Team Magic G4
09-25-2009, 04:32 AM
G4JS Centex
Blis & Bishop:
It's not the UFO, it's the same as the Mongoose (G4 Evo) revised clutch.
It's not the UFO, it's the same as the Mongoose (G4 Evo) revised clutch.
09-25-2009, 04:33 AM
Bishop:
Where are you getting your Team Magic stuff from?
BB
Where are you getting your Team Magic stuff from?
BB
09-25-2009, 06:12 AM
The car and first lot of bits with it, came direct from RCShopping, maybe it's socially incorrect, but I'm a price queen, I'll always buy of whoever will sell me what I want the cheapest.
To my horror I found a place called Helipross after I made my order who had it cheaper, but I don't know of anyone who has ordered from them, so maybe not such a huge loss. (even though it was a fair wack cheaper)
Future parts are looking to come from RC-Manufactory or RC-Mushroom, both have a good range, RC-Man have the biggest range though of anyone, by a long shot, only issue is comparing prices is harsh because they list in HK when everyone else lists in US.
Actually just a few hours ago I got burnt by RC-Mart, a day after I ordered and paid for the Novarossi pipe I wanted, they tell me they have no stock, order has now been made from RC-Mushroom, but I'm guessing now it will be Monday before it ships.
To my horror I found a place called Helipross after I made my order who had it cheaper, but I don't know of anyone who has ordered from them, so maybe not such a huge loss. (even though it was a fair wack cheaper)
Future parts are looking to come from RC-Manufactory or RC-Mushroom, both have a good range, RC-Man have the biggest range though of anyone, by a long shot, only issue is comparing prices is harsh because they list in HK when everyone else lists in US.
Actually just a few hours ago I got burnt by RC-Mart, a day after I ordered and paid for the Novarossi pipe I wanted, they tell me they have no stock, order has now been made from RC-Mushroom, but I'm guessing now it will be Monday before it ships.
09-25-2009, 02:05 PM
Np's
Mongoose G4 used the small 30mm? I have one or two of them too!
Cheers.. off to the QLD electrics with teh E4.. I damn hope they dont start arguing over those brushed 540's.. any more of that and I may move luke into a G series too!
Last edited by blis; 09-25-2009 at 02:06 PM. Reason: Not Bumdy :) hehe sorry
09-25-2009, 02:21 PM
Bundy, in the clutch I meant more the BELL and the split betwene 1st and second pinion. it's around 4mm unlike Mugens at 5 etc. Rather than let Bishop try any other Bells and waste money finding they dont work, (like I did) thoughtn Id mention it and it may be the first centex he's used? Give him some pointers and maint.. Once I get back from Nats, we'll be in Spring racing mode and saturday nights at England park will come back to life. Will be there to share parts and tips etc.
Mongoose G4 used the small 30mm? I have one or two of them too!
Cheers.. off to the QLD electrics with teh E4.. I damn hope they dont start arguing over those brushed 540's.. any more of that and I may move luke into a G series too!
Mongoose G4 used the small 30mm? I have one or two of them too!
Cheers.. off to the QLD electrics with teh E4.. I damn hope they dont start arguing over those brushed 540's.. any more of that and I may move luke into a G series too!
Understand now... Enjoy Wynnum this weekend, not enough noise and smoke for me
09-30-2009, 03:04 AM
Bishop: is the Js complete as yet? Did you get your backplate so you can run the Jammin?
BB
BB
09-30-2009, 04:49 AM
Inspired!!!
10-01-2009, 04:16 AM
Tech Adept
pullstart mods to G4S
Hi fellow TM fans,
I'm looking to have a crack at a pull start class but first will need to move the side belt outward with either longer mid and rear shafts or offset pulleys, mod the side plate and space out the belt tensioner.
Question is - are these parts available?
Cheers
Adrian
I'm looking to have a crack at a pull start class but first will need to move the side belt outward with either longer mid and rear shafts or offset pulleys, mod the side plate and space out the belt tensioner.
Question is - are these parts available?
Cheers
Adrian
10-01-2009, 05:17 AM
Hi fellow TM fans,
I'm looking to have a crack at a pull start class but first will need to move the side belt outward with either longer mid and rear shafts or offset pulleys, mod the side plate and space out the belt tensioner.
Question is - are these parts available?
Cheers
Adrian
I'm looking to have a crack at a pull start class but first will need to move the side belt outward with either longer mid and rear shafts or offset pulleys, mod the side plate and space out the belt tensioner.
Question is - are these parts available?
Cheers
Adrian
I think you will have to get some customer shafts made up. I had this done with my old Kyosho V1R out of T6 alloy. I ran into trouble with the front shaft where pins go through for the pullies and end up having to use hardened steel.
Good luck with it!
BB
10-02-2009, 03:58 AM
But, brown stuff hit the fan when I tried to properly fit the Jammin engine today, I fitted the centax etc, then when trying to mesh the gears, found all sorts of issues...
Can't get the gear mesh close enough as is, or the engine back far enough for the clutch bell not to foul the spur gears, I'm running into 3-4 different clearance issues.
Disk brake is hitting both the carb and the engine casing big time, one engine mount is hitting a plastic bulkhead limiting adjustment, cap screws on back of engine fouling alloy side plate, and lower chassis slots not quite allowing enough adjustment in the direction I need.
