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Old 06-17-2007, 07:17 AM
  #7156  
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Default - korea kyosho cup -

i joined the korea kyosho cup in today.

i used BOSS Plug(NinJa) on my OS 12TZ.

the kirina circuit's ground temperature was about 55C-60C

and ground was very dry (no humidity)

so it was very difficult to find setup.

speak briefly.. 'The Worst Traction'

i finished 3rd position in the Heat.



i changed my car setup.. and clutch setup also changed.

and.. my G4S go well than Heat in the final warming up race

But.. i made a absurd mistake in the final warming up race

my finger was slide seperated from transmitter trigger in the backstraight

ends in full braking time

my G4S go straight the wall.. and crashed..

front sus arm was broken and wheel got bent.

so i could not start in A-main Final.

i repaired my G4S and i could join A-main Final after 8-9minutes

i got the best lap number one.

there are no cars that pass me.

But for 8-9 minutes loss.. i finished 7th position. --;;


i attached sandpaper in my transmitter trigger for protection finger sliding.

and i wonder how to do good setup in high temperature and dry ground...
Attached Thumbnails Team Magic G4-sany0001.jpg   Team Magic G4-sany0018.jpg   Team Magic G4-sany0019.jpg   Team Magic G4-sany0017.jpg  

Last edited by gansei; 06-17-2007 at 07:19 AM. Reason: miss typing
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Old 06-17-2007, 11:39 AM
  #7157  
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Originally Posted by gansei
i joined the korea kyosho cup in today.

i used BOSS Plug(NinJa) on my OS 12TZ.

the kirina circuit's ground temperature was about 55C-60C

and ground was very dry (no humidity)

so it was very difficult to find setup.

speak briefly.. 'The Worst Traction'

i finished 3rd position in the Heat.



i changed my car setup.. and clutch setup also changed.

and.. my G4S go well than Heat in the final warming up race

But.. i made a absurd mistake in the final warming up race

my finger was slide seperated from transmitter trigger in the backstraight

ends in full braking time

my G4S go straight the wall.. and crashed..

front sus arm was broken and wheel got bent.

so i could not start in A-main Final.

i repaired my G4S and i could join A-main Final after 8-9minutes

i got the best lap number one.

there are no cars that pass me.

But for 8-9 minutes loss.. i finished 7th position. --;;


i attached sandpaper in my transmitter trigger for protection finger sliding.

and i wonder how to do good setup in high temperature and dry ground...

Gansei,

It is clear if you didn't have your misfortune, should have a podium finish, since you had the fastest laps.

Did you wash your hands in oil? Is that why is slipped?

Next time buddy...next time...
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Old 06-17-2007, 12:33 PM
  #7158  
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Originally Posted by gansei
i joined the korea kyosho cup in today.

i used BOSS Plug(NinJa) on my OS 12TZ.

the kirina circuit's ground temperature was about 55C-60C

and ground was very dry (no humidity)

so it was very difficult to find setup.

speak briefly.. 'The Worst Traction'

i finished 3rd position in the Heat.



i changed my car setup.. and clutch setup also changed.

and.. my G4S go well than Heat in the final warming up race

But.. i made a absurd mistake in the final warming up race

my finger was slide seperated from transmitter trigger in the backstraight

ends in full braking time

my G4S go straight the wall.. and crashed..

front sus arm was broken and wheel got bent.

so i could not start in A-main Final.

i repaired my G4S and i could join A-main Final after 8-9minutes

i got the best lap number one.

there are no cars that pass me.

But for 8-9 minutes loss.. i finished 7th position. --;;


i attached sandpaper in my transmitter trigger for protection finger sliding.

and i wonder how to do good setup in high temperature and dry ground...

Well done on your recovery!

I slipped a piece of fuel tubing over the front of my trigger! My finger therefor fits snug in the trigger!

I cannot help noticing that your front A-arm has been cut a fair amount shorter! (the section where the pivot ball screws in)

What is the reason for that! I cannot remember seeing any post regarding this in the posts!

Last edited by casimirsa; 06-17-2007 at 02:58 PM.
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Old 06-17-2007, 02:49 PM
  #7159  
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Originally Posted by casimirsa
Well done on your recovery!

