Go-Tech Engines Thread
#151
Tech Champion
iTrader: (10)
HECK! if everyone looked at products through rose coloured glasses then no thing would be improved. i'd rather state the facts, and have it improved than agree to stay silent. I don't need to kiss bum to prove anything, i buy a product,a nd express the issues i had with it, in an effort for peopel to know what the issues may be before buying a product.
take a look at my comments about the crf on the onroad forum Massive, do i praise it unconditionally?! no
Take a look at the mtx4 forum? do i or others praise it uncoditionally? no
#152
Tech Adept
iTrader: (6)
Not to keep adding to the "Oprah" lovefest, but most of those issues have been resolved. Your april engine I believe had the 1st gen carb with the idle needle on the bottom when the carb is oriented the "right" way. The current gen carb has the idle needle on top for easier adjustment. One of the guys at my track has the first gen carb and the plastic sleeve on the carb would come off until he JB welded it. My 1st 5 port bought in june with the new carb has no sleeve issues and no air leaks. Heck my nova 21bf and my C6BB7T developed leaky fron bearings around the 3-4 gallon mark and my oldest 5 port's front bearing seal is still holding well. I agree with you on the outside finish of the engine however. I have nova/rb engines (C6BB7T) also and if you put them side by side, the RB/Nova's have a more "expensive" look/feel. Also Rocket now includes extra head shims with the motors for easier tuning when running 30% fuel. None of my rb's/nova's came with extra shims BTW. As in all motors shimmed for 20-25% you can run them without extra shims on 30%, but adding a shim makes them easier to tune when running near sea level with higher barometric pressure.
#153
turn it up massive. read my post. i said i liked the engine but it has some issues. My original post is vindicated by the fact that rocket agreed with me that the carby is an issue. instead of having a whinge admit it dude. I have a right to say what i said anyway. Also my engine is not old, i bought it at the start of the year around april. hardly "old" i got no issue with the engine, but i do have an issue when i get people telling me not to say stuff, when clearly, as rocket has shown by agreeing with me that there is an issue.
HECK! if everyone looked at products through rose coloured glasses then no thing would be improved. i'd rather state the facts, and have it improved than agree to stay silent. I don't need to kiss bum to prove anything, i buy a product,a nd express the issues i had with it, in an effort for peopel to know what the issues may be before buying a product.
take a look at my comments about the crf on the onroad forum Massive, do i praise it unconditionally?! no
Take a look at the mtx4 forum? do i or others praise it uncoditionally? no
HECK! if everyone looked at products through rose coloured glasses then no thing would be improved. i'd rather state the facts, and have it improved than agree to stay silent. I don't need to kiss bum to prove anything, i buy a product,a nd express the issues i had with it, in an effort for peopel to know what the issues may be before buying a product.
take a look at my comments about the crf on the onroad forum Massive, do i praise it unconditionally?! no
Take a look at the mtx4 forum? do i or others praise it uncoditionally? no
#155
ok let me add a grain of salt to this oprah winfrey love fest show we have here.
sure the go tech is great, but there are a few issues. let me outline them.
1) the carby. the seal between the metal section and the plastic sections of the carby allows air to enter, ruining the tune. How do i know this? most owners of go's in australia have fixed the problem by placing jb weld around this joint
2)the quality is very good yes, and machining is great, but certain cosmetic finish issues still remain. sure not a big woop, but it helps sell an engine (minor point, granted)
3)there is a revised low end needle from what i have been told. hence original carby low end needle is not really designed well (course thread i am imagining, and hence hard to get fine tune) i've experienced this whilst trying to tune my low end.at one fraction its rich, and another it's lean.
4) engine does not come with enough headshims as standard. sure not a massive point, but you want to buy it off the shelf ready, and not be required to read up on a forum to learn what is needed
JUST FIX THE BLOODY CARBY GO TECH!!
sure the go tech is great, but there are a few issues. let me outline them.
1) the carby. the seal between the metal section and the plastic sections of the carby allows air to enter, ruining the tune. How do i know this? most owners of go's in australia have fixed the problem by placing jb weld around this joint
2)the quality is very good yes, and machining is great, but certain cosmetic finish issues still remain. sure not a big woop, but it helps sell an engine (minor point, granted)
3)there is a revised low end needle from what i have been told. hence original carby low end needle is not really designed well (course thread i am imagining, and hence hard to get fine tune) i've experienced this whilst trying to tune my low end.at one fraction its rich, and another it's lean.
4) engine does not come with enough headshims as standard. sure not a massive point, but you want to buy it off the shelf ready, and not be required to read up on a forum to learn what is needed
JUST FIX THE BLOODY CARBY GO TECH!!
