bt

Thanks for your reply InitialD it is appreciated
bt

it

HI!


I run both, I have a 705 and a Pro that is about a 705.

On my pro I did not use the shock towers. For some reason I really comfortable not using the towers and not confusing myself which hole to use. Yes, I run solid axle and solid rear. I felt more push in the car. Especially, running 13/17 and 45/49.

Here is my set up: it might not work for others, but it works great for me.

Comments: A main awesome handling and great accelration. Like what I said it kind a handle like my 8th scales. Not totally the same, but the feeling is there.


FRont Set up:

Toe in: 0
anti roll bar: 45 degree
trans: One-way
shocKs: Red w/ 30 oil hole #2
Tires: Arrows 26 width 40 shore

Rear:

Toe in: 2.5 degree
Anti rollbar: I think its .5 Soft Stock of 705
trans: Solid axle, 47 (808353) /22 (909242), belt , (6361)

Shocks: yellow 30 oil #2 hole.
Tires: CRC 35 width 42 shore


Motor: Rb 5 port 310, Novarossi S5, Nova mega Ms 5 port. All motors about the same, but in my opinoin the Novarossi has more consistency!!

Clutch: 13/17 45/49


Track: small and I will say some Medium
weather: about 75 to 85 F
Fuel; BK 25%


Like what I said it might not work for some people, but this set brings me to the main.

coastaltony

iTrader: (13)

Some b*****d stole my VoneR & M-8 this past Sunday, and I am putting an Impulse StreetSpec in action.
I've never messed with one of these. Where do I store the wiring from the servos, rx pack, failsafe, on/off switch? I can try to stash it below the radio tray.

fmolzer

The wiering on the streetspec takes a bit of consideration to figure out. I think most people do something similar to what I did, istall all your electronics, then bundle up your wires and use shrinkwrap to keep it together, neatly stashed on the radio plate, you can also try to wind your wires around a screwdriver or similar and then pull it out. The wire will stay "curly´" and will not be all over your car. Consider dumping the switch alltogether and just plug you battery in when using the car. This is the safe way to do it anyway. Too bad you lost you VoneR

it

.


It really depends on which tray do u have.

U might have the ff:

1. stock plastic

2. Gpm graphite plate

3. Top Serpent plate

4. or the impulse pro plate, which has no mount for regular on and off switch.

The best way to do it is to pull the tray out, and make sure the antenna tube is close to the receiver. I zip tie some of the wires and place them in a neat formation. This is all up to u how u put ur wirings together.

coastaltony

iTrader: (13)

Thanks to both you guys.
I have the stock plastic radio tray.
If one of the after-market trays will work better, I am all ears.
I was informed to install the receiver
on the bottom side of the radio tray, with the connectors facing the fuel tank. (might be a pain plugging & un-plugging the battery)
As for a failsafe, use a device like the KoPropo electronic job, or do like Kyosho did and use a rubberband?

coastaltony

iTrader: (13)

Wires all nice and neat. Have the KoPropo switch & failsafe mounted.
This Impulse has a Nove Mega SX-12 rear exhaust, and the side belt appears to want to rub against the exhaust manifold.
This chassis is just about as bad as an HPI RS4 for the wires.
Any of you guys built or run a NTC3?
No wires anywhere.

RoyU

iTrader: (2)

If need to use a switch, the TOP radio tray has a place to mount the on/off switch. Other than that, get a servo extension and plug it into the battery plug on the receiver. That way you don't have to plug and unplug at the receiver. Hope this helps.

InitialD

You need the left side Chassis stiffner alu RE + belt tensioner (801132). The belt tensioner brings the side belt down so that it clears the exhaust manifold.

http://www.mytsn.com/products/desc.asp?prid=1852

It may be that the organisation of wires is as bad as the RS4 but it's no RS4 in terms of performance

InitialD

As for aftermarket radio plate, I like the Wolfpack one very much. Strong and sturdy and the receiver installs below the radio plate in between the tank and the throttle / brake servo. You can mount the receiver such that the crystal mounting faces towards the throttle / brake servo and in front of it. That way, you can access the crystal if you need to change it.

I also like the battery pack mounting which is directly behind the tank (in between the tank and radio tray support) and directly in the middle across the chassis. Good luck with the Streetspec.

InitialD

Hey modellor? How did you do in the recent Halifax Round 1 Summer Club Championships with the 705? I heard that overall, team Serpent did good...

InitialD

Did you install the 17T side pulley (801252) together with the 47T solid axle pulley and 22T brake pulley?

What are your front and rear droop settings? Front and rear camber?

The stock rear sway bar is 1.5mm thick. They actually just came out with a slightly harder 2mm version (808339).

modellor

I heard Serpent did well at it too but I dont race at Halifax for club championship rounds. I will be at it for the National Championships round later in a couple of months.

My local club is in Northern Ireland and so far this year the 705's have been dominating everything. I will be running mine this weekend for the first time. Had trouble finding rechargeable AAA cells here to make up a battery pack. Not gonna spend $50 for something I can make myself for $20

I can foresee a Serpent 1-2 finish in both our local club championship and the Irish National Championship . Third will probably go to the NTC3 full sponsor driver.

CRASH

iTrader: (26)

I was planning on getting a 705, then I heard that they are releasing a 705S or something to this sort to fix some of the problems with the 705. Is this true or a bunch of BS?

Thanks,

it

There u go I know Missed something. I used 1.5 real anti rollbar soft one. 2 mm is I think might be stiff in the rear. I tried the blade anti roll bar. I felt no suspension in the rear it was too stiff. I even used the impact wco2 stock it was just no suspension whatsoever. That might be good in Oval but not in the course. U may try 2 mm. If u run 30 to 35 width tires that 2 mm will not compensate that is really going to be stiff ur rear end. That is just not my driving style.

I did not change my side pulley I left as it is.

Here the rest of the set up I wrote it down and save it in My files:


Suspension geometry Front:
Downstops: +1mm
Set-up ride height:
Camber Left: -2mm
Camber Right: -2mm
Track-width: 199mm
Toe-in: -0 degree (toe-out)
Caster setting (mm in front): 4mm



Downstops: 7mm
Set-up ride height:
Camber Left: -2
Camber Right: -2
Spacer on upright:
Toe-in: 2.5 degree (toe-in)