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Old 11-30-2008, 12:03 PM   #31
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mp3
I am a heat cycle kind of guy. slowly bring the engine up to temp then cool off, bring it up in 15 or so deg steps, cooling between each cycle. All the while just trying to get fuel and heat thru it.

CAR I think it is the 24460
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Old 11-30-2008, 01:09 PM   #32
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I just got one on ebay.$270 after live got it for $192 shipped

Hey CaseyP what type of break in did you use .



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Old 11-30-2008, 01:34 PM   #33
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Below is an post I found a while back and it is the way I break in my engines and it works awesome for me.

ENGINE BREAK-IN

Engine Tempering & Engine Break-in
Reprinted From S-Grid with Stephen Bess's permission
Below info is from this page: http://rbmods.net/enginetempering.php

If you are still idling at least a tank through during break-in, you're using the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys (Ron Paris, Dennis Richey, Rody Roem, Michael Salven are just a few I've spoken personally with about this) recommend anymore.

From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC (bottom dead center), and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this manner for about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your engine will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your engine's compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.

You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory engine settings are very rich on every engine I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.

Rick Brake @ RB Mods -
"Hope this helps; give this break-in method a shot--you have nothing to gain except longer life & more power. Use a MC 59 or the hottest plug you can get and burn 30% nitro. Keep your cool and be patient, It will come in to Itís own after about a gallon of fuel."
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Old 11-30-2008, 02:52 PM   #34
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Hey jpz_67 you got a pm
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Old 11-30-2008, 06:01 PM   #35
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Got it, back at ya.
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Old 11-30-2008, 06:43 PM   #36
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what about this breakin method?

from reading I hear the two most important things in breaking in a engine are getting the engine to hold enough heat for metal expansion and getiing enough fuel and oil for a well lubricated breakin.

i have read about this breakin method. Heat the engine up to 200-220 degrees and start it up with the setting so rich it barely runs, runs like a two stroke. then run it wide open for 2-3 minutes on the box while using a heat gun to maintain proper heat. so your getting massive amount of fuel and oil through the engine while maintaining a proper temp. when using this method you also incoperate the heat cycle method by letting it cooll btc and soing it agian for 2-3 miinutes. even though you are wide open on the carb its not screaming because its soso rich. let me know what you think i was thinking about trying this on my next engine.
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Old 12-01-2008, 10:18 AM   #37
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So how was it in the truggy? 053 pipe?
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Old 12-01-2008, 11:42 AM   #38
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Assuming the price point of $299, will this engine be replacing the P5XS?
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Old 12-01-2008, 03:08 PM   #39
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I just got my Factory Tuned Plus 21-4 in the mail today. It comes with Carburetor Inserts 6.5mm,7mm,7.5mm,8mm.
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Old 12-01-2008, 05:36 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by franklucas View Post
what about this breakin method?

from reading I hear the two most important things in breaking in a engine are getting the engine to hold enough heat for metal expansion and getiing enough fuel and oil for a well lubricated breakin.

i have read about this breakin method. Heat the engine up to 200-220 degrees and start it up with the setting so rich it barely runs, runs like a two stroke. then run it wide open for 2-3 minutes on the box while using a heat gun to maintain proper heat. so your getting massive amount of fuel and oil through the engine while maintaining a proper temp. when using this method you also incoperate the heat cycle method by letting it cooll btc and soing it agian for 2-3 miinutes. even though you are wide open on the carb its not screaming because its soso rich. let me know what you think i was thinking about trying this on my next engine.
I wont claim to have all the answers but I personally do not like this method. It is extremely hard on the rod, and is actually 4 stroking.
The ultimate goal of the break in is to get some pinch out with out spinning a bearing and wearing out the rod.
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Old 12-01-2008, 05:50 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe_Racer View Post
Below is an post I found a while back and it is the way I break in my engines and it works awesome for me.

ENGINE BREAK-IN

Engine Tempering & Engine Break-in
Reprinted From S-Grid with Stephen Bess's permission
Below info is from this page: http://rbmods.net/enginetempering.php

If you are still idling at least a tank through during break-in, you're using the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys (Ron Paris, Dennis Richey, Rody Roem, Michael Salven are just a few I've spoken personally with about this) recommend anymore.

From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC (bottom dead center), and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this manner for about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your engine will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your engine's compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.

You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory engine settings are very rich on every engine I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.

Rick Brake @ RB Mods -
"Hope this helps; give this break-in method a shot--you have nothing to gain except longer life & more power. Use a MC 59 or the hottest plug you can get and burn 30% nitro. Keep your cool and be patient, It will come in to Itís own after about a gallon of fuel."
This is the process I use and I think it is the best way to do it. I have done 2 motors this way and both are doing really well.
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Old 12-01-2008, 06:59 PM   #42
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your proly right casey i got this method a year ago off the RB forum from Rody he said this is how the rb team bench breaksin their engines. i did this for the first times last feb and blew the conrod after 1 gallon lol!
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Old 12-01-2008, 07:02 PM   #43
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funny you say that i have used Rody's method about 7 times and never blew a conrod, i doubt it was the break in method unless you did it wrong.
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Old 12-01-2008, 07:21 PM   #44
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you might be right im not blaming it on the break but its the only conrod i've broken that early in the life of a engine. it was a axe rossi i should add and they do have a lot of pinch early on. i have heard of conrods breaking alot in the axe rossis.
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Old 12-01-2008, 08:58 PM   #45
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i know what you mean. i got one axe rossi a mamba and that is the first thing someone told me was about the conrod, well 2 gallons later and all good. i like that engine. i am going to wait a while before i look into the new plus 4.
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