I know what your going through I also got a 7port with the first generation carb big issues including the plactic sleeve on the carb disintergrating on me. I was lucky enough to have the New Zealand distributor replace the carb free of charge with the 2nd gen carb and man what a difference this motor is now insane
the new carbs are alot more like a novarossi carb the idle screw is now situated on top of the carb instead of below and I have no problems with tuning or the engine holding a tune what so ever. they've also gotten rid of the plastic sleeve it's now ali with 2 rubber O-rings
so as to your last statment I think you'll find that GoTech have sorted out thier carb issues if you can get hold of a 2nd gen carb you wont be dissapointed
Adrian
#156
Tech Champion
iTrader: (10)
Hey tomB
I know what your going through I also got a 7port with the first generation carb big issues including the plactic sleeve on the carb disintergrating on me. I was lucky enough to have the New Zealand distributor replace the carb free of charge with the 2nd gen carb and man what a difference this motor is now insane
the new carbs are alot more like a novarossi carb the idle screw is now situated on top of the carb instead of below and I have no problems with tuning or the engine holding a tune what so ever. they've also gotten rid of the plastic sleeve it's now ali with 2 rubber O-rings
so as to your last statment I think you'll find that GoTech have sorted out thier carb issues if you can get hold of a 2nd gen carb you wont be dissapointed
Adrian
I know what your going through I also got a 7port with the first generation carb big issues including the plactic sleeve on the carb disintergrating on me. I was lucky enough to have the New Zealand distributor replace the carb free of charge with the 2nd gen carb and man what a difference this motor is now insane
the new carbs are alot more like a novarossi carb the idle screw is now situated on top of the carb instead of below and I have no problems with tuning or the engine holding a tune what so ever. they've also gotten rid of the plastic sleeve it's now ali with 2 rubber O-rings
so as to your last statment I think you'll find that GoTech have sorted out thier carb issues if you can get hold of a 2nd gen carb you wont be dissapointed
Adrian
no worries. the NZ distributor is the Aussie distributor as well isn't he? ....i'll see what i can get
#157
massive mods are auzzie distributors now and prosport rc is the NZ distributor so shoot Mark at massive mods a PM and I'm sure he'll help you out
Adrian
#158
i was curious is the turbo head on the 7 port diffrent then the standard? i have a standard motor and its prolly one of the best things ive done is to run this motor. now im wanting the go 7 port turbo motor as my wrist pin came out in the other 7 port i got. so there for i need to know someone that will take paypal and will get m a new turbo 7 port here by thursday..
#159
the 7port normaly comes with a standard head although I believe you can now buy them with a turbo head in the states
I run a turbo head on my 7port and it definately makes a diference
I run a turbo head on my 7port and it definately makes a diference
#160
Having a bit of trouble with my 5port after putting in a turbo head button. It's not idling well and keeps flaming out. I had to richen it up with turbo head to keep temps in line. I used a rb6 plug, then tried a rb5 and an os6. Left same shims in it that used with standard head. I'm running trinity monster horsepower 30%, motor has just over a gallon on it. Any help would be appreciated.Pooldoc
#161
Tech Initiate
Having a bit of trouble with my 5port after putting in a turbo head button. It's not idling well and keeps flaming out. I had to richen it up with turbo head to keep temps in line. I used a rb6 plug, then tried a rb5 and an os6. Left same shims in it that used with standard head. I'm running trinity monster horsepower 30%, motor has just over a gallon on it. Any help would be appreciated.Pooldoc
#162
Tech Champion
iTrader: (10)
Having a bit of trouble with my 5port after putting in a turbo head button. It's not idling well and keeps flaming out. I had to richen it up with turbo head to keep temps in line. I used a rb6 plug, then tried a rb5 and an os6. Left same shims in it that used with standard head. I'm running trinity monster horsepower 30%, motor has just over a gallon on it. Any help would be appreciated.Pooldoc
#163
Tech Fanatic
Well I've got 5 gallons through my 5 port and I put a new rod in a gallon ago.
Unfortunately it's giving me problems. It won't idle properly and won't stay running. It also is eating plugs.
It's probably time to pull a head shim to raise compression. And if that doesn't work either pinch the piston (which I don't care for) or a new piston/sleeve.
Unfortunately it's giving me problems. It won't idle properly and won't stay running. It also is eating plugs.
It's probably time to pull a head shim to raise compression. And if that doesn't work either pinch the piston (which I don't care for) or a new piston/sleeve.
#164
You may also want to check if the engine has sucked some glow plugs that the top of the piston and the comustion chamber is in good shape still. When you say eaten is the element gone or just won't heat. If it is gone then I would check how bad the damage is to the chamber. If it is not so bad you can clean it back to new with some lapping compound a cordless drill and some steel wool that is medium to fine grade. It will take the marks out of the chamber and the compound will polish it back up.If the chamber is not smooth and clean (meaning no dimples or marks from detonation) it can and most of the time will adversly affect engine performance. I do not think that your idle is related to it. The base idle will be more then likely a needle setting,idle setting,or air leak. Head shimming will not really affect the idle unless it is so far off there is way to much volume the head being lifted to high. So check those. If you need anything in more detail IM me and I will answe whatever you may need to know for what I have spoke of.
#165
Tech Fanatic
I'll tear it down tonight and see the shape of the piston top, the bearings and just clean it out thoroughly. Then I'll seal it up good and hope for the best.