Serpent 705
#1426
InitialD
Wasn't those excerpts you posted from 2barjones from the early Serpent forums? I could be mistaken.
Wasn't those excerpts you posted from 2barjones from the early Serpent forums? I could be mistaken.
#1427
Originally posted by RoyU
Seems to give the shocks a smoother action, more consistent. Prevents the shock piston from pushing the memebrane up into the cap and creating an air pocket where air and oil will mix and changing the oil viscocity. That's what I think, could be wrong.
Maybe InitialD has a better explanation.
Seems to give the shocks a smoother action, more consistent. Prevents the shock piston from pushing the memebrane up into the cap and creating an air pocket where air and oil will mix and changing the oil viscocity. That's what I think, could be wrong.
Maybe InitialD has a better explanation.
I think you're right on this one. There seems to be very small but significant in terms of performance upgrades in the shocks department. First it was the purple o rings (909407). Now it is these sponges / foams in the shocks...
Anyway, they are used the same in the NTC3 shocks. I find that the NTC3 shocks are very smooth and consistant. So your explanation that the inserts provide smoother shock action does make sense
Instead of waiting for this part to be available, I'll probably try your idea of inserting fuel tubing. Else, I can get some of my NTC3 friends to donate some of these sponge inserts to a poor Serpent guy... Thanks for the input
#1428
Originally posted by RoyU
InitialD
Wasn't those excerpts you posted from 2barjones from the early Serpent forums? I could be mistaken.
InitialD
Wasn't those excerpts you posted from 2barjones from the early Serpent forums? I could be mistaken.
#1429
Re: Re: Weights
Originally posted by nizee
Hmmm....the Titanium Pivot ball is so "EXPENSIVE" there, i can't believe it. Anyhow, let me know if you need cheaper ones.
35g higher on that FPS doesn't really matter to what the FPS have to offer!!! They are so smooth rotation and dirt can't really get into the balls compare to the stock diff. Compensate weight with the light alu screws and hollow mid shaft, etc...
BTW, don't you think the stock pivot ball (without shaving it down) on the FC steering going to make your car wider on the front? I have to shave mine a bit to 21.63mm total length to have smaller width and better handling.
Hmmm....the Titanium Pivot ball is so "EXPENSIVE" there, i can't believe it. Anyhow, let me know if you need cheaper ones.
35g higher on that FPS doesn't really matter to what the FPS have to offer!!! They are so smooth rotation and dirt can't really get into the balls compare to the stock diff. Compensate weight with the light alu screws and hollow mid shaft, etc...
BTW, don't you think the stock pivot ball (without shaving it down) on the FC steering going to make your car wider on the front? I have to shave mine a bit to 21.63mm total length to have smaller width and better handling.
As for the pivot ball, I'm still using the stock steel pivot balls uncut. Yes, they make the front end wider. I screw mine in to the maximum and I get about 200 mm at best. How much is your track width? I know that a narower front end is better for steering. But I don't think that cutting it down shorter will make the front end narower. I have mine screwed in till there's hardly a gap between the knuckle and the tip of the arm where the pivot balls screw in.
I think that is why it is mentioned that the shortened pivot balls specifically meant for the new FC steering blocks are different in shape than the stock pivot balls. I think these new shortened pivot balls have larger head (just speculation and not confirmed yet) and there it sits in LESS deeper in the FC stering blocks and this allows the FC steering blocks to be mounted as close to the arms as possible giving less front track width. I think this explains why I was getting problems with the stock pivot balls keep popping out of the FC steering block because the stock ones sit in very deep in the FC steering block.
I have yet to try and use these shortened pivot balls. I hope when I get back, I have the time to work on it. I'll PM you on the titanium pivot balls if I'm interested
#1430
Re: Radio Interference
Originally posted by khyber
Guys I have a radio interference slightly when one or two ppl playing together with me but it is getting out of control during the race when 10 ppl come in together by my side on the driver stand. Surprisingly it runs well when I run by myself. What seems to be the problem ???? Receiver ?? Transmitter??? I have changed everything else other than this two .... Help!!!!!
Guys I have a radio interference slightly when one or two ppl playing together with me but it is getting out of control during the race when 10 ppl come in together by my side on the driver stand. Surprisingly it runs well when I run by myself. What seems to be the problem ???? Receiver ?? Transmitter??? I have changed everything else other than this two .... Help!!!!!
Else like what nizee has suggested, use your friend's crystals or your friends's receiver / transmitter and mount it on your car. It could also be that some metal parts are touching on your car and creating harmonics which could also be a source for your disturbance problems. Check to see if everything is secured tightly and no metal parts have the tendency of vibrating.
What exhaust are you using? 2 piece type mounted with a silicone coupler? That could be a culprit too depending on how you mounted your exhaust manifold and pipe. Make sure that the exhaust manifiold and the pipe do not touch each other.
#1431
Tech Regular
Originally posted by InitialD
Me better explanation?
I think you're right on this one. There seems to be very small but significant in terms of performance upgrades in the shocks department. First it was the purple o rings (909407). Now it is these sponges / foams in the shocks...
