Team Magic G4
09-17-2007, 07:15 PM
#8176
hey guys,
can someone tell me the part number for the rear lower wing type arms?
And are the new G4+ rear knuckles the same as the kfactory rear hubs. ( the ones where you can use spacers to change your roll center) Part number?
thanks guys , ive been looking around the net for the numbers and cant find , figured someone here has it down by memory!!
can someone tell me the part number for the rear lower wing type arms?
And are the new G4+ rear knuckles the same as the kfactory rear hubs. ( the ones where you can use spacers to change your roll center) Part number?
thanks guys , ive been looking around the net for the numbers and cant find , figured someone here has it down by memory!!
Here's some numbers to help you out............
502291 ....... new rear lower 'flying wing' arm set
K14123-4 ... Flash pit rear upper link set.
K14123-3 ... Flash pit rear hub carrier
K14123-1 ... Flash pit insert. For stock axle size.
You may need the insert if you don't have any or as spares??
K14123- 7 ... Flash point set (Front and rear) for stock drive shaft size!
Hope this helps Steve. Let me know if you need anything else.
British Menace
09-17-2007, 09:54 PM
#8177
hey guys,
can someone tell me the part number for the rear lower wing type arms?
And are the new G4+ rear knuckles the same as the kfactory rear hubs. ( the ones where you can use spacers to change your roll center) Part number?
thanks guys , ive been looking around the net for the numbers and cant find , figured someone here has it down by memory!!
can someone tell me the part number for the rear lower wing type arms?
And are the new G4+ rear knuckles the same as the kfactory rear hubs. ( the ones where you can use spacers to change your roll center) Part number?
thanks guys , ive been looking around the net for the numbers and cant find , figured someone here has it down by memory!!
09-18-2007, 06:17 AM
#8178
Gearing
Hi everyone,
I was wondering is someone can give me a hint on gearing for a track of 250X130, my car is running out of gearing almost at 3/4 of the straightway, i have only tried this geraings...
51-20 1st gear
47-24 2nd Gear
and
50-20 1st Gear
46-24 2nd Gear (look better but still once I reach the 3/4 of the straightway you can tell there's no more geraing on the car)
at this track there's no need to let off the gas after the straightway when you enter the sweeper. so any ideas so the car cankeep pulling all the way at the end of the starightway.
Thank You
I was wondering is someone can give me a hint on gearing for a track of 250X130, my car is running out of gearing almost at 3/4 of the straightway, i have only tried this geraings...
51-20 1st gear
47-24 2nd Gear
and
50-20 1st Gear
46-24 2nd Gear (look better but still once I reach the 3/4 of the straightway you can tell there's no more geraing on the car)
at this track there's no need to let off the gas after the straightway when you enter the sweeper. so any ideas so the car cankeep pulling all the way at the end of the starightway.
Thank You
09-18-2007, 06:35 PM
#8182
My friend has a mongoose, he use the old S class centax. recently he blow the clutch wieght off the flywheel and in need of new one. however we all know Mongoose clutch has such a problem. I wonder if he can put the clutch wieght (K1497-10) and pressing plate (K1497-4) of UFO clutch into the mongoose flywheel. he already has the UFO clutch bell because S-class clutch bell is too hard to find
09-18-2007, 06:42 PM
#8183
I'm going to try this weekend the 25T pinion, but I was just trying to see if someone around here races at a big track that can give me a hint on what to start with...
maye the 45-25 and 18-52 would work, but I don't know about the 7T difference between 1st and 2nd gear...
I know some of the Mugen cars are running 6T difference at this track.
09-18-2007, 09:50 PM
#8184
I'm using a novarossi 5 ports engine with RD Logics turbo II pipe, and my friend G4S has the MF12 with 2602 Pipe, both cars are running out of gearing.
I'm going to try this weekend the 25T pinion, but I was just trying to see if someone around here races at a big track that can give me a hint on what to start with...
maye the 45-25 and 18-52 would work, but I don't know about the 7T difference between 1st and 2nd gear...
