InitialD

Be careful that rear and front foam compounds are different even though they mention equal shore.

If we can assume hypothetically for a while that both rear and front foam compounds are the same, a wider front tire will make the front trackwidth wider than 200 mm. This would be illegal in some places. Handling wise, your steering input will be less responsive nimble in and out of the corner and chicanes but high speed cornering will be more stable.

InitialD

Yes it does. It all depends on your driving style and preference. A solid front axle will make the car have on power characteristics like the one way front diff on power. It will pull the car out of the corners very nicely. More importantly, a lot of people would prefer the solid front axle to the one way front diff when running on a small tight track because a solid front provides 4WD braking while front one way diff will only give you 2WD rear brakes. Also, you must remember that the solid front axle has the least rotating mass compared to the one way front diff and the full gear diff (the heaviest). I would think that straight line speed using a solid front axle will be the fastest.

The downside about solid front axle is that since both inner and outer sides off the wheels are locked during cornering, off power steering will be severely lacking unlike a front one way diff where the wheels are rotating independently from the drive train off power. However, you can always go back to a good setup to counter this problem and set the car up for more off power steering like increasing rear droop, reducing caster etc. Also tire scrub in the front will be high but nothing so serious that would be worst than rear solid axle tire wear...

superk

iTrader: (8)

I like my solid axle! just because..I can use the brakes!! LOL.. don't want to be a hack ...People will hate me!!

BOWTIE1

cool thanks so verry much for the info

InitialD

Well as they say, whatever floats your boat

On the subject of solid front axle, I have personally never tried one though I've seen and heard people complain that the aluminum spool is a little soft when you apply the grub screws from the drive adapters to lock on to the solid axle. The aluminum axle where the drive adapters lock on is weak and strip easily. I thought modellor mentioned that in one of his last post about the problems he faced...

Jump 7 Miles

Agree, no harm done. One thing I had seen on this forum (or any others) is that if you don’t agree on the local guru’s point of view or have a different one from everyone else, you are almost guarantee get flamed or get yelled at. Don’t really understand this.

I have a Veteq (a mistake, should had got the NT) with a G1-Pro on it, run it once in a while, but most of the time it just sitting on top of my desk, collecting dusts along with my old Kyosho off-road buggy Vanning, and the Kyosho Ultima electric buggy. I am afraid to run them because I am sure I can not find parts for them now. I stopped for a while due to personal reason and now trying to get back into the hobby. It is so hard to find parts for the Veteq and the parts are kind of expensive so I am considering to get a 1/10th scale touring car (limited budget now, have to "scale" down). Trying to decide soon, but there are more new cars coming out, so I guess I have switch back to procrastination mode.


WT

Jump 7 Miles

Sorry I got only 7 posts, but I have to start somewhere. Maybe I should start posting on the beginner’s thread until I have at least 200 posts before I even think about posting here?

Never expected my posts would created so much reactions and suspicions. I guess there is nothing I can do about this. I don’t think it is wrong to point out that it is most unlikely any Ni-Cd battery can survive 16 years of regular use on a R/C car (with all the heat and vibration around it). I wonder if I had made that claim on the forum instead of Modellor, what would you people say.

Cheers~~~

WT

Jump 7 Miles

I am not a cop.


WT

Jump 7 Miles

Times up, got to go. Please let me know what is going on.


WT

(I should have 10 posts by now)

InitialD

Ummm, welcome to the world of forums I've had my fair share of being lambasted. I perfectly understand you

WT, why not give up the Veteq? Are Serpent parts generally hard to come by where you're at? On line order? I'm definitely sure you'll get some money for the Veteq and get yourself a nice 1/10 tourer. 705? Perhaps whatever you end up with, get something which has parts support from the LHS.

BOWTIE1

where is the best place to get serpent parts?

InitialD

I think we have mentioned this before. You can check out RCCarinternational but with the high US to EURO conversion, I don't think that is the best place to buy at the moment. However, I would say that they have the best collection of anything Serpent. They are based in Holland but their shipping is pretty reasonable with a flat rate charge. Takes a little longer via normal mail depending on where you are.

Other online sites that are based in US are Bruckner Hobbies, Ashford Hobby and Winner's Circle RC Gas Hobby Shop. They are probably cheaper than RCCarinternational after the EURO to US dollar conversion.

BOWTIE1

InitialD
thanks u r so helpful .. as u migh know i am new to on-road thanks for your time

modellor

Yes. The alloy one is too soft. The setscrew wears a track right around the end of the axle and then just wears it completely down to a cone shape as it moves outwards in the corners. There is a way to delay this. If you look at the bottom of the setscrew you will notice that it is concave in shape. Grind the bottom to a flat shape. This will give a better grip on the axle and stop the setscrew from digging into the axle which starts the problem.

supra528

does ashford hobby ship to canada??