ammdrew

iTrader: (25)

shock rods brake if you hit things.......

stay off the wall.. best fix,

the rs3 is pretty adequet.. and the novamega new threeport is okay.. the rtu is and always will be nearly king of the hill, and the last three j-techs i saw were just average.....

spend the money on tires... bet you loose way more on the infield than on the back stretch.

JJ187RC

iTrader: (7)

Do you know who does their mods?

Pit-racer

iTrader: (4)

I was running a nova this weekend w/ a roar spec modification done by the F-Man.We are testing these engines for the F-man and can only say that....sorry What tires were you running this weekend JJ?

chachi

I am so close to being finshed building the kit....and the centax clutch has me stumped. When I tighten down the shaft bolt, the clutch bell can't spin freely. And the manual is not particularly clear.

Can someone walk me through the assembly and adjustment of the centax clutch please (in simple)?

markp27

I too had some setup problems with the Centax, but the bell housing always spun freely.

The problem I had was that I hadn't tighten down the flywheel retaining nut properly (see step 8.1). As soon as someone pointed out this, my Centax was ok.

But, here's what I would do.

1) Make sure the flywheel retaining nut is screwed down properly - don't use too much force or else the threads may strip.

2) Follow the assembly instructions closely

3) Step 8.5: make sure the bearings A and B are the right way around.

4) Make accurate measurements of step 8.6 and place the necessary shims as shown in the diagram.
It is important here (and correct me if I'm wrong) only to place the clutch bell housing and the thrust bearings onto the drive shaft - do use the other bearings shown in step 8.7
Tighten the screw and make sure that the bell housing is sitting close to the clutch shoe. Now measure as shown for "A".
Then pull the bell housing away from the clutch shoe and take your second measurement, "B". Then follow the calculation to work out how many of the shims you need to add.
Measure the shims before placing them into position to make sure you add the correct number.

5) In step 8.7, I didn't actually place a shim onto the end of the clutch here, and certainly didn't understand what was meant by "Place small shims to remove all but a small amount of end play".
But make sure you have the bearing on the shaft correctly, as this is what the bell housing rotates on.

Without tightening the drive shaft screw (shaft bolt), make sure the bell housing can rotate freely on its bearings. If not, then There is a problem with on of the bearings or an alignment problem.
If the bell housing rotates ok, then screw in the drive shaft screw, ensuring all the bearings are correctly placed on the thrust bearing carrier.

That should be all you need to do.

InitialD

chachi, I believe Mark is correct on this one. Just follow the instructions. What he has outlined is correct. I believe your problem lies in that you added too much shims in step 8.6 than required.

How many shims did you put in? Perhaps you can run us through and tell us what your A and B values are that you measured and see if you did it correct.

My A - B value was 1.0 mm. So using the default recommended clutch spacing as 0.7 mm, I added only 1 piece of a 0.3 mm shim i.e. 1.0 - 0.7.

After you fit the shims as in the last picture in step 8.6, proceed to assemble the whole clutch. You will probably find that there is still some play in the clutch bell just like the time you measured A and B values but this time the end play is a little smaller.

What you do is to take the same shims you have left from step 8.6 and put it like it is done in step 8.7. Keep adding till you finally get a very small amount of end play. I believe on mine I have a total of about 0.6 mm shims in step 8.7.

If the end play is too much, your clutch will still work but then over time you will find that your trust bearing wears out faster.

markp27

Hi InitialD,

just going through my setup of the 705 and so far I've found one shock with a lot of air in the oil! I'm just refilling the affected shocks and then I'll do the full standard setup and see if I have any tweak.
Unfortunately I don't have a tweak station and I'll not be able to get one for a couple of weeks. In the mean time, I'll use the instructions in the 705 manual.

Lets see how this goes.

Thanks, Mark.

JJ187RC

iTrader: (7)

Pit, I was runnin 40's all the way around.

Who is someone good to do mods on engines around here? I am going to get a couple of new ones and have one of them modified. ROAR legal of course.

InitialD

Yes, the method in the manual works. While waiting for the tweakstation to come, something is better than none. But I find it very demanding on my eyes... When you have to do it many times, then you'll know what I mean. So for me the best is actually a tweakstation.

In fact rccarinternational sells the MIP tweakstation for about EURO 57.14 excluding tax.

PUNISHER

iTrader: (2)

Hey JJ,
Mike Q from Speedline dose modifies motors.

Also it was nice to finally meet you!!

JJ187RC

iTrader: (7)

Well, I am buying a new MT12 and am thinking of getting another one and was wondering who is good at modifications.

Same here, it was nice to meet you. I didn't have any trouble with the car at the Austin race, just me not being able to drive. Then at this race all I did was have trouble. I melted the left rear bearing block and had to wait on parts from the local hobby shop to be delivered to me and then broke in my only qualifier.

markp27

Thanks InitialD!

I'll get my order placed.

Anyone know the part number for the serpent cleaning gum - might aswell get that, too

Whilst I'm on making my order, anyone know anything else good I should get 950?

nizee

For about US$30 more, u get the Intergy Laser Tweak station. Ahh...the best thing, it came with is own case to keep tweak station!!! (battery included)

Get Michael Salven or any Serpent team driver to personal train you.

chachi

Thanks for your detailed responses. I appreciate it.

I tried going through all the steps again, and same problem. The clutch bell spins freely, but as tighten down the drive shaft screw/bolt, the clutch bell is unable to spin freely. If I do not tighten down the drive shaft bolt all the way, it feels like it should. I tried different amounts of shims, and it made no difference. Any insight?

markp27

Not sure what to suggest here. Maybe one of the bearings is bad? I would suggest to go to your dealer about this.
It is very difficult to judge what is wrong without seeing the car.

Sorry