Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

All the best this weekend Harry for you and the boys at the Qld titles... Should be able to drop some time over the weekend!

Andrew

socaliracer

Hey there TM G4 racers.

I have for sale in the "for sale" section, an almost full option (only missing the optional chassis) Team Magic G4 that is in almost new condition with a HotMod Nova Rossi Plus12 3CTS engine, and Airtronics 94358, and 94737 servos.

Thanks for looking...

Mr_Poo

Hi

Just to let people know the G4JR now comes with a 2.4ghz radio it looks like a Flysky Fs-Gt3b without the LCD screen with H.A.R.D stickers on it.

Has anyone played with the servo speed settings on their radio? I have been reading this whole thread over the last few weeks and wondered if it worked to overcome some of the on power oversteer some people have experienced. If it does i might been to look at getting another radio.

Thanks

blis

yes steering rates, front tyres have a lot to do with it

Mr_Poo

Blis

I was under the impression steering rate was dual rate and while is changed the distance the servo traveled the speed is actually increased as a result

Thanks

blis

Regardless of the terminology, the result is that TM's understeer REALLY well as the weight shifts to the front. In that I mean it's hard to distinguish that you are understeering because it handles the understeer in a very linear fashion.

It's when under power the weight shifts to the rear that the problem of rear snap occurs because the front wheels were slipping into a corner with too much steering angle. So in order to compensate you have to reduce the angles and be more aggressive at the wheel. Or.. use a softer shore on the front, or suspension.. or .... whatever you want to do to overcome the issue.

This was evident when we ran our EVO at the titles on a gripped up track and Luke reported how hard it was to drive because it was too twitchy. This to me meant that we were getting the full effect of the steering and how you want to rectify this depends on you, several ways to do it

This is our track..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wI2kL9-WbQ

Luke started his driving in EP and has very smooth lines and driving style. While he has been underpowered it's a joy to watch him drive the TM G4+ EVO, he looks composed and shifts weight in and out of corners very smoothly

Guy, who is now driving the V10 Shepherd is a much more aggressive driver and the EVO was a handful for him to drive. Make sure your wheels arent rubbing anywhere near the lower shock balls, wear marks are a good indicator

In EP many drivers use "turning radius" as a measure of steering angle, it's a good technique and I will do some experimentation next time we are on track.


I spent too many laps trying to tame the rear when it was the front causing the problems!

h

Craig67

iTrader: (3)

Hi guys I'm just looking for an opinion on 1/10 G4JR Gas Touring Car. i would like to get involved in racing but i'm on a tight budget, and was wondering if this package is any good to start with and upgrade it as i become more proficient..

blis

Buy a second hand G4+ or G4+ Evo... the JR will cost you more in the long run

Chickentrader

iTrader: (13)

It's better to buy a second hand car from someone in the club that you are planning to join. Second hand cars usually come with parts and support from the person that sold it to you. G4JR is one of the best RTR cars on the market, but a proper race car like g4, G4+ or G4RS is much better, with better availability of parts. Other brands of cars that deserves consider serious consideration would be Mugen, X-Ray and Serpent.

Kindest regards,
Lars.

Mr_Poo

Thank you sir... Andrew has pointed out i need to develop a more keen eye as the chassis and the shocks are also different on my new G4JR. The chassis now has the holes pre-drilled for the rear belt tensioner and the shocks are no longer orange, they look like the same shocks as the G4+ Evo. I doubt they are identical as this is a budget model car.

Thank you for reading

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

no worries man, glad I can assist. Sorry to hear about your bad luck with the SH engine on the weekend. If it keeps playing up try your STS, would try some tuning on it and make sure the tank hasn't got an airleak.

I drove my Mongoose again this week and also drove my brothers Edam, man I should have kept using it, much nicer to drive at the moment then the Goose...

Take care
Andrew

blis

With the SH engine, jiggle the crankshaft, if it has play the bearing may have failed. They are relatively cheap engines and bearings is one area they will reduce cost. Also a cause of air leaks as the seals will wear and it's time to put it in the oven before you ruin the internals.

razzor

just a heads up.
anyone looking for G4S parts, i have 7 kits that i have put all the parts into 1 box. i used the shocks and clutch shoes in other projects.
also a assembled chassis and assorted hop ups.
looking to swap for a Sanwa Super EXZES stick transmitter or make me a offer by pm.

Mr_Poo

Thank you everyone for your assistance, I am glad to see some people still following this car

I am still looking into a better radio... What diff oils are people using? Should i get a spool?

Thanks

blis

The locker/spool on the front will reduce the weight significantly. Depending on your track this can work for or against you. A spread spectrum radio with good servos will be a better investment in the long term and give you much better response.

The stiffer the diff oil the more push/understeer you will get "on power". Soften the oill too much and with oversteer it will snap out on you. Once you get the suspension, steering and overall balance to your liking things will settle down.

Try adjusting the castor to set the camber on turn and don't throw your money at the car until you know what you need and why.