Team Magic G4
#3213
502315 G4 Differential Set
502120 G4 Nylon Front Pulley Set (w/screw)
If you are using ED system, please use the pulley below.
K14122-9 G4 ED HC Alum. 30T Front Pulley (for front differential)
I love my new Avatar. I also use it as my MSN icon. Thanks, Kodak.
502120 G4 Nylon Front Pulley Set (w/screw)
If you are using ED system, please use the pulley below.
K14122-9 G4 ED HC Alum. 30T Front Pulley (for front differential)
I love my new Avatar. I also use it as my MSN icon. Thanks, Kodak.
#3214
Tech Fanatic
Originally Posted by nickko
502315 G4 Differential Set
502120 G4 Nylon Front Pulley Set (w/screw)
If you are using ED system, please use the pulley below.
K14122-9 G4 ED HC Alum. 30T Front Pulley (for front differential)
I love my new Avatar. Thanks, Kodak.
502120 G4 Nylon Front Pulley Set (w/screw)
If you are using ED system, please use the pulley below.
K14122-9 G4 ED HC Alum. 30T Front Pulley (for front differential)
I love my new Avatar. Thanks, Kodak.
RC_Alan
#3216
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
back again with Pt.3 of the Build.... enjoy once again
http://kodakhodak.blogspot.com/2007/...ld-up-pt3.html
http://kodakhodak.blogspot.com/2007/...ld-up-pt3.html
#3219
Originally Posted by uniquexme
question on front & rear gear diff oil, may i know wats the best combination for it?
i used frequently front diff 50000wt, rear diff 40000wt.(or 30000wt)
(front 100000wt ~ 50000wt)
(rear 50000wt ~ 10000wt)
#3221
Originally Posted by uniquexme
another quick question. i m getting the Nova 2630 pipe, but no idea on how many fins manifold to get. m using palmaris on g4s.
Id be interested how the engine runs with the 2630 .
Just ordered the Skyline VR12 plus pipe from Sam ,looking forward to running it.
My PR12 is really hauling ,only worry is I am border line on runtime.Little bit more tweeking to do.
#3222
Ive been running 10000 rear and 30000 front ,have gone to 50000 front and 30000 rear and its a world of difference.
#3223
Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak
Ahhh thanks for the tip, i shall be using a Spektrum reciever so its cystal free, will it matter if its the way shown in my blogg?
Or should i swap the mounting around for future?
Or should i swap the mounting around for future?
With it mounted on the cover ,you dont have to pull the wiring and aerial out to check the plugs or to bind the transciever.Also a lot neater on the wiring side.
Forgot to mention stripping your reciever pack and soldering all the contacts between the cells ,thats what has been giving us runaways.You can shrink wrap it after you finish solder it.
Also on the battery plug that replaces the on/off switch Id suggest super glueing a small cable tie in the 3rd slot/hole thats not used.The head of the cable tie gives you something to grip when pulling out the plug ,prevents you pulling out the wire.
#3224
Originally Posted by uniquexme
anyone's rear ball diff broke? coz mine and my frenz's ball diff screw broke. i wonder if there is any replacement for the screw itself.
K1453-5 ball diff screw and hardware.
Before changing to the ED ,I ran the ball diff and realy liked the way the car ran with it.
#3225
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (12)
Originally Posted by razzor
When installing try it out ,you would understand why.
With it mounted on the cover ,you dont have to pull the wiring and aerial out to check the plugs or to bind the transciever.Also a lot neater on the wiring side.
Forgot to mention stripping your reciever pack and soldering all the contacts between the cells ,thats what has been giving us runaways.You can shrink wrap it after you finish solder it.
Also on the battery plug that replaces the on/off switch Id suggest super glueing a small cable tie in the 3rd slot/hole thats not used.The head of the cable tie gives you something to grip when pulling out the plug ,prevents you pulling out the wire.
With it mounted on the cover ,you dont have to pull the wiring and aerial out to check the plugs or to bind the transciever.Also a lot neater on the wiring side.
Forgot to mention stripping your reciever pack and soldering all the contacts between the cells ,thats what has been giving us runaways.You can shrink wrap it after you finish solder it.
Also on the battery plug that replaces the on/off switch Id suggest super glueing a small cable tie in the 3rd slot/hole thats not used.The head of the cable tie gives you something to grip when pulling out the plug ,prevents you pulling out the wire.
can u show us a photo of the cable tie on the battery cable? coz i dun quite understand.