up fuel on my way home and see how it works out. Update to come later tonight. If all goes well and I get it dialed in I'm sure I will have a huge smile on my face
07-22-2011, 02:00 PM
#7
SHE'S BAAAACKKKKKK
threw the R5 plug in, drained all the 20% nitro and threw in 30%, but it to stock settings and we were OFFF!!
runs like a rapped ape. front wheels wont stay on the ground LOL Ran like a completely different truck. I did blow out the first R5 plug but whatever lol.
Thanks for your help!
threw the R5 plug in, drained all the 20% nitro and threw in 30%, but it to stock settings and we were OFFF!!
runs like a rapped ape. front wheels wont stay on the ground LOL Ran like a completely different truck. I did blow out the first R5 plug but whatever lol.
Thanks for your help!
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
