Frank L

iTrader: (148)

I am going to try out out a mugen 2042 pipe which is OEM 2060 and a L-type header. I have been told this is the best of all worlds. I ran a dyn 053 with a med header last time that didnt work to bad, it did seem to cut the top off a little bit. The 053 with a long header was no good, the speed felt flat.

Hans_Andersson

I was about to ask that. I guess The zip tie "ends" goes into the port holes(!?). Im going to try with the heat gun since it didnt even budge.

losi_racer

iTrader: (25)

how much power loss will i see going from the stock os res. (blue which is 8mm i think) to a grp 7??? i need a lot of mid range. how i have it right now the engine preforms great, no issues. its still breakin in i have like 3/4 of a gallon thru it. i was pitting at 7.5 min and still had fuel left, i wanna be able to do 10 min, but have power still. i know track,clutch, throttle control etc will play into run time. idk if i can hit 10 min with as big of a track as i run on but the more runtime i have the better

lowey79

The pipe you run play the biggest difference to run times... Looking at your sig, you have the AE2035 in a truggy with you're Vspec? You should get close to 10 mins with that set-up and a 7mm restrictor. If not, you could try either of the new Losi pipes. They are very similar to the OS pipes but are much cheaper! I believe the RE-11 is a direct copy of the OS 2050. The RE-10 is apparently similar to the 2060 but i'm not as sure?

Frank L

iTrader: (148)

I have had engnes that I could get 11 min out of in the morening and then need to pit at 8-9 in the afternoon in the main. Drive style and weather play a big role. Try an eb mods head button (same one that goes in the ninja) Tonys screws or lucky 7 has them. This will give you more power so you aren't on the gas as hard. I just put one in and will try itnout this weekend. The ae pipe you have is ok a Mugen 2042 is a copy of he os 2060. That pipe with the L type headed is the hot ticket in a truggy. Once again testing this weekend.

losi_racer

iTrader: (25)

ok, once i get past the metal pinch and throw a new ninja rod in ill prob play with restrictiors

NewOne

iTrader: (7)

I have one of the old blue headed v-specs bought 18 months ago at 7 gallons I put a new front bearing and a conrod in it and it just hit 14 gallons a few months ago but I lost an air filter (My Bad) so it's time for a full rebuild now.

ridgerunner1

iTrader: (21)

Well guys after doing some reading though the forums on the v-spec and seen them run i have made the jump and just bought two O.S. 21VZ-B V-Spec-T (P) from a-main for my truggy and buggy, Should be here in a week so if i got any questions I'll be sure to come back the first thing is i'll take it apart check it out clean it up and then seal it up i'll let you know how it goes.

lowey79

I personally think it's a good idea to remove the back plate and head from any new engine and flush it out with clean fuel just to be sure there is no debris inside!
Also, V-spec's like the heat cycle method for break-in... Refer to the break-in bible thread at the top of this forum!

Frank L

iTrader: (148)

+1 on the heat cycle method. Best method I have ever seen.

ridgerunner1

iTrader: (21)

Yup that's what i do is heat cycle, Never noticed that post before lowey79 was very good reading, A-main = fast shipping they sent it out the next day so should have them both by monday or tuesday.

losi_racer

iTrader: (25)

ok guys i need ideas to be jumped off me.


My vspec is doing great, tune seems perfect but something off, i dont like to go fishing on tune.and i know you cant really give me a for sure thing but ideas are nice....


tonight i ran my vspec, after my 20 min main temps were at 220(exergen temp)

high end seems good, i was pulling from everyone at the end of the straight, but it doesnt sound lean. my low end sounds good. i wait 8 sec then punch it, no hesitation. my idle is ok when its idleing, i have to tap the throttle to get it to idle right, if not it will sound like i have the throttle open a little.

but this is what puzzling me, and maybe the idle thing plays apart of it. my low end sounds great but if i dont keep tapping it or clear it out then about 12-15 sec it will load up and die. i start it back up clear it out and it sounds fine. i dont wanna lean the lsn any more because it raises temps.last time i did it it pulled from the race at 275) and if i richen the hsn to compensate for the higher temps it falls on its face and cant make any jumps?

o and btw ive gone thru 3 plugs since break n, i know one was due to my lean low.

lowey79

Idling high is a sign that the LSN is a tad rich and your idle gap too wide... You may also have an air leak?

offr0aden

iTrader: (6)

Good call ...

I went to a local park and put on a set of old tires to see how my high side would clear (In a 30 foot 50 foot and 100 foot stretch) anyway, on the dirt my low side would load up smoke but clear out, then I started leaning out the low side and the idle started to stay raised, then after a couple ticks, it was clearing out on the low side and flying on the high. I still see a trail of smoke on the low side and a tiny bit on the high. And the funny thing is the temps never hit over 180 (Outside temps 85 and humid). But at the track my run times have been around 6 - 7 minutes.

So I put in a tank full after setting the needles and I know my run times are closer to 8 or 9 minutes now. And, the temps are ready to track tune.

losi_racer - make small adjustments on the slide (Low side) and if the idle stays up and doesn't come back down after a long enough run to clear out the engine then bring down the idle stop a half a tick at a time. A full tick being from 12 to 11 on a clock and half that for a half tick.

mattyb13

iTrader: (1)

Is there any difference between the 2008 V-Spec and the 2009 version that would cause me to be concerned before picking up the 2008 version? Thnx.