Team Magic G4
09-20-2008, 02:25 PM
#9977
Start with teh spring pressure minimum pressure and adjust 1/4 turn at a time and when you feel the car is not pulling well and sounds kike its reving but not pulling you back it of 1/4 to 1/2 a turn.
Also if you hold the car on teh ground and blip the throttle the car must want to pull out of your hands and not rev up as it pulls while holding it.
Hard to explain but if you take some time to experiment and try it you will figure out what i am saying.
As for the shoe in the pic above you can file that ridge on the shoe down and it will be ok to run, just check it and file ridge when it gets high.
The bell issmaller than the shoe diameter, alternative is see if you can file or sand paper down the shoe diameter.
09-20-2008, 03:02 PM
#9978
Not necessarily true !!!
Start with teh spring pressure minimum pressure and adjust 1/4 turn at a time and when you feel the car is not pulling well and sounds kike its reving but not pulling you back it of 1/4 to 1/2 a turn.
Also if you hold the car on teh ground and blip the throttle the car must want to pull out of your hands and not rev up as it pulls while holding it.
Hard to explain but if you take some time to experiment and try it you will figure out what i am saying.
As for the shoe in the pic above you can file that ridge on the shoe down and it will be ok to run, just check it and file ridge when it gets high.
The bell issmaller than the shoe diameter, alternative is see if you can file or sand paper down the shoe diameter.
Start with teh spring pressure minimum pressure and adjust 1/4 turn at a time and when you feel the car is not pulling well and sounds kike its reving but not pulling you back it of 1/4 to 1/2 a turn.
Also if you hold the car on teh ground and blip the throttle the car must want to pull out of your hands and not rev up as it pulls while holding it.
Hard to explain but if you take some time to experiment and try it you will figure out what i am saying.
As for the shoe in the pic above you can file that ridge on the shoe down and it will be ok to run, just check it and file ridge when it gets high.
The bell issmaller than the shoe diameter, alternative is see if you can file or sand paper down the shoe diameter.
09-20-2008, 07:07 PM
#9979
Not necessarily true !!!
Start with teh spring pressure minimum pressure and adjust 1/4 turn at a time and when you feel the car is not pulling well and sounds kike its reving but not pulling you back it of 1/4 to 1/2 a turn.
Also if you hold the car on teh ground and blip the throttle the car must want to pull out of your hands and not rev up as it pulls while holding it.
Hard to explain but if you take some time to experiment and try it you will figure out what i am saying.
As for the shoe in the pic above you can file that ridge on the shoe down and it will be ok to run, just check it and file ridge when it gets high.
The bell issmaller than the shoe diameter, alternative is see if you can file or sand paper down the shoe diameter.
Start with teh spring pressure minimum pressure and adjust 1/4 turn at a time and when you feel the car is not pulling well and sounds kike its reving but not pulling you back it of 1/4 to 1/2 a turn.
Also if you hold the car on teh ground and blip the throttle the car must want to pull out of your hands and not rev up as it pulls while holding it.
Hard to explain but if you take some time to experiment and try it you will figure out what i am saying.
As for the shoe in the pic above you can file that ridge on the shoe down and it will be ok to run, just check it and file ridge when it gets high.
The bell issmaller than the shoe diameter, alternative is see if you can file or sand paper down the shoe diameter.
for the shoe issue, ya i did think of sanding the step down but maybe i'll be trying UFO1 shoe in UFO2 set since UFO1 shoe seems to fit the bell better!
09-21-2008, 12:36 AM
#9981
clutch slipping sound like spur is damage..or..should be the like this..the car suddenly like free gear..hehe..rite or not?..
09-21-2008, 06:19 AM
#9984
you mean that yr clutch can be slipping but the bell inner part remains the same? usually it'll be shiny for slipping clutches right?
for the shoe issue, ya i did think of sanding the step down but maybe i'll be trying UFO1 shoe in UFO2 set since UFO1 shoe seems to fit the bell better!
for the shoe issue, ya i did think of sanding the step down but maybe i'll be trying UFO1 shoe in UFO2 set since UFO1 shoe seems to fit the bell better!
Slipping will cause the shoe to get glazed/shiny but that you can just use a pot scourer to deglaze.
Keep you clutch gap between .5mm - .7mm this will help keep it more consistent with the .5mm a bit smoother on its engagement and the .7mm being a bit more punchy/aggressive.
09-21-2008, 03:34 PM
#9985
can someone help me with the team magic spring colors? I can't seem to find anything that tells me what color corresponds with what diameter.
thanks!
thanks!
09-22-2008, 04:43 AM
#9986
09-22-2008, 01:05 PM
#9988
Been cleaning out my document files and came across this that i misplaced.
Got this on the G4S thread a while ago but relevant to any of the G4 clutches.
Got this on the G4S thread a while ago but relevant to any of the G4 clutches.
09-24-2008, 11:38 AM
#9989
Thanx razzor i was always under the impression that it was the other way around
ie: clutch gap was behind the bell and the end play was the gap at the end of the bell and the retaining screw.
No wonder i have trouble understanding and setting up clutches
Also, i have a G4s but i want to use the RS rear end because the sway bar works better. What parts will i need to convert it over. I know the bulkheads are different as there are no grooves for the sway bar to sit in under the carbon brake brace. If anyone wants to get rid of any of the parts i will need feel free to PM me with details.
ie: clutch gap was behind the bell and the end play was the gap at the end of the bell and the retaining screw.
No wonder i have trouble understanding and setting up clutches
Also, i have a G4s but i want to use the RS rear end because the sway bar works better. What parts will i need to convert it over. I know the bulkheads are different as there are no grooves for the sway bar to sit in under the carbon brake brace. If anyone wants to get rid of any of the parts i will need feel free to PM me with details.
Last edited by freestyles; 09-24-2008 at 03:07 PM.
09-24-2008, 03:19 PM
#9990
Thanx razzor i was always under the impression that it was the other way around
ie: clutch gap was behind the bell and the end play was the gap at the end of the bell and the retaining screw.
No wonder i have trouble understanding and setting up clutches
Also, i have a G4s but i want to use the RS rear end because the sway bar works better. What parts will i need to convert it over. I know the bulkheads are different as there are no grooves for the sway bar to sit in under the carbon brake brace. If anyone wants to get rid of any of the parts i will need feel free to PM me with details.
ie: clutch gap was behind the bell and the end play was the gap at the end of the bell and the retaining screw.
No wonder i have trouble understanding and setting up clutches
Also, i have a G4s but i want to use the RS rear end because the sway bar works better. What parts will i need to convert it over. I know the bulkheads are different as there are no grooves for the sway bar to sit in under the carbon brake brace. If anyone wants to get rid of any of the parts i will need feel free to PM me with details.
I have an 'S' and use the RS rear sway bar.
All you need are the Baulkheads and the rear arms from the RS for it to work.
Natrually you will need to have the Sway bar and fittings.
On the clutch setting up. Just ensure when all is assembled that you have "some" end play to your clutch bell! Some run more then others. But make sure there is "some" movement!! Otherwise you will blow up your thrust bearing VERY quickly!!
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