Team Magic G4
04-25-2008, 11:28 PM
#9226
dependant on how much paint is on the body, how many stickers and holes cut out, expect around 100g approx for a body. so you shold be closer to the 1750g weight, but do keep an old set of tires, then true them down to minimum size, and keep them for weighing the car.
when getting the car down in weight, it allows us to add it. now a tweak station, or the hudy setup woth scales is a good tool to be using to work out where to add the weight. if the car is left heavy, then add to the right of the chassis. simple alloy stick on weights are good for this. just make sure the surface is clean , then stick them on. the trick is to get a good balanced car, left to right, then if you need more weight added, you can stick it up front for a little more steering.. etc...
when getting the car down in weight, it allows us to add it. now a tweak station, or the hudy setup woth scales is a good tool to be using to work out where to add the weight. if the car is left heavy, then add to the right of the chassis. simple alloy stick on weights are good for this. just make sure the surface is clean , then stick them on. the trick is to get a good balanced car, left to right, then if you need more weight added, you can stick it up front for a little more steering.. etc...
i happen to have a tweak station which i didn't use at all!
btw, is there any rules about using unpainted body?
04-26-2008, 10:34 AM
#9227
Regards,
British Menace
04-26-2008, 08:12 PM
#9228
Question on the brakes for you guys:
I just installed the k-factory brake pads with the k-factory brake disk. The separation is wide enough (done by the springs) but the disk still catches on the edge of the pads. I roll the car and you can feel it and hear it catching (tack, tack, tack). My question is, does this go away after a few runs?
I just installed the k-factory brake pads with the k-factory brake disk. The separation is wide enough (done by the springs) but the disk still catches on the edge of the pads. I roll the car and you can feel it and hear it catching (tack, tack, tack). My question is, does this go away after a few runs?
04-26-2008, 08:46 PM
#9229
Question on the brakes for you guys:
I just installed the k-factory brake pads with the k-factory brake disk. The separation is wide enough (done by the springs) but the disk still catches on the edge of the pads. I roll the car and you can feel it and hear it catching (tack, tack, tack). My question is, does this go away after a few runs?
I just installed the k-factory brake pads with the k-factory brake disk. The separation is wide enough (done by the springs) but the disk still catches on the edge of the pads. I roll the car and you can feel it and hear it catching (tack, tack, tack). My question is, does this go away after a few runs?
the ED (alloy) trans you have to watch the disc cutting into the brake pulley.
once this happens then you get the disc chattering. but if your using the std trans, be sure to check the pins havent come out of the gear and catching on the bulkhead. if its all ok, then just run the car and check it out after a run , see if they bed in .
04-26-2008, 09:20 PM
#9230
Standard transmission and the pins are ok. It's the actual fins on the disk catching the pads. I'm hoping it will wear in.
04-27-2008, 05:18 PM
#9231
04-28-2008, 01:29 AM
#9234
04-28-2008, 01:33 AM
#9235
hi all lipo rx users,
will using a 900mah lipo be better than using a 1100mah nimh?
will using a 900mah lipo be better than using a 1100mah nimh?
04-28-2008, 02:40 AM
#9236
This weekend was the 2nd round of the national series.
Pleased to hear that a fellow G4S racer, the lone TM car in teh event, managed to take 4th overall in the A-mains and that with him competing against S720's and MTX4R's.
Dont necessarily think going to a new car is better.
He runs a stock G4S with ED tranny and a front diff. Everything else is box stock.
Pleased to hear that a fellow G4S racer, the lone TM car in teh event, managed to take 4th overall in the A-mains and that with him competing against S720's and MTX4R's.
Dont necessarily think going to a new car is better.
He runs a stock G4S with ED tranny and a front diff. Everything else is box stock.
04-28-2008, 03:59 AM
#9237
it has taken quite a few races for mine to start to wear the pulley, but thats about 6 months of racing. if you were running plastic pullies, they would have been replaced a few times already, so 6 months and replace a brake pulley seems ok for me,
04-28-2008, 04:02 AM
#9238
all depends on the regulator you are going to use. some have a cutt off at 6.7 volts, and some are around 6.2 or even 6 volts. so the cutt of voltage is better closer to the 6 volts. but a higher capacity lipo could see you run a higher cutt off votlage. this cut of voltage, is where the reg supplies a 6.7v till the battery cant deliver it, then it cuts out. so a higher voltage will see faster servo performance but its negligable to see the difference between 6.7 and a 6v supply.
04-28-2008, 04:06 AM
#9239
This weekend was the 2nd round of the national series.
Pleased to hear that a fellow G4S racer, the lone TM car in teh event, managed to take 4th overall in the A-mains and that with him competing against S720's and MTX4R's.
Dont necessarily think going to a new car is better.
He runs a stock G4S with ED tranny and a front diff. Everything else is box stock.
Pleased to hear that a fellow G4S racer, the lone TM car in teh event, managed to take 4th overall in the A-mains and that with him competing against S720's and MTX4R's.
Dont necessarily think going to a new car is better.
He runs a stock G4S with ED tranny and a front diff. Everything else is box stock.
Razzor, i totally agree. there is nothing wrong with the G4S, with the Ed trans. i would add the new RS top bracket and rear top arm. more rear roll center adjustments . speed shot also helps. but the G4S is still a great car.
04-28-2008, 10:54 AM
#9240
Tech Regular
all depends on the regulator you are going to use. some have a cutt off at 6.7 volts, and some are around 6.2 or even 6 volts. so the cutt of voltage is better closer to the 6 volts. but a higher capacity lipo could see you run a higher cutt off votlage. this cut of voltage, is where the reg supplies a 6.7v till the battery cant deliver it, then it cuts out. so a higher voltage will see faster servo performance but its negligable to see the difference between 6.7 and a 6v supply.
what Lipo are you using on the RS? I need to get a pack, but one that fits
Thanks for your help.
Have fun