I hate Centax clutches!!!!
04-28-2006, 12:52 PM
#46
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Originally Posted by TRFTIM
Cheers Glen thats great i seemed to fo cracked it!! 
It was the spacers to take up end play that were way out........I have used 10mm diameter washers instead of the 6mm:7mm will this affect the bearing inthe long run or is this just fine ( please tell me this is ok as the motors in the serpent now)
Thanks again guys this really is a cool site and you guys know your S!:;T
It was the spacers to take up end play that were way out........I have used 10mm diameter washers instead of the 6mm:7mm will this affect the bearing inthe long run or is this just fine ( please tell me this is ok as the motors in the serpent now)
Thanks again guys this really is a cool site and you guys know your S!:;T
You really should use the proper sized shims in the proper locations. I know on the Serpent Centax clutches, the gap shims (on thrustbearing) are much larger inner/outer diameter than the endplay shim (on crankshaft)... the endplay shims have a really skinny width... 0.5mm wide I think.
The reason to use the proper shims is that:
* you know they will always just slip on without problem
* if the outer diameter is too large, it may contact the inside of the spinning clutchbell & other parts... resulting in nasty effects...
04-28-2006, 01:32 PM
#47
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
For my RB V12 Rody 3 port std I used one .5mm shime behind the collet, the adjuster nut was screwed down about 1.5mm and for shims I used two silver and two brass. That setup on both my MT12 and RB V12 Rody offered me SICK acceleration and perfect engagement. Since I did encounter rust on some aprts after not lubing it when left for a long time, I just swapped over to the CD3 pro clutch. My LHS took to long for getting me the item and I couldn't wait any longer. 
Regardless I never had a problem with the R40 clutch truthfully. Even though the spring is softer, I just tightened it down a little more. Both my friend and I ran the same stock clutch and after sharing my secret, he liked the car even better.
I no longer have the R40 though...hehe.
Regardless I never had a problem with the R40 clutch truthfully. Even though the spring is softer, I just tightened it down a little more. Both my friend and I ran the same stock clutch and after sharing my secret, he liked the car even better. I no longer have the R40 though...hehe.
04-28-2006, 08:43 PM
#48
Originally Posted by Car Breaker
I love Centax centax III isn't that bad, I have no trouble using it before I sell 710.
there 2 centax that pissed me off are the R40 centax and Reflex centax, other then that, I love Centax
centax III isn't that bad, I have no trouble using it before I sell 710.there 2 centax that pissed me off are the R40 centax and Reflex centax, other then that, I love Centax
On another note, i got to play with the centax on my dad's V1RRR before i brought my mtx-3, but it still took me 3 days to figure out the clutch on my mtx-3.
04-28-2006, 09:05 PM
#49
Originally Posted by sharkonwheels
Found it - V1-RRR That'll work on the FW-05R/RR?
Can't seem to find the K-Factory anywhere. Part # is K1914
Can't seem to find the K-Factory anywhere. Part # is K1914
From I have read the flywheels are the same dimensions/diameter (RRR/FW); however, the FW's wheel is lighter.
05-18-2006, 09:14 AM
#50
I'll have to post up some pictures once I get home. I've tried the setup as mentioned for my clutch, but once I tighten down that machine screw, there is no play at all, regardless if I have that inner bearing in or not. I'll check to see if the outer bearing is seated correctly, but I believe it is.
05-18-2006, 09:40 AM
#51
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by performula
www.gasrccar.com - go to the bottom of the page and click on the full inventory listing and scroll down. They are in order.
From I have read the flywheels are the same dimensions/diameter (RRR/FW); however, the FW's wheel is lighter.
From I have read the flywheels are the same dimensions/diameter (RRR/FW); however, the FW's wheel is lighter.
Didn't even see your reply.
My LHS had a V1-RRR complete clutch setup in stock. Worked fine. All I did was change out the spring, so as to engage a little sooner.
05-18-2006, 09:47 AM
#52
I am thinking, with the techonolgy right now of making VIDEO (online streaming, BT, download...etc)..........how hard to have someone (Glenn, are you listening...? LOL) to make a VIDEO clip about setting up CENTAX 1 (for almost all the TC) 2 for Serpent 1/10 and 1/8 and 3 for 710 specifily but 2 might be the most needed...?
