Team Magic G4
#5971
I am sorry Gansei.....
What problem did you have with your spektrum?
Will you use your friends car in the race tommorow?
I wish you well Gansei.
I hope everything will be ok and you have a great day tommorow.
Menace
#5972
Originally Posted by British Menace
I am sorry Gansei.....
What problem did you have with your spektrum?
Will you use your friends car in the race tommorow?
I wish you well Gansei.
I hope everything will be ok and you have a great day tommorow.
Menace
two board are splited by vibration.
then.. no control occurred.
so i put some sponge into specktrum receiver not to split.
i will not use my friend G4S.. only for part... against another accident.
i could not complete engine setting and car setting.
so i must setup my car,engine during the race.
#5973
Originally Posted by Z00M
It is a direct fit to all G4 models. However, you would need a UFO clutch for it to work(clutch bell is UFO size) as well as S-Class gears.
Earlier cars (C and E class) would need an S-Class gear set and a UFO clutch as well an ED transmission. A G4 Evo or a Mongoose came with S-Class gears so would only need a UFO clutch to work with the ED transmission.
Earlier cars (C and E class) would need an S-Class gear set and a UFO clutch as well an ED transmission. A G4 Evo or a Mongoose came with S-Class gears so would only need a UFO clutch to work with the ED transmission.
#5974
Originally Posted by gansei
spektrum board organization are two board combined by 10~12 pins
two board are splited by vibration.
then.. no control occurred.
so i put some sponge into specktrum receiver not to split.
i will not use my friend G4S.. only for part... against another accident.
i could not complete engine setting and car setting.
so i must setup my car,engine during the race.
two board are splited by vibration.
then.. no control occurred.
so i put some sponge into specktrum receiver not to split.
i will not use my friend G4S.. only for part... against another accident.
i could not complete engine setting and car setting.
so i must setup my car,engine during the race.
#5975
Gansei, we're after you, we know you'll do your best.. Here's a small tip;
I put receiver cover backwards and put heatshield material on to it against excesive heat from engine;
I put receiver cover backwards and put heatshield material on to it against excesive heat from engine;
#5976
Originally Posted by gansei
spektrum board organization are two board combined by 10~12 pins
two board are splited by vibration.
then.. no control occurred.
so i put some sponge into specktrum receiver not to split.
i will not use my friend G4S.. only for part... against another accident.
i could not complete engine setting and car setting.
so i must setup my car,engine during the race.
two board are splited by vibration.
then.. no control occurred.
so i put some sponge into specktrum receiver not to split.
i will not use my friend G4S.. only for part... against another accident.
i could not complete engine setting and car setting.
so i must setup my car,engine during the race.
Well Gansei my metal friend...I would highly reccomend throwing in some OLD Metallica and cranking it up to help get rid of some of that frustration and stress. I usually play Slayer myself when I'm stressed out like this. Play "Kill 'em All" the entire CD!! This will help my friend.
I wish you the best of luck bro regardless. You can still pull this off as you are one of the most talented drivers I have the pleasure to know. I also hope that you have a more excperienced pit man this round. Keep your chin up, take 15 minutes to meditate if you have time and it will all come together my friend. Then race your ass off! Don't forget to have fun while you are passing the competition! It is VERY easy to get caught up in the hussle and bussle of racing, and the FUN factor still has to remain first. If it doesn't then it just became a job more then a hobby. A pretty serious hobby to lots of us...but seriously FUN!!!! I'll stop now. You know what you need to do bro, just go out and do your best, that's all you need to do. Again good luck and I will be praying to the race Gods for you. Be sure to keep us informed and updated as you always do bro. Take care my friend, and will be looking for your update. Later bro!!!
#5977
Tech Adept
I am putting together my order for my G4S from raceday hobbies today. So far I am ordering the G4S, IDM Evo 3, (not sure which pipe to get), ED transmission, 900mah reciver pack.
Is there anything else I should order? I have asked Sam for a perimter or crash kit.
Can't wait to get the kit and hit the road with Nitro again.
Is there anything else I should order? I have asked Sam for a perimter or crash kit.
Can't wait to get the kit and hit the road with Nitro again.
#5978
Tech Champion
iTrader: (44)
Steering Upgrade from G4 - one more time. Sorry.
Okay, I've done a lot of looking from back several posts and I also asked Sam and after all that I am still a little confused. Sorry Sam but you told me to ask the guys in the forum also.
Anyways, I know that I should get the conversion kit that would have all the parts I need to do the conversion. Here's my question, on my G4 C I have the top brace 5th body post hole that lines up with a hole on the bottom of my chassis. This seems like the likely place for the steering pivot, however in looking at the size of the steering crank, it looks like there would be clearance issues with the front pulley. Now I was looking at detailed pictures of the G4S, and it looks like the steering pivot is actually about 5-8mm behind the 5th body post hole, if so then that would explain the clearance issues but what about the hole on the bottom my chassis? Do I need to drill a new hole on the chassis to accomodate this mod?
If someone has done this mod successfully, please explain.
Anyways, I know that I should get the conversion kit that would have all the parts I need to do the conversion. Here's my question, on my G4 C I have the top brace 5th body post hole that lines up with a hole on the bottom of my chassis. This seems like the likely place for the steering pivot, however in looking at the size of the steering crank, it looks like there would be clearance issues with the front pulley. Now I was looking at detailed pictures of the G4S, and it looks like the steering pivot is actually about 5-8mm behind the 5th body post hole, if so then that would explain the clearance issues but what about the hole on the bottom my chassis? Do I need to drill a new hole on the chassis to accomodate this mod?
