Team Magic G4
05-03-2007, 05:14 PM
#6361
Originally Posted by Z00M
I wrote this in error Kit oil is 30K (part number is 10,000 - not the best of plans)
Edit - I always thought the kit had 30K oil. Page 2 of the manual where it shows what you get says 30000 with 10000 on the tube. I just checked the TM website and part number 502123 is 10K (which page 2 also says is included) so it looks like it is in fact 10K oil so my apologies to vc05htd for correcting him when it is my mistake.
Part number 502124 which is what you used to get with the G4 EVO/Mongoose is the 30K oil.
Part numbers and links below.
502123
502124
Edit - I always thought the kit had 30K oil. Page 2 of the manual where it shows what you get says 30000 with 10000 on the tube. I just checked the TM website and part number 502123 is 10K (which page 2 also says is included) so it looks like it is in fact 10K oil so my apologies to vc05htd for correcting him when it is my mistake.
Part number 502124 which is what you used to get with the G4 EVO/Mongoose is the 30K oil.
Part numbers and links below.
502123
502124
05-03-2007, 07:40 PM
#6362
Tech Adept
My G4S showed up today!! I am going to start building it tonight. I tried looking through this forum but with over 6000 posts it was hard to find specific tips on building.
If anyone can post any tips or modifications I should do as I build I would really appreciate it.
Thanks for your time.
John
If anyone can post any tips or modifications I should do as I build I would really appreciate it.
Thanks for your time.
John
05-03-2007, 07:56 PM
#6363
Major improvements from the G4 to the G4S are described in this post:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpost...5&postcount=52
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpost...5&postcount=52
05-03-2007, 08:14 PM
#6364
In addition to the G4S Conversion kit, what else does someone need to convert a G4 C/E/Evo to the full G4S specs? Seems like a few things are missing...?
http://www.teammagic.com.tw/en/profr...2068&pageNum=1
http://www.teammagic.com.tw/en/profr...2068&pageNum=1
05-03-2007, 08:23 PM
#6365
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
In addition to the G4S Conversion kit, what else does someone need to convert a G4 C/E/Evo to the full G4S specs? Seems like a few things are missing...?
http://www.teammagic.com.tw/en/profr...2068&pageNum=1
http://www.teammagic.com.tw/en/profr...2068&pageNum=1
rear aluminum bulkhead bracket
05-03-2007, 08:32 PM
#6366
John,
There are as number of build tips posted originally by Darren Johnson and some other guys from the 3Hobby.net site. I think from memory they may be included on the Team Magic website.
The tips that I can remember are:
Shock pistons - drill the holes out to 1.2mm for snoother action and oil flow
Arms - ream the arms out with a 3mm drill for a better fit and less binding
Shafts - polish the upper and lower hinge shafts with a metal polish like Autosol for a smoother action
Front Arms - place a shim between the lower front cross brace and the anti roll bar mounts to reduce binding
Rear uprights - polish the rear upright ball joint by putting it in a drill and buff it with a light sandpaper to free up the rear arms
Receiver - use a balloon to protect the receiver from fuel spills
Servo mount - be carefull not to overtighten the screw which joins the front brace with the steering servo mount - it strips easily.
Receiver pack - there were early reports of poorly constructed receiver battery packs. It would pay to remove the shrink wrap and check the joints to make sure they are secure. Mine was OK but many were not. A dead receiver pack can cause a runaway even with a failsafe attached.
Brake Piston - make sure you apply some grease to the brake piston where it meets the cutout in the alloy shaft
Carbon Fibre - seal the edges of any carbon fibre parts with CA glue. I found it easisest to apply with an ear bud/Qtip. You'll need 5 or 6 to finish the job.
Antenna - drill out the hole on the carbon fibre upper deck where the antenna comes through and glue in a piece of antenna tube to stop the antenna wire rubbing on the carbon fibre. Also make sure that the hole in the allow antenna mount is big enough for your wire without cutting or wearing through the outer layer.
Shock Assembly - These can be a bit tricky. You can try gluing the bladder to the eyelet with some CA glue, although I found that the orange silicon bladders do not stick very well. The other suggestion is to glue the eyelet to the shock cap. If you are hesitant to do either, just take your time and try putting a small piece of foam on top of the bladder. The Tamiya red foams are a pretty good fit and can be found at most LHS.
Otherwise, the stock setup is a pretty good starting point. Good luck and have fun.
There are as number of build tips posted originally by Darren Johnson and some other guys from the 3Hobby.net site. I think from memory they may be included on the Team Magic website.
