NTC3 Information
11-27-2005, 07:40 AM
#1
NTC3 Information
Being new to the hobby I don't want to spend a lot of money on junk and I understand the RRR or MTX4 are outstanding cars but I haven't heard much about the NTC3.
Is that because the NTC3 truly isn't up to that degree of racing? Built sloppy? Just from looks "I" really cant tell a difference in the cars. I also understand the driver’s skill plays a very big part in a race but does the car hold up well, durable?
I understand LHS support etc. can come into play with making a decision just trying to make the best educated one. Thanks.
Is that because the NTC3 truly isn't up to that degree of racing? Built sloppy? Just from looks "I" really cant tell a difference in the cars. I also understand the driver’s skill plays a very big part in a race but does the car hold up well, durable?
I understand LHS support etc. can come into play with making a decision just trying to make the best educated one. Thanks.
11-27-2005, 08:28 AM
#2
Tech Adept
The NTC3 is good car for both racing and bashing. One of the few cars out there that is able to do both well.
As far as racing goes.... Many people don't use it anymore because it is a bit (alot) more fragile than the MTX3, MTX4, RRR. It just can't take a beating and keep on ticking like the other more common racing cars. That being really the only real weakness (the diff parts aren't particularly strong either with the newer high powered .12 engines installed). The biggest strength is it is smooth and is able to carry alot of cornering speed on the infield (really rewards those people with a smooth driving style).
As you are new to the hobby, it is a good starting point (I would recommend the the kit over the rtr for many reasons). I would usually recommend that you buy the best equipment you can afford (ie radio, servos, engine, etc) as it does make the car better, but I would try to see if you really can get into the racing portion of this hobby before dropping alot of money into the car.
As far as racing goes.... Many people don't use it anymore because it is a bit (alot) more fragile than the MTX3, MTX4, RRR. It just can't take a beating and keep on ticking like the other more common racing cars. That being really the only real weakness (the diff parts aren't particularly strong either with the newer high powered .12 engines installed). The biggest strength is it is smooth and is able to carry alot of cornering speed on the infield (really rewards those people with a smooth driving style).
As you are new to the hobby, it is a good starting point (I would recommend the the kit over the rtr for many reasons). I would usually recommend that you buy the best equipment you can afford (ie radio, servos, engine, etc) as it does make the car better, but I would try to see if you really can get into the racing portion of this hobby before dropping alot of money into the car.
11-27-2005, 01:53 PM
#3
Thanks for the info. From the best I can tell it doesn't coast that much more to purchase one of the other commonly used cars, MTX4, RRR or 710. I guess it would just come down to local support and personal preference for the cars.
This would be the 3rd time I have started back into the hobby. First was with a bolink car wife bought about 8yrs ago. Last was a xxxs and with that I also purchased crap gear but I was also doing Gas Boats as well. Also crap gear. I sold everything to help with some personal matters and now I don't want to jump head first to start again. I want to start off on the right foot with good gear since I never learned my lesson the first 2 go arounds.
This would be the 3rd time I have started back into the hobby. First was with a bolink car wife bought about 8yrs ago. Last was a xxxs and with that I also purchased crap gear but I was also doing Gas Boats as well. Also crap gear. I sold everything to help with some personal matters and now I don't want to jump head first to start again. I want to start off on the right foot with good gear since I never learned my lesson the first 2 go arounds.
11-27-2005, 02:20 PM
#4
Tech Adept
If you're going to get into racing. Go down to your local track and talk to some of the racers. They usually will tell you what they are running, what to get to start off with, and other cost saving things that someone starting up would not neccessarily think of. That is one of the things I like most about racing is the guys are almost always willing to help if asked (and sometimes not asked).
And at times some of them will have decent equipment they would be willing to sell you (usually because they have upgraded to even better equipment).
Look at ebay (be careful though). You can generally get some good deals on some of the cars you are looking at. If you go this route, look for one that someone has obviously cared for. This is how I got my Delta XP4 in good condition.
My suggestion to start off with:
Car: Mugen Mtx3/4 (the mtx4 just came out, but the 3 will be just as competitive for awhile), Kyosho RRR, Serpent 710, RD Logics Mongoose (you can get this for about $200), NTC3
Engine: OS TZ seems to have the best bang for the buck, though I still prefer Novarossi (novarossi based) motors. (I wouldn't buy used unless you know the person selling it to you)
Radio: JR XS3, Airtronics MX3-s/MX-8 (you don't need a top top end radio but something with some adjustability and FM modulation)
Servos: Digital steering, analog throttle (I am using a Futaba 9451 for steering, and Futaba 3010 for throttle) [again don't go too crazy, two decent analogs would work as well]
And at times some of them will have decent equipment they would be willing to sell you (usually because they have upgraded to even better equipment).
Look at ebay (be careful though). You can generally get some good deals on some of the cars you are looking at. If you go this route, look for one that someone has obviously cared for. This is how I got my Delta XP4 in good condition.
