369LikesSeattle RC Racers/Hangar 30
10-07-2015, 07:40 PM
10-08-2015, 03:32 AM
How popular is f1 and how many f1's show up? What do I need to get my F104pro up to speed?
10-08-2015, 07:29 AM
We haven't run F1 for a year, but there seems to be a following. We'll find out over the next couple races. But, I am sure there will be a heat of cars this Saturday.
As for how to make them work, the biggest thing is of course tires. The Pits are the go-to, whether Tamiya bagged or otherwise. The rest of it is just the usual making sure it's mechanically sound and in good repair.
Well, and, deftly coordinated throttle and steering inputs for the full six minutes and not overdriving. But that's the universal thing
As for how to make them work, the biggest thing is of course tires. The Pits are the go-to, whether Tamiya bagged or otherwise. The rest of it is just the usual making sure it's mechanically sound and in good repair.
Well, and, deftly coordinated throttle and steering inputs for the full six minutes and not overdriving. But that's the universal thing
10-08-2015, 08:11 AM
10-08-2015, 08:57 AM
The big question for this Sat is: are we going to have a "Todd-Dot" sighting?
10-08-2015, 12:00 PM
Yes. I have protos.
10-08-2015, 03:22 PM
http://www.rctech.net/forum/northwes...northwest.html
some of the guys that post there are tamiya specific, personally i would reccomend ditching the tamiya and going with a newer car, even if its used
suggestions would be vbc lighting F or FX
xray x1, crc wtf1, or even the new tamiya trf102
i have found that the new cars are more stable and less finicky than the older tamiyas which will provide more positive overall experience.
remember its pronounced tameeyaa
10-08-2015, 03:52 PM
for specific f1 questions you can go here
http://www.rctech.net/forum/northwes...northwest.html
some of the guys that post there are tamiya specific, personally i would reccomend ditching the tamiya and going with a newer car, even if its used
suggestions would be vbc lighting F or FX
xray x1, crc wtf1, or even the new tamiya trf102
i have found that the new cars are more stable and less finicky than the older tamiyas which will provide more positive overall experience.
remember its pronounced tameeyaa
http://www.rctech.net/forum/northwes...northwest.html
some of the guys that post there are tamiya specific, personally i would reccomend ditching the tamiya and going with a newer car, even if its used
suggestions would be vbc lighting F or FX
xray x1, crc wtf1, or even the new tamiya trf102
i have found that the new cars are more stable and less finicky than the older tamiyas which will provide more positive overall experience.
remember its pronounced tameeyaa
I hope I can stop by soon and watch and learn.
Reason Im sticking with the 104 is I already have it and a lot of parts and plan on a few more. I cant justify another $200 to $400 car plus parts etc just to be a back marker anyway. Maybe in the future who knows, but I was never good with pan cars, ran carpet/paved oval in 90s. Mostly successful in offroad and dirt oval.
I do have 1 set of TCS tires. I was just at Galaxy, but their parts is almost non existant. Guess Ill order online.
My friend and his dad have f1, and we would probably be fine battling it out like we do in scale hydroplanes.
10-09-2015, 01:53 PM
Can someone refresh my memory, doors at the CC are at 5pm tomorrow?
I-90 is getting reduced to 1 lane going West so I'm trying to plan my drive in.
I-90 is getting reduced to 1 lane going West so I'm trying to plan my drive in.
10-09-2015, 02:25 PM
10/10
I was a little unclear on that too. The website still says doors and setup begins at 3, first qualifier goes off at 5?
10-09-2015, 02:39 PM
Err... the website is probably right and my memory (and ability to reason) are faulty. 3pm would make more sense, though I think that changes to 4pm later in the season. I'll await verification but will aim for a pre-3pm arrival.
10-09-2015, 03:19 PM
never mind
Last edited by OVA; 10-09-2015 at 05:16 PM.
10-09-2015, 03:53 PM
Your F104 will work just fine on the carpet and is still arguable the best asphalt car available. The tcs or shimuza (571/572) will work very well. be sure not to sauce the entire front tire and you will want to reduce front sauce as the grip builds through the night. On carpet your tires wont show the same visible wear they do on pavement to tell you when they are done, look for the fronts to start feeling softer and the rears to become inconsistent with a loss of forward traction. I have found i can race the entire on carpet season on a couple sets of new tires.
