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Old 03-12-2006, 07:40 PM   #1
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Default ‘FWR Racing Season’

Some of you may have heard that we were trying to start the 2006 season by March 12th (today). Unfortunately the modifications to the bus are not complete. I believe there will be another work party next Saturday.

We have a new paint (white) on the bus, the drivers stand is being powder coated, new steps for the race directors door, working on a backup power supply incase the land lines go out, and wiring the power supply at the new track.
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Old 03-12-2006, 07:49 PM   #2
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Talking FWR

Thanks for the update I was starting to wonder when we go racing outside (berrrr) again .

OOPS I sold All my outdoor cars (I need a new outdoor car anyway)

Mabe I will just do nitro sedan this year .

I got me an F1 but we wil see how things go at the track.
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Old 03-12-2006, 08:01 PM   #3
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So, what kind of surface is at the new location?
When do you guys start your racing season?
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Old 03-12-2006, 09:24 PM   #4
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So when do you anticipate starting the season?
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Old 03-13-2006, 07:05 PM   #5
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The surface is similar to the old location in that it is asphalt. The good news is that is it newer, hasn't been resealed, is in the back of the shopping area that doesn't get many cars parking on it at all, don't remember seeing a crack or hump anywhere. Looks like a lot more traction.

Starting the season?
Right now the stand from on top of the bus is in 8 pieces and has been sent to a powder coating shop. If it gets back before this Saturday, and if enough people are available to help put it back on, there will be talk about racing this Sunday, but no promises. I can't say for sure as I will not be available to race for the next few Sundays anyway. It will be up to YBD, the Mikes, Jose, and whoever else is there to voice an opinion on which Sunday to start.
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Old 03-13-2006, 07:37 PM   #6
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Damn! I've got a hangnail.

Tell you what, We really need someone who knows electrical wiring to step forward, could use some help on wiring the light pole to provide power to the bus, also wire the generator we installed in the bus, etc........
I can muddle through, but would like expert help on electrical wiring.

call me at 253-332-3710 or get ahold of our buddy Dave

keep checking here on the agenda for getting ready, volunteer's?
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Old 03-13-2006, 08:46 PM   #7
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Red wire positive,
Black wire negative.

This is your brain on 220 volts. Any questions?

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Old 03-13-2006, 09:21 PM   #8
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sorry dood. white wire positive. black neg. 220 diferent color coding. white wire common to being hot wire. black or green is ground. 220 be nasty. hurts like hell. worse than being hit in the ankle by a nitro car.
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Old 03-13-2006, 10:21 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drakonis
sorry dood. white wire positive. black neg. 220 diferent color coding. white wire common to being hot wire. black or green is ground. 220 be nasty. hurts like hell. worse than being hit in the ankle by a nitro car.
we live in a RC world where red is always positive and black negative
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Old 03-13-2006, 10:23 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by busman
Damn! I've got a hangnail.

Tell you what, We really need someone who knows electrical wiring to step forward, could use some help on wiring the light pole to provide power to the bus, also wire the generator we installed in the bus, etc........
I can muddle through, but would like expert help on electrical wiring.

call me at 253-332-3710 or get ahold of our buddy Dave

keep checking here on the agenda for getting ready, volunteer's?
Mike,
I wont volunteer for wiring (because you want guaranteed and safe power to the racers, right? ) but I will help in any way I can. I usually have weekends off. What kind of help do you need and where do I show up?

Andre
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Last edited by nordheim; 03-13-2006 at 10:35 PM.
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Old 03-13-2006, 10:25 PM   #11
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Exclamation and this is why electrictions charge 220 an HOUR

and this is why electricians charge 220 an HOUR

if I remember 220 has like

4 wire 220
RED = HOT -110 volts (low side) still 110
GREEN = ground
WHITE = neutral or NEAR ground
BLACK = HOT +110 (High side)

never use both RED and BLACK at the same time to power 110v stuff

white and black for one side 110 or red and white for the other side of 110 but never both.


3 wire 220
GREEN = ground
WHITE = HOT -110 volts (low side) still 110
BLACK = HOT +110 (High side)

NOTE white is on the HOT side now and you don't have a neutral so you Cannot get 110 from this ...

I could be wrong though (I never wired a LIGHT POLE)

warning if you do use both to get more power then if 2 people pit next to you or the buss and the grounds inside the little Power supplies are the floating ground type then if you grab one PS with one hand and the other PS with the other hand you will get a nasty shock or a LAW SUIT or worse

when I worked in a restaurant along time ago we had a problem with the cooling units motors being wired differently and of you washed the floor and then touched both coolers at the same time you would get a nasty shock I got my share of them until they changed the motor in the bigger freezer...



I DONT MEAN TO YELL BUT REMEMBER ALWAYS USE A METER AND REFERENCE EVERYTHING TO REAL GROUND!!!!! OR YOU COULD GET ZAPPED REALY BAD

I'm just glad I made the scoreboard work on 12v

I think you really you need a certified electrician and a permit to derive power from the light POLE anyway..
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Last edited by Skruger; 03-13-2006 at 10:55 PM.
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Old 03-14-2006, 05:16 AM   #12
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Maybe you should concider the permit requirements of Washington State. For your liability status, I would suggest having a union shop (or at least a bonded licenced shop if you don't like unions) do the installation and thereby you'll be in good standing with the insurance company in the event of something catastrophic happening.

I see you have a fantastic bunch of amateurs around you and they all look really dangerous. Spend a little money and have a guarrenteed power supply.

Jacko. Local 48 Portland.
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Old 03-14-2006, 06:39 AM   #13
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Just a note. The light poles you are refering to are wired 110V. most likely 20 amp circuit for all the poles.
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Old 03-14-2006, 07:37 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Fog
Maybe you should concider the permit requirements of Washington State. For your liability status, I would suggest having a union shop (or at least a bonded licenced shop if you don't like unions) do the installation and thereby you'll be in good standing with the insurance company in the event of something catastrophic happening.

I see you have a fantastic bunch of amateurs around you and they all look really dangerous. Spend a little money and have a guarrenteed power supply.

Jacko. Local 48 Portland.
Dont believe that any of us "amateurs" would try to get this done. I am sure that YBD will be using the right resources when it comes to getting this project done. Also, who cant be an RC racer on the side and an electrician by day? We were just joking around. That's how you keep the thread at the top
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Old 03-14-2006, 08:15 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Exterminator
Just a note. The light poles you are refering to are wired 110V. most likely 20 amp circuit for all the poles.
Most likely they are 440V or 227V Tim ....

most I work on R 440V to lower amp draw...

also

most are on a timer, some R switch on by electric eye....

So if the lights are not on , the power is`nt either.
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