If someone doing that...in VCD, DVD or even online pay per view...I really do not mind to spend $20 for one of those...even though i know my setup is NOT too far from Glenn's or Serpents....but always want to have a real person do back up my setup...
Just an idea...
If someone doing that...in VCD, DVD or even online pay per view...I really do not mind to spend $20 for one of those...even though i know my setup is NOT too far from Glenn's or Serpents....but always want to have a real person do back up my setup...
Just an idea...
05-18-2006, 09:55 AM
#53
Originally Posted by GlennCauley
I don't know what the R40 clutch is like... whether it like Serpent's Centax 1, 2 or 3. But it's a bit of a catch-22 trying to get any clutch to engage at low RPM without slipping like mad. But why would you want hard, solid engagement at lower RPM anyways? It goes against physics... at low RPM you cannot get a lot of power down (with a 2-stroke engine) since the engine is not in its best rev/power range.
Also, your post #42, somehow, I have a feeling, is a lot easier to understand for a lot of ppl then your writeup on Mytsn (there is nothing wrong with your writeup there)........but I just think this one is most "right on the money".
And also, leaving the outward bearing inside the clutch along the thrust bearing inside for the clutch gap setting (measurment on step1) was NOT mentioned by Serpent manual, and the manual diagram (and the wording direction) does not show there are any bearing (big and small) inside...no wonder he has all the screw up measurement and setting.....leaving the outside bearing inside the clutch housing was standard since CENTAX 1...ppl that has dealt with Centax 1 and older centax will know this trick.
Last edited by Rookie Solara; 05-18-2006 at 10:30 AM.
05-18-2006, 10:25 AM
#54
Well I accomplished what I wanted. I used a softer spring from a GS car. Now my clutch engages at low rpm , no slip. I do get some engine bog , but im getting on the gas earlier...car is very settled and I can apply some helper throttle mid corner no problems...
05-18-2006, 10:33 AM
#55
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Well I accomplished what I wanted. I used a softer spring from a GS car. Now my clutch engages at low rpm , no slip. I do get some engine bog , but im getting on the gas earlier...car is very settled and I can apply some helper throttle mid corner no problems...
I do remember how I took care of that low RPM and quick engagment on short and tight track with my IMPULSE before.......not using CENTAX, use the stock 2 shoes swing clutch, works great.
05-18-2006, 10:46 AM
#56
Thats funny you mention that clutch , thats what type of engagement I was going for and.......I have it! I used to run the racer2 and this is what im used to. Yes I run a parkinglot track that is tight , basically a good 19T electric touring track.
I have some video of my car last race , ill post it up soon. This also enabled me to get TQ last race. As well I had 25% fuel left in the tank.
Slight throttle blips get my car moving.
I have some video of my car last race , ill post it up soon. This also enabled me to get TQ last race. As well I had 25% fuel left in the tank.
Slight throttle blips get my car moving.
05-18-2006, 11:43 AM
#58
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Originally Posted by Rookie Solara
I am thinking, with the techonolgy right now of making VIDEO (online streaming, BT, download...etc)..........how hard to have someone (Glenn, are you listening...? LOL) to make a VIDEO clip about setting up CENTAX 1 (for almost all the TC) 2 for Serpent 1/10 and 1/8 and 3 for 710 specifily but 2 might be the most needed...?
If someone doing that...in VCD, DVD or even online pay per view...I really do not mind to spend $20 for one of those...even though i know my setup is NOT too far from Glenn's or Serpents....but always want to have a real person do back up my setup...
Just an idea...
If someone doing that...in VCD, DVD or even online pay per view...I really do not mind to spend $20 for one of those...even though i know my setup is NOT too far from Glenn's or Serpents....but always want to have a real person do back up my setup...
Just an idea...
I wouldn't want to break an expensive video camera by having it focus on me. Maybe I'd do like one of those informants... have my face in shadow and my voice electronically altered.
All kidding aside, this is an idea worth considering...
05-18-2006, 12:19 PM
#60
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
If you get one of those dark masks and alter your voice , that would make the video +1. 
I also said same thing to cyrul , he needs to make a video. I started to do one , but I need an assistant.
I also said same thing to cyrul , he needs to make a video. I started to do one , but I need an assistant.Yeah, I had thought about doing something like that a long time ago, for a software demonstration.
To make it good, you have to really plan it out... plan all the scripts, storyboarding, shots/closeups, etc. etc...