On the 104pro you will want to use the "high traction" t-bar, its the white one with the horseshoe cutout. set your diff so it is smooth but tight enough so that when hold the right wheel and spur you can't turn the left. use tiiny bit of ball diff grease on the damper plates and build the shock with the stock oil and limiters; use the softest spring you have. start with the #1 camber plate setting and no uptravel limitation. you will also want to mount your electronics on the mounting wings and move your battery front to back adjust the balance to your liking. use the #0 axle insert in the rear and start with the chassis on a level plane. 1-2 toe out is a good starting point with maximum ackerman.
Spares to carry for that model would be t-bars (the most common breakage), gear box parts tree (the t-bar mount can break) and the front arm parts tree. The diff, axle, shock and spindles are virtually indestructible.
If you need any parts I will bring have 104 stuff with me, just look for the bar honda f1.
Mark
10-09-2015, 04:15 PM
Although F1 was not on the hanger schedule last year I expect it to have a stable turnout all season long.
Your F104 will work just fine on the carpet and is still arguable the best asphalt car available. The tcs or shimuza (571/572) will work very well. be sure not to sauce the entire front tire and you will want to reduce front sauce as the grip builds through the night. On carpet your tires wont show the same visible wear they do on pavement to tell you when they are done, look for the fronts to start feeling softer and the rears to become inconsistent with a loss of forward traction. I have found i can race the entire on carpet season on a couple sets of new tires.
On the 104pro you will want to use the "high traction" t-bar, its the white one with the horseshoe cutout. set your diff so it is smooth but tight enough so that when hold the right wheel and spur you can't turn the left. use tiiny bit of ball diff grease on the damper plates and build the shock with the stock oil and limiters; use the softest spring you have. start with the #1 camber plate setting and no uptravel limitation. you will also want to mount your electronics on the mounting wings and move your battery front to back adjust the balance to your liking. use the #0 axle insert in the rear and start with the chassis on a level plane. 1-2 toe out is a good starting point with maximum ackerman.
Spares to carry for that model would be t-bars (the most common breakage), gear box parts tree (the t-bar mount can break) and the front arm parts tree. The diff, axle, shock and spindles are virtually indestructible.
If you need any parts I will bring have 104 stuff with me, just look for the bar honda f1.
Mark
Your F104 will work just fine on the carpet and is still arguable the best asphalt car available. The tcs or shimuza (571/572) will work very well. be sure not to sauce the entire front tire and you will want to reduce front sauce as the grip builds through the night. On carpet your tires wont show the same visible wear they do on pavement to tell you when they are done, look for the fronts to start feeling softer and the rears to become inconsistent with a loss of forward traction. I have found i can race the entire on carpet season on a couple sets of new tires.
On the 104pro you will want to use the "high traction" t-bar, its the white one with the horseshoe cutout. set your diff so it is smooth but tight enough so that when hold the right wheel and spur you can't turn the left. use tiiny bit of ball diff grease on the damper plates and build the shock with the stock oil and limiters; use the softest spring you have. start with the #1 camber plate setting and no uptravel limitation. you will also want to mount your electronics on the mounting wings and move your battery front to back adjust the balance to your liking. use the #0 axle insert in the rear and start with the chassis on a level plane. 1-2 toe out is a good starting point with maximum ackerman.
Spares to carry for that model would be t-bars (the most common breakage), gear box parts tree (the t-bar mount can break) and the front arm parts tree. The diff, axle, shock and spindles are virtually indestructible.
If you need any parts I will bring have 104 stuff with me, just look for the bar honda f1.
Mark
That's the good info I needed! I intend to go over the car as I bought it used a few years ago. But it seems pretty smooth. It also has a LRP for brushed motors and a stock rs540. Gearing is 25/94, but I have a lot of pinions plus the 104 spur. I do plan on a hobbywing esc and 21.5 at some point.
10-09-2015, 05:04 PM
is there any substitutes for the rear x1 dampner grease, diff grease and front king pin grease? I don't see the Tamiya stuff offered anymore...