Anyway, they are used the same in the NTC3 shocks. I find that the NTC3 shocks are very smooth and consistant. So your explanation that the inserts provide smoother shock action does make sense
Instead of waiting for this part to be available, I'll probably try your idea of inserting fuel tubing. Else, I can get some of my NTC3 friends to donate some of these sponge inserts to a poor Serpent guy... Thanks for the input
Me better explanation?
I think you're right on this one. There seems to be very small but significant in terms of performance upgrades in the shocks department. First it was the purple o rings (909407). Now it is these sponges / foams in the shocks...
Anyway, they are used the same in the NTC3 shocks. I find that the NTC3 shocks are very smooth and consistant. So your explanation that the inserts provide smoother shock action does make sense
Instead of waiting for this part to be available, I'll probably try your idea of inserting fuel tubing. Else, I can get some of my NTC3 friends to donate some of these sponge inserts to a poor Serpent guy... Thanks for the input
Anyway, that is just my OPINION and theory, though i could be wrong, but what i learn that without that piece, i use to have my membrane deform that don't push back, everytime i re-built my shock. That small cushion helps.
#1432
Tech Apprentice
FPS Differential
InitialD, or anyone else who may have the answer. Is there any modifications needed to switch from the stock ball diff, to the FPS diff? Also, what are the advantages with switching to the FPS diff?
#1433
Tech Regular
Re: FPS Differential
Originally posted by DSR
InitialD, or anyone else who may have the answer. Is there any modifications needed to switch from the stock ball diff, to the FPS diff? Also, what are the advantages with switching to the FPS diff?
InitialD, or anyone else who may have the answer. Is there any modifications needed to switch from the stock ball diff, to the FPS diff? Also, what are the advantages with switching to the FPS diff?
Advatange?
1) Super smooth differential action.
2) Easily fine adjustment thru' fiction plate, instead of grub screw on the stock diff.
3) Less maintainance compare to stock (less re-built coz dirt hardly goes into the balls).
Better still, read all about it in mytsn.com below. D
http://www.mytsn.com/products/desc.asp?prid=433
#1435
no switch on real race cars.. just use a servo extension and plug the pack in.. also .5 amps on the nimmhs
#1436
Originally posted by nizee
If you want to mimic the serpent part, what i did was use the center piece of the body cushion, that you suppose to throw it away when placing it into your body, but instead use that center round piece on that membrane. The adhesive side goes on the pivot. It is much softer then the fuel tubing without damaging it, yet allow the membrane to deform during compression, it function is to push back the membrane after compression to maintain the pressure.
Anyway, that is just my OPINION and theory, though i could be wrong, but what i learn that without that piece, i use to have my membrane deform that don't push back, everytime i re-built my shock. That small cushion helps.
If you want to mimic the serpent part, what i did was use the center piece of the body cushion, that you suppose to throw it away when placing it into your body, but instead use that center round piece on that membrane. The adhesive side goes on the pivot. It is much softer then the fuel tubing without damaging it, yet allow the membrane to deform during compression, it function is to push back the membrane after compression to maintain the pressure.
Anyway, that is just my OPINION and theory, though i could be wrong, but what i learn that without that piece, i use to have my membrane deform that don't push back, everytime i re-built my shock. That small cushion helps.
#1437
Tech Regular
Originally posted by InitialD
Nizee, what body cushion is this? Am I correct to assume that you're refferring to the circular foam cushion that you put on the body post to preserve the paint on the nice body shell from being scratched by the body clips? Yes, the center piece of that foam body cushion looks like a perfect fit. Thanks for the idea. Will try that out.
Nizee, what body cushion is this? Am I correct to assume that you're refferring to the circular foam cushion that you put on the body post to preserve the paint on the nice body shell from being scratched by the body clips? Yes, the center piece of that foam body cushion looks like a perfect fit. Thanks for the idea. Will try that out.
You can use 2 pcs in them IF you want.
#1438
Re: Re: FPS Differential
Originally posted by nizee
3) Less maintainance compare to stock (less re-built coz dirt hardly goes into the balls).
3) Less maintainance compare to stock (less re-built coz dirt hardly goes into the balls).
#1439
Originally posted by ammdrew
no switch on real race cars.. just use a servo extension and plug the pack in.. also .5 amps on the nimmhs
no switch on real race cars.. just use a servo extension and plug the pack in.. also .5 amps on the nimmhs
#1440
Originally posted by tony montana
ok guys finally done assembling my 705. I put together my 5 cell AAA recicver pack, what charge rate should I charge it at? One thing that I dont like about the car already there is no spot on the upper deck for a on off switch.
ok guys finally done assembling my 705. I put together my 5 cell AAA recicver pack, what charge rate should I charge it at? One thing that I dont like about the car already there is no spot on the upper deck for a on off switch.
I've seen a switch made by KO which is good. Can't remember the part number. To switch on, you need to depress the button and hold it for a few seconds. I feel that is quite safe.
Michael Salven also uses a switch from Conrad Electronic in Germany at www.conrad.com. It is a micro switch (Deutsch: Sub-Miniaturschalter) which is water resistant. I don't know if it is the same as the KO one. Part number for the sub miniature switch is 705195 - 62. It's EURO 2.53. You cannot view the item but you can order it. I think it ships international.
I myself do not use a switch. Like what Andrew mentioned, I use a KO servo extension wire and plug it in manually.