My suggestion to start off with:
Car: Mugen Mtx3/4 (the mtx4 just came out, but the 3 will be just as competitive for awhile), Kyosho RRR, Serpent 710, RD Logics Mongoose (you can get this for about $200), NTC3
Engine: OS TZ seems to have the best bang for the buck, though I still prefer Novarossi (novarossi based) motors. (I wouldn't buy used unless you know the person selling it to you)
Radio: JR XS3, Airtronics MX3-s/MX-8 (you don't need a top top end radio but something with some adjustability and FM modulation)
Servos: Digital steering, analog throttle (I am using a Futaba 9451 for steering, and Futaba 3010 for throttle) [again don't go too crazy, two decent analogs would work as well]
12-09-2005, 07:47 PM
#5
NTC3
I have a NTC3 that has been sitting on a shelf for well over a year now. I was looking through the Nitro section to find the NTC3 thread, but found only 2. I found this thread (which really doesnt help much), and the NTC3 RTR thread. I have been to the RC10 site for setup information which I plan to use, but have a couple questions.
I usually run 1/8th on-road when running nitro, but am interested in setting up my NTC3 for some racing action. I just picked up the updated rear suspension, and wanted to know if there are any racers (with exception to Barry B) still racing with this chassis? How does it compare to the new cars? I would guess that Associated has been testing new parts and B. Baker may be using some that are not yet available. Barry can drive any car fast, I just want a good comparison. The Sedan Nats is a consideration for me in 2006, and I might want to attend becasue it will be close to home. Is the car near the minimum weight requirements for the class? What will I need (aside from skills and a huge motor)? What sedan foams are best? Any help is appreciated.
I usually run 1/8th on-road when running nitro, but am interested in setting up my NTC3 for some racing action. I just picked up the updated rear suspension, and wanted to know if there are any racers (with exception to Barry B) still racing with this chassis? How does it compare to the new cars? I would guess that Associated has been testing new parts and B. Baker may be using some that are not yet available. Barry can drive any car fast, I just want a good comparison. The Sedan Nats is a consideration for me in 2006, and I might want to attend becasue it will be close to home. Is the car near the minimum weight requirements for the class? What will I need (aside from skills and a huge motor)? What sedan foams are best? Any help is appreciated.
12-10-2005, 11:53 AM
#6
Registered User
Theres tons of info here in the RC10NTC3 thread. WE started that thead when the first NTC3 came out on the market. So every and all info needed is there.
12-10-2005, 02:10 PM
#7
Originally Posted by graphiteman
wanted to know if there are any racers (with exception to Barry B) still racing with this chassis? How does it compare to the new cars? .
12-12-2005, 09:41 PM
#9
graphiteman, the NTC3 is extremely capable on the track. Super smooth drivetrain, excellent adjustability, and great parts support. The biggest "knock" on the NTC3 is the durability, although the V2 rear end helped a ton in that department. Good Luck.
12-12-2005, 10:01 PM
#10
Rich,
Do you run at Crystal Park or Revelation in So. CA? I just installed the version 2 rear on my chassis and nearly brought it out for the Toys 4 Tots event at Revaltion this past weekend. Instead, I ran 1/8th as I didnt want to suffer trying to get the car sorted out.
I saw some mention of the cyntex clutch for the NTC3.... any suggestions?
Thanks
Do you run at Crystal Park or Revelation in So. CA? I just installed the version 2 rear on my chassis and nearly brought it out for the Toys 4 Tots event at Revaltion this past weekend. Instead, I ran 1/8th as I didnt want to suffer trying to get the car sorted out.
I saw some mention of the cyntex clutch for the NTC3.... any suggestions?
Thanks
12-14-2005, 07:18 AM
#11
graphiteman, I usually run at Revelation even though Crystal Park is about 10 minutes from my house (San Pedro). I like Revelation because Dana really keeps-up on the track, it's always dialed!
As far as Centax-style clutches, I run the K-Factory. A little hard to get parts for, but very well-built. I think the next time around, I may pick up the Yokomo version which is Based on the Mugen clutch.
As far as Centax-style clutches, I run the K-Factory. A little hard to get parts for, but very well-built. I think the next time around, I may pick up the Yokomo version which is Based on the Mugen clutch.
12-14-2005, 08:04 AM
#12
Rich, I found the traction to be abnormally high at Revelation. A number of the 1/10 sedans were rolling over, and even some 1/8 cars lifting wheels. I spent the day in agony, but for a good cause.
I will look into the Yokomo clutch as my 1/8th is Mugen, so I would be more familiar with it. The next few events that I attend (after the holidays) will be spent trying to get the car dialed as many of the sedan guys have already done. If I head out to Revelation next year, I will try to find you for some additional tips.
Thanks for the help!
I will look into the Yokomo clutch as my 1/8th is Mugen, so I would be more familiar with it. The next few events that I attend (after the holidays) will be spent trying to get the car dialed as many of the sedan guys have already done. If I head out to Revelation next year, I will try to find you for some additional tips.
Thanks for the help!
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