So, I have some grinding to do with my rotary tool, the primary being the brake disk, that needs a good amount taken off it, with maybe some meat taken off the engine if I can't take enough off the disk, one engine mount will need material taken off it, and the cap screws will need to be ground down a little, then hopefully the engine will fit.
Although the fun happened when I tried to remove the brake disk, my rear alloy pully bit was stuck on the shaft, my car is now in pieces all across my table, whole back end needed to come apart to get the shaft out with pulley still on, then it required some effort to get it off the shaft, to much thread lock on the grub screw, had spread down and glued the pulley to the shaft, took some fair hits to get it off.
It's the little bits like this you hit and pisses you off big time, different engine may not have had the issue, but I suspect the brake disk would be too big for many engines.
10-02-2009, 04:04 AM
Oh and nice JR Bundy, I see some different shocks there, waiting on a shock shaft vice right now to get my shocks short enough, can't grip them enough right now to get the length I need, also do I see a different brake disk fitted there?.
10-02-2009, 04:34 AM
Backplate showed up the other day, but I'm still waiting on the pipe, that is looking like turning up next week, so no running in the engine this weekend like I had hoped.
But, brown stuff hit the fan when I tried to properly fit the Jammin engine today, I fitted the centax etc, then when trying to mesh the gears, found all sorts of issues...
Can't get the gear mesh close enough as is, or the engine back far enough for the clutch bell not to foul the spur gears, I'm running into 3-4 different clearance issues.
Disk brake is hitting both the carb and the engine casing big time, one engine mount is hitting a plastic bulkhead limiting adjustment, cap screws on back of engine fouling alloy side plate, and lower chassis slots not quite allowing enough adjustment in the direction I need.
So, I have some grinding to do with my rotary tool, the primary being the brake disk, that needs a good amount taken off it, with maybe some meat taken off the engine if I can't take enough off the disk, one engine mount will need material taken off it, and the cap screws will need to be ground down a little, then hopefully the engine will fit.
Although the fun happened when I tried to remove the brake disk, my rear alloy pully bit was stuck on the shaft, my car is now in pieces all across my table, whole back end needed to come apart to get the shaft out with pulley still on, then it required some effort to get it off the shaft, to much thread lock on the grub screw, had spread down and glued the pulley to the shaft, took some fair hits to get it off.
It's the little bits like this you hit and pisses you off big time, different engine may not have had the issue, but I suspect the brake disk would be too big for many engines.
But, brown stuff hit the fan when I tried to properly fit the Jammin engine today, I fitted the centax etc, then when trying to mesh the gears, found all sorts of issues...
Can't get the gear mesh close enough as is, or the engine back far enough for the clutch bell not to foul the spur gears, I'm running into 3-4 different clearance issues.
Disk brake is hitting both the carb and the engine casing big time, one engine mount is hitting a plastic bulkhead limiting adjustment, cap screws on back of engine fouling alloy side plate, and lower chassis slots not quite allowing enough adjustment in the direction I need.
So, I have some grinding to do with my rotary tool, the primary being the brake disk, that needs a good amount taken off it, with maybe some meat taken off the engine if I can't take enough off the disk, one engine mount will need material taken off it, and the cap screws will need to be ground down a little, then hopefully the engine will fit.
Although the fun happened when I tried to remove the brake disk, my rear alloy pully bit was stuck on the shaft, my car is now in pieces all across my table, whole back end needed to come apart to get the shaft out with pulley still on, then it required some effort to get it off the shaft, to much thread lock on the grub screw, had spread down and glued the pulley to the shaft, took some fair hits to get it off.
It's the little bits like this you hit and pisses you off big time, different engine may not have had the issue, but I suspect the brake disk would be too big for many engines.
The brake disc issue has been trouble right from the original G4. The G4+ was finally given a smaller size disc, but sat on a drive hex rather then the pins that has carried on...
My only solution has been to us the Kyosho brake disc from the RRR Evo WCE as suggested by Luis. On my JR i have also installed the KFactory brake pads so i dont get any brake fade and these have the springs to push back the pads off the disc as well.
Your keen eye has also picked up the fact that i am going to try the RRR Evo shocks as well. I am not waiting for my Jammin .12 to arrive to swap the engine over, but i won't get to run it for another week or more as i fly out to Bathurst next week.
Keep me posted on your progress...
10-02-2009, 04:35 AM
I just use Multi-Grips i got from TradeTools
10-02-2009, 06:36 AM
What is the diameter of the Kyosho brake disk?.
The stock disk is like 32.13mm, which is kind of big, and I can see why you would go for a replacement, have been trying to grind down the stock disk, it's made of 'very' hard material, going to take me ages to grind it down to 30mm or so.
The stock disk is like 32.13mm, which is kind of big, and I can see why you would go for a replacement, have been trying to grind down the stock disk, it's made of 'very' hard material, going to take me ages to grind it down to 30mm or so.
10-02-2009, 01:58 PM
What is the diameter of the Kyosho brake disk?.
The stock disk is like 32.13mm, which is kind of big, and I can see why you would go for a replacement, have been trying to grind down the stock disk, it's made of 'very' hard material, going to take me ages to grind it down to 30mm or so.
The stock disk is like 32.13mm, which is kind of big, and I can see why you would go for a replacement, have been trying to grind down the stock disk, it's made of 'very' hard material, going to take me ages to grind it down to 30mm or so.