Team Magic G4

Old 07-09-2007, 12:43 AM
  #7546  
Tech Apprentice
 
muppet racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 91
Default

Originally Posted by gansei
thanks ZOOM...

But according to my knowledge..

rear traction is bad as more spacers under the outer rear top link..

so i tried 0~1mm spacers under the outer rear top link for rear traction..

is it wrong?
Hi Gansei,

Zoom is correct, I always find more traction with this setting. With less spacers, the rear feels very good, until the rear of the car collpases just as you want to get on the power ! I dont know whether this is supposed to happen in theory, and to be honest I dont care ! You just have to find what works on the track......

A general bit of advice....
I think you need to forget the theory, just find what works, and have confidence to stick to it. If you have a basic chassis setting that gives a balanced car with good rotation, which ever track you race on, you know that your car is ok. If the track has low traction, then adjust the tyres or wait for track conditions to improve. There is no point in setting a car up on a low grip track........

Good Luck.
muppet racing is offline  
Old 07-09-2007, 01:01 AM
  #7547  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
 
Kodak Hodak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: South Australia, Australia
Posts: 2,159
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by muppet racing
Hi Gansei,

Zoom is correct, I always find more traction with this setting. With less spacers, the rear feels very good, until the rear of the car collpases just as you want to get on the power ! I dont know whether this is supposed to happen in theory, and to be honest I dont care ! You just have to find what works on the track......

A general bit of advice....
I think you need to forget the theory, just find what works, and have confidence to stick to it. If you have a basic chassis setting that gives a balanced car with good rotation, which ever track you race on, you know that your car is ok. If the track has low traction, then adjust the tyres or wait for track conditions to improve. There is no point in setting a car up on a low grip track........

Good Luck.
perfect tip for our track i shall try this setup up for ou low grip track!!!

i have forgotten about theoryies, they seem to be right, but at times the opposite works LOL
Kodak Hodak is offline  
Old 07-09-2007, 02:03 AM
  #7548  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
 
Kodak Hodak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: South Australia, Australia
Posts: 2,159
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

We missed out on our race this weekend, it was very very wet, thou can i ask a question in the worlds whick i cant remebr they ran in the wet!!!

Now what tire can work in the wet? any tips or advice here
Kodak Hodak is offline  
Old 07-09-2007, 03:23 AM
  #7549  
Tech Adept
 
vc05hdt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Morley,Perth W.A.
Posts: 246
Default

Originally Posted by Z00M
The silver springs all around actually work quite well on our track Mark.
Thanks Mike, I shall bring the lot down (springs and new car) this Sunday to test. Weather permitting!!
vc05hdt is offline  
Old 07-09-2007, 04:30 AM
  #7550  
Tech Elite
 
razzor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Durban, South Africa
Posts: 2,810
Default

Originally Posted by vc05hdt
I have just 99% assembled G4S and have query with silver factory spring for rear. I feel too hard. Is anyone racing with factory silver spring in rear? I have put in V one RRR spring in back for now as dont have Team Magic Spring Kit ??
The std silver springs acyually work very well on med traction surfaces.
I built a stock G4S a few month back to use as club chassis and was pleasantly surprised how well it ran with the silver spring with stock setup from manual.
Then again it would depend on your home track but its definately worth a try.
razzor is offline  
Old 07-09-2007, 04:35 AM
  #7551  
Tech Elite
 
razzor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Durban, South Africa
Posts: 2,810
Default

Originally Posted by Z00M
The more spacers on the outer top link the lower the roll centre. Lower roll centre will generate more grip on power while turning but it will make the change of direction a little bit slower.
I was using the std spacer setup of 2 shims initially and after changing to muppets setup and adding 2 more shims the back end was noticeably better.
razzor is offline  
Old 07-09-2007, 04:47 AM
  #7552  
Tech Master
 
grub's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 1,021
Default

took the g4+ out for a run today
first there more sterring than the g4s
you will need to put the extra shims on the rear hubs to get more rear traction
the two speed will need ajusting as its not set a factory
a very easy and smooth car to drive with the basic set up
and basic driverc
grub is offline  
Old 07-09-2007, 05:15 AM
  #7553  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (46)
 
nitrobeast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Colonia, NJ
Posts: 2,410
Trader Rating: 46 (100%+)
Default Made it to the A-main after 3 weeks :)

First I wanna thank everyone who has helped me with everything.
I'll give you a little run down of how it's been going down.
We are only 3 weeks into the point series

1st week made the b-main finished 4
2nd week made the b-main finished 1
3rd week made the a-main finished 3

I could have gotten 2nd yesterday but had some problem during the main.
First i cut a corner to sharp and ended up 3 feet in the air and landed on my back and ripped the wing off. Man do they make a difference. I had a hard time keep it straight on the straight but in the infield i loved the way the car felt. When i went into the turn the rear would get around so fast and it wouldnt break loose. Thats what i want.

My second problem was my 2nd speed gear stripped, maybe that was a good thing because if second would come in i might of spun out all the time without the wing.

