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Old 05-14-2003, 06:08 PM
  #1396  
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Talking Agree!!

The only problems I have had with my Snake so far is the crap quality of the Carbon Fibre and the soft allen head screws wearing out
I hate that allen head screews too!!,, besides that, any problems with the car yet,, I've been reading here and in MYTSN forum , and that really help me to prevent future damages in the car, prevent is the key here!!

Lost man ,, last week i put that expensive pivot balls in my car and they feel great,, but they are very weak too , you have to stay out of the boards to avoid any damage to the car,, but you have to keep something in mind ,, the sankes are pretty heavy too, so a little help will keep you hooked on the road with the real competence

Ciao!!
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Old 05-14-2003, 06:20 PM
  #1397  
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"The only problems I have had with my Snake so far is the crap quality of the Carbon Fibre and the soft allen head screws wearing out" To be honest with you i havent really had any problems with the allen screws. are you (paul, modeller) using regular "L" shaped allen wrenches? I dont use those "L" shaped wrenches because they themselfs are total CRAP, I use Dynomite wrenches..they seem to grip the allen heads VERY well..Man i hope i dont run into any problems with those screws!. And i think i know what your talking about when you say the carbon fiber is crap, i believe your talking about the holes on the radio tray?.?. What did you do to solve it? Did you drill out the tray? .?
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Old 05-14-2003, 07:37 PM
  #1398  
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No L shape keys here. Only $60 worth of Snap-On allen wrenches.

Just a pity they dont make the 1.5mm wrench. I have the 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm and 6mm ones.

I think they are the best on the market.

I do a lot of Carbon Machine work so I just worked the holes out a little to let the screws drop in. But I am going to cut a new radio tray and star for the personal transponder ($15)
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Old 05-14-2003, 07:45 PM
  #1399  
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Don't forget the Hudy tools,, there awsome tools too!! the Snap-on ones are too expensive!!!
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Old 05-14-2003, 07:48 PM
  #1400  
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Yeah. But when you know how to break them you get a nice new shiny set every year free under the lifetime warranty
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Old 05-14-2003, 07:53 PM
  #1401  
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Default Re: Cleaning and breaking down

Originally posted by lost man
Has anyone found the difference in weight between the hollow mid shaft and the standard one?, what about the standard pivot balls and the aluminum ones,
I do not know the exact figure, since i don have scale but i do feel the different between Mid shaft and the standard one, it is almost half the weight. For the Pivot Ball, The Alu Pivot Ball is incredibly less weight compare to the stock pivot ball, when i weight both on my hand. But i kinda skepticle about the durability of this Alu. Pivot Ball.

Originally posted by lost man
Hey niz do you know the difference between the titanium two speed shaft and the standard one?
The main different would be the Titanium are much lighter compare to stock shaft. That would actually improve your drivetrain and overall weight of your car by just a tad.
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Old 05-14-2003, 09:26 PM
  #1402  
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My 705 is running great! After last big SWCS race here in Texas , nothing broke just my pt came off!
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Old 05-15-2003, 06:50 PM
  #1403  
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Cool

Heheheh...about time Pit!!


The Texas Biggie next
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Old 05-16-2003, 08:32 PM
  #1404  
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FS:Serpent impulse parts lot.Check it out!


http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...threadid=18115
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Old 05-17-2003, 09:29 PM
  #1405  
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Default side exhaust pipe

Hey guys any one know of a side exhaust header that will fit the impulse beside the serpent header?

Thanks
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Old 05-18-2003, 01:45 PM
  #1406  
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Some one here has a Mugen side ex. header I think. Don't know if he has the side brace on?
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Old 05-18-2003, 08:18 PM
  #1407  
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Originally posted by modellor
The only problems I have had with my Snake so far is the crap quality of the Carbon Fibre and the soft allen head screws wearing out. I had to do some work to both the Radio Tray and the rear bodypost mount to get them to fit without any problems.
But then again Carbon Fibre parts on Serpents have always been poor anyway.

Other than that I havent had any problems and I strip my car down after each weekend too. I changed most of the screws to Phillips type as they are more forgiving when the plastic is hard to tap into.
I never liked Philips type screws especially if it goes into aluminum parts. The head strips fairly easily. I only used them on the upper deck and the bottom of the chassis that goes into the plastic parts as you don't really need to lock the screws down hard when you're assembling them back. I prefer allen type especially for the engine mounts and there is even no need for thread locking.

As for the carbon fibre parts, I am pretty happy with it. The 705 carbon graphite upper deck is pretty rigid. I know because a friend had a head on colision with Mr. Wall because of the faulty receiver pack wiring and the upper deck was unscattered whilst the tank broke and the front part pof the chassis bent slightly. Other than that, no parts broken

I think the trick is to sand the sides of the upper deck lightly, dry them and use think CA glue to close the side gaps. The only "weak" graphite part was the right side tensioner near the pinions. Mine broke where the screws locks onto the rear bulkhead. Then again, that was due to a side impact.
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Old 05-18-2003, 08:19 PM
  #1408  
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Default Re: that shed a little light.

Originally posted by lost man
Thanks niz, I didnt know that the stock balls were that expensive.
Yes, but you never have to replace them... At least I have not (knock on wood) on the Impulse PRO that I have been running all this while. They are that strong and not like the claimed titanium pivot balls from another car which brakes easier than our stock steel ones In fact, come to think of it, I have never seen any stock Impulse pivot balls break.
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Old 05-18-2003, 08:28 PM
  #1409  
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Originally posted by PUNISHER
Yup!
Nizee picked some up of those 800mah GP batts for ME!!

Great buy off of e-bay!!
How much did you get it off ebay?
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Old 05-18-2003, 08:32 PM
  #1410  
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Originally posted by InitialD
I never liked Philips type screws especially if it goes into aluminum parts. The head strips fairly easily. I only used them on the upper deck and the bottom of the chassis that goes into the plastic parts as you don't really need to lock the screws down hard when you're assembling them back. I prefer allen type especially for the engine mounts and there is even no need for thread locking.
I once had this type of a problem,the solution is to use the best tools.Although they are expensive(remember life time waranty)snap on tools are the way to go if you are thinking about staying in this hobby for a while.The phillips screwdrivers i use have special grooved cuts in the head(forgot what they call it)which prevents slippage that rounds of the screws.Although i know such expensive tools aren't for everyone,maybe just something to keep in mind if you're in it for the long haul.
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