Keep Tc3 or get Nt1??
#46
Correct... Very simple install, but I have not really tested it on a prepped track. On the street, I see a better support for the rear of the body, and a bit more rear traction...
I also use the thickest gold swaybar in my ntc3 front and rear, with the blade swaybar at the stiffest settings in front, and 45 degrees in the rear... That stopped the heavy sway I use to have in the corners at the track, but I realized that I still needed alot of weight to come off the top of the chassis to really cure the problem, hence the lowered towers/shocks/body, etc...
I also cut my bodies enough to have them weigh about 85grams or less: no windows except the winshield with the refueling hole, light paint coat, thinnest nitro body available(0.7mm or less), etc...So far the SRS-N is the best I've tested, with matrix carbon tires 37F/40R on the street. I run tamiya shocks 40wt oil three hole pistons, 25% rebound....
I also use the thickest gold swaybar in my ntc3 front and rear, with the blade swaybar at the stiffest settings in front, and 45 degrees in the rear... That stopped the heavy sway I use to have in the corners at the track, but I realized that I still needed alot of weight to come off the top of the chassis to really cure the problem, hence the lowered towers/shocks/body, etc...
I also cut my bodies enough to have them weigh about 85grams or less: no windows except the winshield with the refueling hole, light paint coat, thinnest nitro body available(0.7mm or less), etc...So far the SRS-N is the best I've tested, with matrix carbon tires 37F/40R on the street. I run tamiya shocks 40wt oil three hole pistons, 25% rebound....
#47
That was my first thought, but I was able to shorten my tamiya shocks by screwing the bottom shock ends all the way in enough for them to fit nicely, and I got about 2 to 3mm of droop dialed in without any spring preload with about 5mm rideheight f/r on 57mm tires.... I don't think the AE shocks will fit though, since their shock body is way longer than the tamiya's. The tc7.1 shocks might be needed if you don't already have another manufacturers short shock set that can fit....I had my shocks built around 57mm or so to fit properly...
#48
If you and I had the same driving skill, I bet I could blueprint a ntc3 to run very close and be somewhat competitive with factory associated parts.
A few hop ups, aside from putting more power to the ground without belts, I'd likely be pulling on a nt1 at a sticky track.
A few hop ups, aside from putting more power to the ground without belts, I'd likely be pulling on a nt1 at a sticky track.
#49
That was my first thought, but I was able to shorten my tamiya shocks by screwing the bottom shock ends all the way in enough for them to fit nicely, and I got about 2 to 3mm of droop dialed in without any spring preload with about 5mm rideheight f/r on 57mm tires.... I don't think the AE shocks will fit though, since their shock body is way longer than the tamiya's. The tc7.1 shocks might be needed if you don't already have another manufacturers short shock set that can fit....I had my shocks built around 57mm or so to fit properly...
#50
At the end of the day, I'd still run an nt1 without hesitation, especially the new one.
#51
I get the same types of free offers with my tc4: parts to last for three lifetimes... Way too much support, not enough folks willing to run the AE cars....
#52
I don't have long history of RC so I can't tell about TC3 but I've seen 1 or 2. All I can say is that with that old car, it will be a lot of effort and time that you have to invest. I tried something similar when I started out RC a few years back with the Yokomo YR I had had for years from my uncle. I started buying bunch of parts here and there and it was not easy. I ended up putting the car in a drawer because it was just not realistic to keep trying to make that old car work. I probably ended up spending more than $400 just to put that away. Good learning experience but if somebody asks me, I wouldn't do it again.