InitialD

I was mentioning it in general that a rear solid axle will not give more off power steering. Some other setup like more rear droop is needed to compensate for the lack of off power steering.

Still, I find that to make the rear solid axle setup to work properly, some front overdrive is needed like what you've done.

Anybody know what's up with this 5th shock piston hole? I hear that they drill an additional hole. Sometimes I hear that the hole diameter is 1.2 mm etc. I assume this is larger than the stock holes. What is the current diameter of the piston holes on the stock shocks?

I also notice that when they run these modified pistons, they use thicker shock oils. My guess is that bigger holes but thicker shock oils will give about the same performance as smaller holes and lighter shock oils but the former may yield more consintant results.

I think this was discussed before. Laid down servo for the steering and throttle, adjustable front roll center and front belt tensioner, adjustable rear trackwidth and wheelbase... Just like what the 950R is today...

GoldFinger

This is stupid question :
How to make a quote displaying like this

quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Add more rear droop, believe me.. it would be there, even with front blue spring like mine. (still with no bar installed and 40F/37R shore)

I mean this part Originally posted by GoldFinger ???
Im dying for that..

InitialD

It automatically comes out when you press the "Quote" button on the right side of the post to reply. Just like this post that I'm making in reply to yours...

GoldFinger

Sorry, did not realize before...

(To: Mr "D", is it diplayed properly?)

As for Overdrive, how much do you ever try?
I mean maximum number until the front belt and 16T pulley easily let go.

johan

The new car will be called 710, from what ive understood...

InitialD

Spill the beans (and pictures) if you have them...

Any ETA?

InitialD

The quote was displayed but there was no "Originally posted by ..." displayed.

Anyway, I have not really played around with overdrive. However, indirectly, I've driven the car with about 8 mm overdrive difference before (i.e. front 4 mm larger than rear with 18T/22T/47T pulleys). The front belt and pulley still held up.

johan

Got no beans to spill But i think that teamdrivers has been informed about the details now, and that an announcement is innement.

The name implies that the car is based on new platform, and that "modern features", as the one you listed will be avabile.

Performance through Revolution

johan

The latest I read is that:

"...only the fuel tank is carried over from the 705."

EDIT: I dont think you should take that literally...

InitialD

You read somewhere? Where did you read from?

Ummm, from the sounds of only the 705 tank that is being carried forward to the new car, it does not sound so promising...

Hope you're right that it's not the case...

johan

Well the "source" was right about the 950R and the new tourers "no-show" at Chicago...


Hehe, kinda ironic that where were (is?) issues with the 705 fuel tank

Rapid Roy

Okay guys. I've been shadowing this thread for a while now. I can't wait any longer to replace my tired racer2. Untill the R40 came out, I had my heart set on a Serpent 705. Now I'm not sure. I started out with HPI so my heart say R40 but that 705 looks like it's got all of the stuff that I need already. Any comments from those of you who have both cars? Or shoud I try and wait for the new serpent.

Thanks

Schrijver99

taken from:
http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=9100

The car had Art's modified clutch, using the “Swiss Cheese” effect, with holes all over the clutch.

They didn’t use Art’s special shocks – Art has modified a set of shocks to give more damping (stiffer) on rebound

It had custom made adjustable sway bars on it, created to be softer so that the car would have more traction and turn better. XRAY front end parts were used up front - the steering blocks and universals, which are more efficient and don’t allow you to lose the dogbone when you hit something.


Anybody knows how to make these adjustments?

InitialD

That's a tough one Roy. At the moment, you've got about 4 to 6 months before the "new" Serpent tourer is expected to come out. If you just want to get the latest and greatest, then wait for the new Serpent tourer or other cars that will come out at that time. However, the danger I see when doing this is that there will always be a new tourer that you will want akin to a dog chansing it's own tail.

I do not have both cars but if you're impatient, you cannot go wrong with either the R40 or the 705. But if you get either cars, you need to worry about the gearing on the cars. Serpent cars are more suited for long tracks. The R40 from what I see is more for shorter tracks. Parts availability on your side at the local LHS will also influence your choice of car. And the last point to consider is the number of people that is driving either cars at the track. It is nice to know that you can depend on people who drive the car for advice, tips and even parts !

That being said, the 705 is nothing short of obselete. Yes, it may not have the lowest CG and some of the adjustability functions but in terms of performance, the 705 gets to the top again and again amongst other supposedly better cars.

You need to be warned though that the 705 is a difficult car to build CORRECTLY and perhaps the sweet spot for setup is narrow. Learning curve is steep with the 705 but once you hit the correct setup, there's no turning back for you. Don't worry about support as the website at mytsn is one of the best. Abundant setups to try and articles by team drivers giving tips and advise on the forum. If you're that sort of person that loves challenges and the 705 will reward you in all ways. The Serpent is a tough car. Tougher than any tourer out there.

InitialD

I would think by drilling holes in the clutch shoe, it will make it lighter. Better acceleration of the clutch shoe to hit the clutch bell.

I guess the holes need to be made NOT on the contact surface area of the clutchshoe with the clutchbell. This would lessen the grab surface area. I guess these holes are punched and made halfway at the back of the clutch shoe.

I don't know if I discovered this by mistake but the rear shocks I have recently made with the red shock bladder and foam insert, rebounds out very quickly when compressed.

I found this to be OK on my cars so far and I do not have any problems with rear traction.

I guess the trick to this is to make sure the shock oil is fuly filled up in the shock body.

I think this one is mentioned before. You need to machine the stock 1.5 mm sway bars to make it thinner. This need to be done carefully to make the sway bar thin the same all around.

This was done way back before the 705 came out. Ralph Burch used this in the 2002 US Nats and won it.

305210 Wheel Axle Front
or
305215 Spring Steel Front Wheel Axle
305230 Drive Shaft Coupling
305240 Drive Shaft Plastic Cap 3mm
305320 Drive Shaft Rear
309310 Wheel Mounting Hardware
302210 Steering Block Right
302220 Steering Block Left
309050 Ball-bearing 6700ZZ 10x15x4 (2)
307250 Pivot Ball 8.5mm - Spring Steel (2)

Now that the FC Steering blocks came out, it makes the XRay knuckles mod redundant. The only good part about the XRay mod now is the use of the UJ that does not rely on the dogbones. You need to dremel 0.5 mm from the inside of the steering knuckle so that the axle stub fits all the way through.