I slipped a piece of fuel tubing over the front of my trigger! My finger therefor fits snug in the trigger!

I cannot help noticing that your front A-arm has been cut a fair amount shorter!

What is the reason for that! I cannot remember seeing any post regarding this in the posts!
I do the same on my 3PK but the old M8 fits snugly on my trigger finger.

The cut on the arm is probably for the short-wheel-base mod.
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Old 06-17-2007, 03:00 PM
  #7160  
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Originally Posted by Sow&Steady
I do the same on my 3PK but the old M8 fits snugly on my trigger finger.

The cut on the arm is probably for the short-wheel-base mod.
I meant the section where the pivot ball screws in. I looks as if it has been cut down about 1.0mm
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Old 06-17-2007, 03:15 PM
  #7161  
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Daz/muppet mentioned they did that when using the quick release hubs.
The q/r hubs havea slightly wider off set so by doing that you can make the front track narrower.I think you would have to shorten the threaded end on the ball as well.
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Old 06-17-2007, 05:57 PM
  #7162  
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Originally Posted by casimirsa
Well done on your recovery!

I slipped a piece of fuel tubing over the front of my trigger! My finger therefor fits snug in the trigger!

I cannot help noticing that your front A-arm has been cut a fair amount shorter! (the section where the pivot ball screws in)

What is the reason for that! I cannot remember seeing any post regarding this in the posts!
i also put something(shrinking cable) in trigger to reduce trigger gap.

But it is some slippery ^^

A-arm has been cut a fair amount -> to reduce front width (196 ~197mm)
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Old 06-18-2007, 03:01 AM
  #7163  
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How are you all?

Really hope everything is alright.

G4+ Kit 999/001 and 999/999 are currently opening for bidding on EBay and will be last for 7 days.

This offers a great opportunity for customers to get a G4+ with good value.



Please go and bid for the number you like.

Have fun and Happy Racing.

Team Magic Edith

Last edited by TM Edith; 06-18-2007 at 03:20 AM.
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Old 06-18-2007, 04:50 AM
  #7164  
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OS speed was much reduced due to slipping clucth, lucky i finished 20min final in 2nd - looks like this clucth is stuffed, now from the pics should i just buy th shoe, or get a whole new assembly?


regards

Frankie
Attached Thumbnails Team Magic G4-digital-001.jpg   Team Magic G4-digital-002.jpg   Team Magic G4-digital-003.jpg   Team Magic G4-digital-004.jpg  
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Old 06-18-2007, 05:01 AM
  #7165  
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Also why is my side belt stripping teeth all of a sudden? maybe the locked diff i thinks, i did run a 2mm split always with ED trans and ran a 52T 1st and 46 2nd
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Old 06-18-2007, 05:15 AM
  #7166  
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You would need just the shoe Kodak and if you wanted you couls trim the lip on the shoe base like mentioned before by Gansei.
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Old 06-18-2007, 05:19 AM
  #7167  
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Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak
Also why is my side belt stripping teeth all of a sudden? maybe the locked diff i thinks, i did run a 2mm split always with ED trans and ran a 52T 1st and 46 2nd
check maybe too much slack on the belt.
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Old 06-18-2007, 05:19 AM
  #7168  
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Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak
Also why is my side belt stripping teeth all of a sudden? maybe the locked diff i thinks, i did run a 2mm split always with ED trans and ran a 52T 1st and 46 2nd
the urethane Belt(TM) is easily stripped teeth with ED Trans(aluminium pully)

recommendation rubber belt!!
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Old 06-18-2007, 05:39 AM
  #7169  
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Thats interesting to note Gansei but i havent had any hassles with stripping belts or spurs for that matter.
Last damaged belt a had wasa front one from a bad accident i had at the last national meet.
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Old 06-18-2007, 05:41 AM
  #7170  
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Originally Posted by gansei
the urethane Belt(TM) is easily stripped teeth with ED Trans(aluminium pully)

recommendation rubber belt!!
Gansei where can i buy? this rubber belt?

Razzo, yeah i checked that seems fine!
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