Any tips on getting the rear to swing around but not break loose
I dont have my setup sheet with me but i'll try my best

spring front 1.6 rear 1.7
shock oil front/rear 60wt.
toe front 1.5 rear -2.5
camber front 2.5 rear 3.5
droop front 0 rear 3
rear diff 10k
roll bar front 0 rear 90

Again guys thanks for all the help..
nitrobeast is offline  
Old 07-09-2007, 05:58 AM
  #7554  
Tech Elite
 
razzor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Durban, South Africa
Posts: 2,810
Default

Originally Posted by nitrobeast
First I wanna thank everyone who has helped me with everything.
I'll give you a little run down of how it's been going down.
We are only 3 weeks into the point series

1st week made the b-main finished 4
2nd week made the b-main finished 1
3rd week made the a-main finished 3

I could have gotten 2nd yesterday but had some problem during the main.
First i cut a corner to sharp and ended up 3 feet in the air and landed on my back and ripped the wing off. Man do they make a difference. I had a hard time keep it straight on the straight but in the infield i loved the way the car felt. When i went into the turn the rear would get around so fast and it wouldnt break loose. Thats what i want.

My second problem was my 2nd speed gear stripped, maybe that was a good thing because if second would come in i might of spun out all the time without the wing.

Any tips on getting the rear to swing around but not break loose
I dont have my setup sheet with me but i'll try my best

spring front 1.6 rear 1.7
shock oil front/rear 60wt.
toe front 1.5 rear -2.5
camber front 2.5 rear 3.5
droop front 0 rear 3
rear diff 10k
roll bar front 0 rear 90

Again guys thanks for all the help..
Bud good to hear you running well and improving
I know the feeling as i had a similar hassle when loosing a wing at a nat event earlier this year.

I guess to get that rear end a tad happier than it is ,maybe take out some rear toe or maybe even front caster as the car responds very well to caster changes.Personally i am more confident and faster with a understeering car than a oversteering one.
razzor is offline  
Old 07-09-2007, 06:30 AM
  #7555  
Tech Adept
 
vc05hdt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Morley,Perth W.A.
Posts: 246
Default

Originally Posted by razzor
The std silver springs acyually work very well on med traction surfaces.
I built a stock G4S a few month back to use as club chassis and was pleasantly surprised how well it ran with the silver spring with stock setup from manual.
Then again it would depend on your home track but its definately worth a try.
Thanks Razzor
vc05hdt is offline  
Old 07-09-2007, 06:40 AM
  #7556  
Tech Fanatic
 
gansei's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Bander, Seoul
Posts: 890
Default

Originally Posted by muppet racing
Hi Gansei,

Zoom is correct, I always find more traction with this setting. With less spacers, the rear feels very good, until the rear of the car collpases just as you want to get on the power ! I dont know whether this is supposed to happen in theory, and to be honest I dont care ! You just have to find what works on the track......

A general bit of advice....
I think you need to forget the theory, just find what works, and have confidence to stick to it. If you have a basic chassis setting that gives a balanced car with good rotation, which ever track you race on, you know that your car is ok. If the track has low traction, then adjust the tyres or wait for track conditions to improve. There is no point in setting a car up on a low grip track........

Good Luck.
thanks Daz..

i will keep your advice..
gansei is offline  
Old 07-09-2007, 06:55 AM
  #7557  
Tech Regular
 
dnitro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Chino, CA
Posts: 311
Default

Originally Posted by nitrobeast

Any tips on getting the rear to swing around but not break loose
I dont have my setup sheet with me but i'll try my best

spring front 1.6 rear 1.7
shock oil front/rear 60wt.
toe front 1.5 rear -2.5
camber front 2.5 rear 3.5
droop front 0 rear 3
rear diff 10k
roll bar front 0 rear 90

Again guys thanks for all the help..
Another option that some people have done is to grind down the front part of the rear lower suspension arm by 2-3mm and add spacers. Then you need to add spacers behind the arm. This will help to rotate the car faster.
dnitro is offline  
Old 07-09-2007, 07:17 AM
  #7558  
Tech Fanatic
 
gansei's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Bander, Seoul
Posts: 890
Default

rear roll bar had two types... adjustable type VS wire type..

i used wire type in G4S.. and after conversion G4+.. i used adjustable type.

i know that adjustable type is harder than wire type.

and adjustable type can not do detail roll bar setup

i quess that My G4S+ lost rear traction compare with G4S because replaced rear roll bar


adjustable type had no tweak.
wire type had tweak.

so new rear roll bar is developing..

adjustable type had tweak!!!







gansei is offline  
Old 07-09-2007, 07:48 AM
  #7559  
Tech Elite
 
Sow&Steady's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Va Va Voom!
Posts: 4,104
Default

Originally Posted by gansei
MY G4S+ died!!!!! in the entry of straight..

for too much torque... my G4S+ was sick!!
Oh man! So sorry to see this!

I don't understand what you mean too much torque .. you couldn't control the throttle?
Sow&Steady is offline  
Old 07-09-2007, 07:54 AM
  #7560  
Tech Fanatic
 
gansei's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Bander, Seoul
Posts: 890
Default

Originally Posted by Sow&Steady
Oh man! So sorry to see this!

I don't understand what you mean too much torque .. you couldn't control the throttle?
my G4S front belt was stripped..

But i did not know the belt problem..

so.. my g4s was spinned on throttle in exit cornering and go straight on front of fense..
gansei is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.