I know some of the Mugen cars are running 6T difference at this track.
I'm going to try this weekend the 25T pinion, but I was just trying to see if someone around here races at a big track that can give me a hint on what to start with...
maye the 45-25 and 18-52 would work, but I don't know about the 7T difference between 1st and 2nd gear...
I know some of the Mugen cars are running 6T difference at this track.
The Turbo II pipe will be holding you back for sure. It is not usually used as a full on race pipe. I would suggest you try a Novarossi 2630 or 2601 pipe with the 5 fin short manifold. This will give you much better performance and will increase your top end significantly. With the turbo II you are probably running out of RPM rather than running out of gearing.
09-18-2007, 10:01 PM
#8185
The 7T split is probably a bit much and will usually lead to stripping second gear. We run on a large track(60 metre front straight) and when we were using the standard trans, we ran 18/52 and 23/47 and sometimes the 51/46 spurs.
The Turbo II pipe will be holding you back for sure. It is not usually used as a full on race pipe. I would suggest you try a Novarossi 2630 or 2601 pipe with the 5 fin short manifold. This will give you much better performance and will increase your top end significantly. With the turbo II you are probably running out of RPM rather than running out of gearing.
The Turbo II pipe will be holding you back for sure. It is not usually used as a full on race pipe. I would suggest you try a Novarossi 2630 or 2601 pipe with the 5 fin short manifold. This will give you much better performance and will increase your top end significantly. With the turbo II you are probably running out of RPM rather than running out of gearing.
As Zoom says,
The pipe I think is restricting full breathing of your motor.
I would suggest the same, 2601 with either the medium (6 fin) or short (5 Fin) header.
Then see what you have on the track.
I would also say try to keep the gearing to 5 or 6 teeth....no more.
I would also get the ED Transmission. It's less arduous on the motor.
Regards,
British Menace
09-18-2007, 11:29 PM
#8187
Had a blast racing the last race of the KO Pro series at SV Speedway on Sunday. I could only run in the 4th race of this series due to work and family obligations. My last race was quite a long time ago--back in March. After two heats, I managed to qualifiy 7th in the A main sportsmans class. Again I was the only G4s driver out there. In the finals, I managed to stay away from trouble and had only minor bumps and bruises. This was my first race with the IDM engine. This engine had lots of power to pull the car from the corners but lacked the top end power due to a wrong pipe combination. I was using Skyline VR12, but should have used the Picco 2607 or 2617. I was already using 22T, 45T pinion/spur combo. I was getting reeled in the straight-away but I manage to draw them in the corners.
I got up to 3rd at one point but at the end, I ended up 4th place. Not bad for my first race at this track, and I haven't raced for 6 months. The best part is that I had no broken parts.
Gotta get my hands on a Picco pipe.
I got up to 3rd at one point but at the end, I ended up 4th place. Not bad for my first race at this track, and I haven't raced for 6 months. The best part is that I had no broken parts.
Gotta get my hands on a Picco pipe.
09-18-2007, 11:38 PM
#8188
Define overkill on price? I would not get an OS as the conrod is still a bit suspect, but the engine is pretty fast for the cost. The JL-Red dot is a good low cost engine. I have two brand new sealed Sirio STI engines for sale in the for sale forum. A normal STI and a Murnan. The STI is a real strong engine and mine are pretty well priced. ($190 shipped for the non murnan and $270 shipped for the murnan). The IDM EVO 3 is also a great choice, but now you are looking at prices at or above $300.
09-19-2007, 04:50 AM
#8189
hi guys I am just putting the ed trans on my g4s and wanted to know is there a special way that the brake disc goes on its got a spiral pattern on it and when i spin it seems to catch just slightly on the pads should I back off on the hex screws abit?? I also notice there is no diff as such for the front when u put the ed on? whats the best grease for the rear diff?
thanks
thanks