If someone has done this mod successfully, please explain.
#5979
Originally Posted by Johnny9s
I am putting together my order for my G4S from raceday hobbies today. So far I am ordering the G4S, IDM Evo 3, (not sure which pipe to get), ED transmission, 900mah reciver pack.
Is there anything else I should order? I have asked Sam for a perimter or crash kit.
Can't wait to get the kit and hit the road with Nitro again.
Is there anything else I should order? I have asked Sam for a perimter or crash kit.
Can't wait to get the kit and hit the road with Nitro again.
#5980
Tech Adept
Thanks for the reply. I forgot that I am odering K Factory tires. I was thinking 2 sets of front 38's, 2 sets or rear 38's and 2 sets of rear 40's. I am racing in a parking lot road course. Traction is med at best and the course is a mix of technical and speed. In the summer it can get up to 90 degrees but it is usually around the low to mid 80's (Vancouver BC). Will these tires be fine or should I look at other shore ratings?
#5981
Originally Posted by Johnny9s
Thanks for the reply. I forgot that I am odering K Factory tires. I was thinking 2 sets of front 38's, 2 sets or rear 38's and 2 sets of rear 40's. I am racing in a parking lot road course. Traction is med at best and the course is a mix of technical and speed. In the summer it can get up to 90 degrees but it is usually around the low to mid 80's (Vancouver BC). Will these tires be fine or should I look at other shore ratings?
#5982
Tech Adept
Thanks SerpentD!!
I am just waiting for Sam to send me my invoice now and I will be good to go. This thread and the people posting in it are one of the big reasons I decided to get the G4S.
I am just waiting for Sam to send me my invoice now and I will be good to go. This thread and the people posting in it are one of the big reasons I decided to get the G4S.
#5983
Tech Elite
iTrader: (19)
Originally Posted by YR4Dude
Okay, I've done a lot of looking from back several posts and I also asked Sam and after all that I am still a little confused. Sorry Sam but you told me to ask the guys in the forum also.
Anyways, I know that I should get the conversion kit that would have all the parts I need to do the conversion. Here's my question, on my G4 C I have the top brace 5th body post hole that lines up with a hole on the bottom of my chassis. This seems like the likely place for the steering pivot, however in looking at the size of the steering crank, it looks like there would be clearance issues with the front pulley. Now I was looking at detailed pictures of the G4S, and it looks like the steering pivot is actually about 5-8mm behind the 5th body post hole, if so then that would explain the clearance issues but what about the hole on the bottom my chassis? Do I need to drill a new hole on the chassis to accomodate this mod?
If someone has done this mod successfully, please explain.
Anyways, I know that I should get the conversion kit that would have all the parts I need to do the conversion. Here's my question, on my G4 C I have the top brace 5th body post hole that lines up with a hole on the bottom of my chassis. This seems like the likely place for the steering pivot, however in looking at the size of the steering crank, it looks like there would be clearance issues with the front pulley. Now I was looking at detailed pictures of the G4S, and it looks like the steering pivot is actually about 5-8mm behind the 5th body post hole, if so then that would explain the clearance issues but what about the hole on the bottom my chassis? Do I need to drill a new hole on the chassis to accomodate this mod?
If someone has done this mod successfully, please explain.
#5984
Originally Posted by YR4Dude
Okay, I've done a lot of looking from back several posts and I also asked Sam and after all that I am still a little confused. Sorry Sam but you told me to ask the guys in the forum also.
Anyways, I know that I should get the conversion kit that would have all the parts I need to do the conversion. Here's my question, on my G4 C I have the top brace 5th body post hole that lines up with a hole on the bottom of my chassis. This seems like the likely place for the steering pivot, however in looking at the size of the steering crank, it looks like there would be clearance issues with the front pulley. Now I was looking at detailed pictures of the G4S, and it looks like the steering pivot is actually about 5-8mm behind the 5th body post hole, if so then that would explain the clearance issues but what about the hole on the bottom my chassis? Do I need to drill a new hole on the chassis to accomodate this mod?
If someone has done this mod successfully, please explain.
Anyways, I know that I should get the conversion kit that would have all the parts I need to do the conversion. Here's my question, on my G4 C I have the top brace 5th body post hole that lines up with a hole on the bottom of my chassis. This seems like the likely place for the steering pivot, however in looking at the size of the steering crank, it looks like there would be clearance issues with the front pulley. Now I was looking at detailed pictures of the G4S, and it looks like the steering pivot is actually about 5-8mm behind the 5th body post hole, if so then that would explain the clearance issues but what about the hole on the bottom my chassis? Do I need to drill a new hole on the chassis to accomodate this mod?
If someone has done this mod successfully, please explain.
i have done this conversion on a stock C - Class G4. yes u do have to drill the hole in the chassis.there is a hole relocater for the 5 body post and you can judge from it where to drill the chassis hole..you also need to counter sink the hole so screw doesn't stick out past bottom of chassis..it's pretty simple but there are NO instruction's with package..but you will diffently like the result's..i'd post pic's but i have since changed to the carbon fiber chassis..that was a BIG inprovement for me...it'let's chassis remain flat after hard crash because of the carbon fiber..it allow's some flex ..i'm not the best driver and here they have board retaining wall's , so it get's alittle tough on your car.....good luck w/conversion...hit me up if you have problem..