Lycan

iTrader: (1)

The instructions for the UFO clutch doesnt show the usage of the washer behind the flywheel. Should it be used?

Cheers

Lycan

iTrader: (1)

Also, when I adjusted my clutch to 0.7mm for "harder acceleration", the clutch no longer engaged. The engined just reved but didnt move. Its almost like the clutch/gear housing is too far away at 0.7mm. Could it be related to the fact that i havent used the washer behind the flywheel?

rc_alan

Here's a good read for you... http://www.kfactoryracing.com/expert...24130345-74975

Rc_Alan

Car Breaker

iTrader: (10)

have you check the gap between clutch shoe and clutch bell?
how many weight you put into the clutch weight?
those also affect teh engage time of clutch,
I don't have UFO clutch but I don't use 0.7mm on my clutch, a little too much for my setting

4F1Racing

I put in all the weights and have the .7mm setting. Went on the track for the first time with the car today and the clutch came in real good. I am still breaking the engine in but still nice a smooth.

The car seems to me to have excellent steering entering and exiting turns. With the rich engine the middle was hard to determine. I was running on an unprepared track today, not overly dustly but not cleaned in last few days. It was slippery but I still had the front end sticking enough that the rear was almost loose entering a corner even a high speed one. I didn't have the old car so I can't give comparisons but so far I am pleased.

Can't wait for the running on a race ready track. Just as a note, I got GQ tires and I am very impressed. Each pair packed in plastic bag so that guarantees freshness and I love the rims... TM Orange baby! What a great match!!!! But the main thing, I was very impressed with them on this slick track today and I had 40's on all around. I Have GQ tires in stock now for those interested.

Can't wait to race this G4S here at this small tight track. They all have mugens here so I will be the David!

Sam

Motorman

iTrader: (1)

lycan you dont want the clutch bell .7 mm from the clutch shoe. you want it to clear the shoe by the thickness of 2 shims. you want the spring adjusted to about .7 mm down from flush with the end of the flywheel nut. If it still engages to high for you back it off to .5

On another note: the team feels the car will steer harder if we reduce the ackerman some. Moving the tie rods to the rear of the knuckles. The new system is close to what we used in the prototype but it has more ackerman than what we had. It alsmost has to much and needs to be reduced. So try the steering links in the holes at the rear of the knuckles.

Lycan

iTrader: (1)

See, now I'm confused.

The manual that came with my second UFO clutch states:

"We suggest the clutch gap should be between 0.4mm and 0.7mm"
"Larger clutch gap: Harder Acceleration"

So, to clarify, the clutch gap should be 0.4mm (two shims) and I should use the spring tension nut and/or weights to adjust "harder acceleration", not increasing the gap?

I'll take a read of that link RC_Alan, thanks.

Cheers
Andrew

left turner

hi, guys. new to this forum but not to racing. Had a question, just ordered a g4 (not the S) and wondered if theres anything i should be aware of about the build or if its fairly straightforward. i know my reflex rear gear diffs leaked bad until i put s thin layer of silicone on them, do these?

Ivan Dickson

iTrader: (32)

G4 is a good but you might want to look into purchasing the new up grade package for your G4 it has the new steering system & UFO clutch and etc.

British Menace

Hey ' Left Turner'
I used to run the Reflex also.
The G4S is the brand new version of the G4. It has ALOT of improvements on straight out the box. They are doing, or going to do an upgrade kit so as you can bring any of the previous G4's up to 'S'.

Which G4 do you have?
I have the 'E'.
Welcome to the thread also.............

You wont be dissopointed with your G4.. !!!!!!!!!

Tony

left turner

to be honest ,i dont know, didnt say on the site,. should be here next week. I stripped the spurs on my reflex and found 1 in taiwan. Gonna keep it for a backup car because it runs and handles perfect. we run a tight track and i hope the g4 handles just as good. my reflex out handles the hpi,s and serpents (only car im having problem with is a old hpi racer2, but he is running an OS15 instead of a 12) so i wanted to stay with basiclly the same car because i know what it can do. Any building issues i should know about?

BimmerDriver

I seem to remember reading somewhere that someone suggested trimming the A-arms by 3mm (each?) in order to set the width to 195mm and preventing the knuckle from hitting the arm. I have searched every thing here and can't find that again.

Maybe it was at 3Hobby.net, but I didn't find it there, either. It seems that if I remove 3mm from the lower arm, I will be into the outer shock mounting hole. Anybody else here read that same suggestion?

Motorman

iTrader: (1)

just remove the material right up to the outer hole boss. it is about a milimeter and a half. The knuckles have no problem at 198 width but we like to go 197/196 so we remove that material

muppet racing

Hi,

went testing yesterday with Roki (former British Champion ), and these are the settings we finished with on the clutch:

2 weights in each shoe
1.8mm TM spring
0.8mm clutch gap
0.8mm tension on spring (that was about the limit of tension, any more and it would slip)

the clutch was real nice, and very very consistent.
Hope this helps.

4F1Racing

That seems to be a good set up on the clutch. I think Dennis and the team were just about the same. I have only been out once with the car in breaking the engine in at the time. Yet the clutch seem very smooth at those settings.

Sam