supra528

ok... a new problem... lol... how do i get the ball ends onto the anti roll bar? im to cautious right now wit the hammer cuz i dontt want to break anytying... i prob wont anyways... so could u guys tell me how u did it?

modellor

All I did was hold the bar in my hand and squeeze the ball into the eye with my fingers. Hurts the finger tips a bit but it wont destroy the plastic eye. Or you could squeeze it on with a pair of pliers.

supra528

ok... thanks a lot.. ill go do that

InitialD

With the new ball cups that come with the kit, one side will snap fit nicely with just the use of your fingers while the other side will be a bitch to snap the sway bar in. Just double check.

BSYDOR

I am not concerned with the math............
I was using the Hudy 1/10th scale setup board, So whatever the "blocks" are is the ride height I was using..........
Normally I start with 62mm tires and set the ride height to 5.5mm in the front and 6mm in the rear.

InitialD

What I do is I set the ride height on the Hudy gauges first to 7 mm for example by compressing / releasing the shock collars so that if I use a 62 mm tire, the actual final ride height will be 5 mm. Compress the shocks a few times so that they settle on rebound.

Next, once the ride height on the Hudy gauges is fixed, I put the ride height gauge under the chassis and make sure the chassis remains and rest unchanged on the ride height gauge at 7 mm. I do this to make sure that when I set the camber, the setting is based on the 7 mm ride height on the Hudy gauge. This is important as when ride height changes, camber also changes.

For the rear, I set the toe in first, then to set the camber, I make equal turns out / in on each pivot ball so that the toe-in remains unchanged.

BSYDOR

Hey Campbell,

Been there, done that. Made the rear traction worse.
Do you think it might be because of my chassis is tweeked,
I have a .5mm difference from the centerline of the front wheels
to the nose of the car.

InitialD

Yup Again, try using front sway bar at the softest setting, use Nitro Shoes 40 shore on your current setup. If you're getting too much off throttle steering (which I think you would), reduce rear droop from +4 to maybe +6. Fine tune with the front sway bar.

InitialD

As long as the bend happens before the 1st front screw that locks the front bearing block, you car will not be tweaked. The front part of the chassis usually bends at the weak point, which is at the 1st front screw that locks the front bearing blocks.

BSYDOR

Thanks for the info,
I'll try your suggestion, nothing to lose but to go faster.

InitialD

Not a problem. Just thought that I found it strange that a rear droop of +4 is required... It's been a long time since I saw that on an Impulse / 705. If you're at that setting, it's either you're using front gear diffs or solid axle.

BSYDOR

One way in front and a ball diff (47/22) in the rear.
I have played with the droop and with my set-up it felt
better with more

taz5176

hi guys
do u guys do the ride height 1st or last?

i did my ride height 1st & adjusted my camber as well, i found tat after adjusting my camber, my ride height increases. so i reduce my ride height & my camber increases again. is this normal?

InitialD

My guess also could be that you've too much rear traction on the car with the spacers off...

InitialD

You must set the ride height first before doing other settings on the car. I find it strange that the ride height changes after setting the camber...

Set the ride height on the Hudy gauges if you have one. The Hudy gauge ride height is based on a 66 mm diameter tire. If you want to use a 62 mm diameter tire and you want a ride height of 5 mm on it, then you need to set the ride height of 7 mm (66-62 = 4, 4/2 = 2, 2 + 5 = 7) when the car is on the Hudy gauges. The 7 mm here is what is called as setup ride height. This measurement is often referred in the setup sheets in mytsn.

Try out the suggestion I mentioned earlier. Fix the ride height of the car at 7 mm (or any other ride height intended) when the car is on the Hudy gauges by letting the chassis of the car sit on the ride height block at the 7 mm mark (or any other ride height intended). This way when you set the cambers, you base it on a fixed ride height.