The tips that I can remember are:
Shock pistons - drill the holes out to 1.2mm for snoother action and oil flow
Arms - ream the arms out with a 3mm drill for a better fit and less binding
Shafts - polish the upper and lower hinge shafts with a metal polish like Autosol for a smoother action
Front Arms - place a shim between the lower front cross brace and the anti roll bar mounts to reduce binding
Rear uprights - polish the rear upright ball joint by putting it in a drill and buff it with a light sandpaper to free up the rear arms
Receiver - use a balloon to protect the receiver from fuel spills
Servo mount - be carefull not to overtighten the screw which joins the front brace with the steering servo mount - it strips easily.
Receiver pack - there were early reports of poorly constructed receiver battery packs. It would pay to remove the shrink wrap and check the joints to make sure they are secure. Mine was OK but many were not. A dead receiver pack can cause a runaway even with a failsafe attached.
Brake Piston - make sure you apply some grease to the brake piston where it meets the cutout in the alloy shaft
Carbon Fibre - seal the edges of any carbon fibre parts with CA glue. I found it easisest to apply with an ear bud/Qtip. You'll need 5 or 6 to finish the job.
Antenna - drill out the hole on the carbon fibre upper deck where the antenna comes through and glue in a piece of antenna tube to stop the antenna wire rubbing on the carbon fibre. Also make sure that the hole in the allow antenna mount is big enough for your wire without cutting or wearing through the outer layer.
Shock Assembly - These can be a bit tricky. You can try gluing the bladder to the eyelet with some CA glue, although I found that the orange silicon bladders do not stick very well. The other suggestion is to glue the eyelet to the shock cap. If you are hesitant to do either, just take your time and try putting a small piece of foam on top of the bladder. The Tamiya red foams are a pretty good fit and can be found at most LHS.
Otherwise, the stock setup is a pretty good starting point. Good luck and have fun.
05-03-2007, 08:54 PM
#6367
what do you mean by "LHS" ?
is it an abbreviated word for somgthing?
is it an abbreviated word for somgthing?
05-03-2007, 09:05 PM
#6368
Originally Posted by gansei
what do you mean by "LHS" ?
is it an abbreviated word for somgthing?
is it an abbreviated word for somgthing?
05-03-2007, 09:28 PM
#6369
Originally Posted by Johnny9s
My G4S showed up today!! I am going to start building it tonight. I tried looking through this forum but with over 6000 posts it was hard to find specific tips on building.
If anyone can post any tips or modifications I should do as I build I would really appreciate it.
Thanks for your time.
John
If anyone can post any tips or modifications I should do as I build I would really appreciate it.
Thanks for your time.
John
Another tip is to ensure the two speed adjusting screws are no longer then 15mm. If they are they may foul your two speed housing.
Other then that.............follow the instructions. It's a good manual.
Another I just thought of to watch for.
Make sure you get the adjustment right on the brake pad gap around the disk......once the rear is together you can't access the lower screw because of the new rear belt tension adjuster!
Have fun in the build.
Menace
05-03-2007, 09:34 PM
#6370
Originally Posted by Pattojnr
first thing is, is it a g4s or g4 mongoose/c/e. these plates are different. also the long plate with the side belt tensioner, is on the engine pipe side. the K factory chassis that you have is designed for the mongoose/C/E G4. so i do hope you have one of these and not the G4S.
It is just the g4 RTR but not the RTRg4S, All the hop up parts fit right but the servo.
Thanks rod
05-03-2007, 09:46 PM
#6371
sry wrong post
Last edited by johnhsp; 05-03-2007 at 11:04 PM.
05-03-2007, 11:24 PM
#6373
Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak
click my signature link easy AZZZ enjoy 
05-04-2007, 01:32 AM
#6374
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
You have a very impressive build guide - one of the best I've ever seen. Extremely well written and great photos. Excellent job! A+
05-04-2007, 03:23 AM
#6375
Originally Posted by British Menace
Try finding any post by Hodak Kodak on here and go to his G4s Build Blog. That also includes many tips and much good advice.
Another tip is to ensure the two speed adjusting screws are no longer then 15mm. If they are they may foul your two speed housing.
Other then that.............follow the instructions. It's a good manual.
Another I just thought of to watch for.
Make sure you get the adjustment right on the brake pad gap around the disk......once the rear is together you can't access the lower screw because of the new rear belt tension adjuster!
Have fun in the build.
Menace
Another tip is to ensure the two speed adjusting screws are no longer then 15mm. If they are they may foul your two speed housing.
Other then that.............follow the instructions. It's a good manual.
Another I just thought of to watch for.
Make sure you get the adjustment right on the brake pad gap around the disk......once the rear is together you can't access the lower screw because of the new rear belt tension adjuster!
Have fun in the build.
Menace